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e305 motor upgrade

Discussion in 'Phantom 2 Vision + Discussion' started by shade emry, Mar 19, 2016.

  1. shade emry

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  2. shade emry

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    Well, I pulled the trigger and bought them..I guess I will write up a review on them once i have them installed.
     
  3. jnshane

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    Hope the new motors, ESC's and props show a signifcant and useful enhancement in erformance. I believe the battery information is indicating that the motors and ESC's are compatible with 3s (three cell) and 4s (four cell) batteries.
     
    shade emry likes this.
  4. shade emry

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    I will do a before and after shot with 3rd person youtube footage of the drone as well as drone footage and compare side by side. :) im real hopeful about them and had to much motor play and drag to begin with. with sealed bearing that start leaking, thats when its time to either replace the motor or the bearing. in my case ill change the bearing and keep the motors as backups so long as they pass a load test on my bench. So have to replace the motors, why not by the ones from DJI? they even give the gain adjustments needed for phantoms :).
     
  5. shade emry

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    Ok, so stuffing these into a phantom while keeping the on board lights which are built into the ESC's, was a hella a chore...let me explain.

    So order arrived, awesome new box. WAY to much power cord, it is very obvious this is meant for the f450 frame if anything. So the esc's are in a pretty plastic container..which i tried to fit into the phantom and close the shell..:

    20160330_193010[1].jpg



    The shell of course didn't fit, these are glued together so I used a hobby knife and gently pulled them apart just in case I crash this so bad that i buy a f550 frame and want the pretty housing containers.....

    So after mounting and keeping the old ESC's connected, as well adding the new ones just without the motors, my phantom did the red light flashes of death..Ok, so i found a guy that reversed engineered the ESC'S and even fabricated schematics from them, and looked at them closely.. the 4 pin connector that connects to the ESC's, original ones have 4 wires, in order the first 2 orange controls the duty cycle, or the signal used to increase or decrease motor speed based on your control stick input...so if the ESC is powered i thought, that same signal could cause a failure as the motors not connected and the naza would go nuts as it wouldn't see voltage being pulled properly...so i cut those 2 wires. the brown one is for ground, and the NEXT WIRE controls the LED signals. keeping those 2 wires connected as well as supplying power to the ESC, fooled the naza controller into thinking all was well and its unique firmware it has for led control was responding properly..YAY i still have the phantom lights! with that solved, i left them screwd in, put a piece of electrical tape over the board to prevent shorts and stuffed the new ESC's for the E305 kit in their.

    Doesn't fit. :( time to cut them out.
    20160330_193133[1].jpg


    Electrical tape it.., wire in new ESC that has been pulled from the Pretty plastic box..
    20160330_224137[1].jpg

    top view:
    20160330_193238[1].jpg

    Side view:
    20160330_193247[1].jpg
    make sure the motors are turning how its illustrated here..
    20160330_193444[1].jpg

    Where you see the ESC's, the position of the motors on the quad are important, I am talking about the ESC's. you have to unplug the 4 pin connector and plug in 4 separate wires now to the individual channels 1-6. 5 and 6 are not used, however 1-4 are. match the spin direction that's on your top shell and use the strip markers in the top shell to mark the forward direction. this is VERY important or the quad will do a flip over at takeoff. Use the quad rotor x diagram example to connect your ESC's.

    20160330_193402[1].jpg

    Diagram of the p2 naza controller.. its not the same, as the normal naza has diffrent firmware on it then the phantom 2 versions.. this was to stop the theft of the older p1 naza v2 upgrades from lite to full version.

    20160330_193413[1].jpg

    You will use m1-m4 slots on your unit..



    CUT THESE FIRST 2 WIRES OR PULL THEM OUT OF THE CONNECTOR SO YOU CAN REUSE THEM< IF YOU FAIL TO DO THIS YOUR COPTER WILL NOT START. DO THIS TO ALL 4 ESC's!!! the original ESC's! those first 2 control the motor to the old esc and tells the naza if their their or not. the 3 one thats brown is ground and the one after that is the LED signal wire which is used to control the lights status.

    Modded wires..PNG









    As for the gains, I used default gain values. I am not knowledgeable yet in gains, however I am sure they need to be adjusted. after you do this mod, be sure to hard calibrate your imu compass combo. the sensor on the landing gear via this method:



    Phantom IMU Compass Outside Of Normal Values
    Plug the drone into your computer using the USB cable and open the NAZA flight control software and look at the Compass values under the tools menu. Your values for Compass should be in the range of -300 to +300 on the Y value.

    The Compass Mode value should be in the 1400 to 1800 range. A reset of the IMU compass on your Phantom needs to take place for example if you Compass Y value was at say -600 and the mode was over the 1800 range. Sometimes the compass Mode value can be right up in the 5000 or 6000 range.

    When your IMU values are too far out of range, the calibration process cannot fix this. You need to first bring the values down to where the calibration process can fix.

    Phantom Drivers, Firmware And NAZA Flight Control System
    It is well recommended to have the lastest DJI drivers, firmware and flight control system. This can prevent the problem happening in the first place and it will also assist greatly in the reset and re-calibration of the Phantom IMU compass. The latest NAZA software has an IMU Calibration section under the tools menu in the software.

    Procedure To Reset And Re-Calibrate The IMU Compass On Your Phantom
    The below procedure can be completed without being plugged into your NAZA Flight control system. However, it is good to be able to see on screen the Compass Y and Mode values becoming normal again.

    1) Power cycle the battery on your Phantom. Remove the battery, wait a few seconds and put it back in.

    2) Using a relatively strong magnet, orbit or circle around the location of the IMU compass on your quadcopter. Keep circling and moving the magnet in different directions, up and down and around the compass without touching the compass. Do this for about 20 to 30 seconds then stop.

    Rotate your Phantom in the horizontal position a couple of time and if you are viewing the IMU Compass values in the software you may see some improvement.

    Keep repeating the magnet orbiting until the values come back into a close enough range where the compass calibration process will work.

    If you are out in the field, you can also do the above procedure. Orbit around with the magnet then try to calibrate and keep doing this a number of times until the calibration works. It may take 5 or more tries.

    3) After orbiting with the magnet around the compass, then remove and put back in the battery of your Phantom. Then try to calibrate the compass. If still getting the yellow and red flashing, repeat the process.

    4) When you receive the green light the compass is back in normal working range.

    5) If you have been resetting the IMU compass inside a building, then it is good idea to do one final compass calibration outside in the open.