550 Pilot's lounge
- Thread starter OI Photography
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Just charged up my bad battery #1, and it took in 7042 mah. So, the out percentage and the rapid voltage loss, don't add up with the Mah put back into the battery; meaning, Cell 1 is damaged.
The manufacturer now has pictures and the battery log files for this battery, hopefully they'll make this right. But this battery will never fly again...bummer.
The manufacturer now has pictures and the battery log files for this battery, hopefully they'll make this right. But this battery will never fly again...bummer.
Yes it is-and I have it a negative 14cm now. Also changed my 1st level warning to 14.2 volts-just to I can watch this other battery-to make sure it doesn't drop as fast at Battery #1 did Today.ElGuano said:
Went from 14.3 to 13.8 in about 20 seconds. Normally-that should have taken at least 2 or 3 minutes...so that's how a dying cell acts? Now I know.......
Tonight, after rewiring my f550, I got a chance to fly it and test out my LED configuration...
I opted for connecting my Retracts and Cooper UAV LED's together on the only channel left on my Futaba 8J...
As you can see, lowering my retracts turn off my LED's, and raising the retracts turns them on... NOT GOOD!
I'm not happy with this configuration. Until I get another Transmitter (12 or 14 channel), this will have to do.
You can also see that I have white LED strips in front, and blue strips in the back... I bought them off a guy on eBay, and I can program them in 5 different modes: strobe, pulse, breath, flash, solid... also 8 levels of brightness. They turn on when I connect the battery (because again, I have no other channels to switch them on with).
It was pretty windy tonight, as you can hear... and the higher I flew the worse control I had (not seen in the video)...
I need more practice...
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8xYv7wNIxM[/youtube]
I opted for connecting my Retracts and Cooper UAV LED's together on the only channel left on my Futaba 8J...
As you can see, lowering my retracts turn off my LED's, and raising the retracts turns them on... NOT GOOD!
I'm not happy with this configuration. Until I get another Transmitter (12 or 14 channel), this will have to do.
You can also see that I have white LED strips in front, and blue strips in the back... I bought them off a guy on eBay, and I can program them in 5 different modes: strobe, pulse, breath, flash, solid... also 8 levels of brightness. They turn on when I connect the battery (because again, I have no other channels to switch them on with).
It was pretty windy tonight, as you can hear... and the higher I flew the worse control I had (not seen in the video)...
I need more practice...
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8xYv7wNIxM[/youtube]
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Not good? Looks pretty sweet to me! I can see why you wouldn't want the side-facing lights to go off with the gear down, as you're more likely to be eye-level with the hex and unable to see the flashing lights on the bottom. But the effect is really nice.
Well the retracts and the lights do all look great...when they all stay on that is.
Clear up my confusion if possible...how are the lights under the arms wired differently than the ones at the tips? Are the ones under the arms on 12v instead? I was just figuring there might be some way to let them feed off the same source until you can get more channels on the radio.
Speaking of which, here's a good place to start reading to get an idea of what the Taranis I mentioned is like: http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-taran ... combo.html
Lots of cool bells and whistles you'll see described there, but it boils down to three main things (for me anyway):
-Flexibility. Anything you can conceivably want your controller to do, you can do it with the Taranis. 16 channels out of the box, 6x 3-way switches, 2x 2-way switches, 2 pots, 2 sliders, and the easiest programming you can get (see below).
-GUI. Connect the Taranis to a PC and you can do all the programming via a simple but powerful GUI, which will let you simulate/test all settings before putting on the controller, as well as burn/edit configuration files in just a few clicks. Open Source Firmware FTW.
-Value. C'mon...all that, plus telemetry capability, with a receiver, for less than $250. Also, every single individual component of the Taranis (from the shell to the labeling stickers to the LCD display to the switches) is available for purchase...inexpensively...and easily user-replaceable, if you ever want or need to do so.
The list goes on, but those are the most compelling arguments for me. And we haven't even started to discuss telemetry or other goodies...yet
Clear up my confusion if possible...how are the lights under the arms wired differently than the ones at the tips? Are the ones under the arms on 12v instead? I was just figuring there might be some way to let them feed off the same source until you can get more channels on the radio.
Speaking of which, here's a good place to start reading to get an idea of what the Taranis I mentioned is like: http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-taran ... combo.html
Lots of cool bells and whistles you'll see described there, but it boils down to three main things (for me anyway):
-Flexibility. Anything you can conceivably want your controller to do, you can do it with the Taranis. 16 channels out of the box, 6x 3-way switches, 2x 2-way switches, 2 pots, 2 sliders, and the easiest programming you can get (see below).
-GUI. Connect the Taranis to a PC and you can do all the programming via a simple but powerful GUI, which will let you simulate/test all settings before putting on the controller, as well as burn/edit configuration files in just a few clicks. Open Source Firmware FTW.
-Value. C'mon...all that, plus telemetry capability, with a receiver, for less than $250. Also, every single individual component of the Taranis (from the shell to the labeling stickers to the LCD display to the switches) is available for purchase...inexpensively...and easily user-replaceable, if you ever want or need to do so.
The list goes on, but those are the most compelling arguments for me. And we haven't even started to discuss telemetry or other goodies...yet
ElGuano said:OI Photography said:The list goes on, but those are the most compelling arguments for me. And we haven't even started to discuss telemetry or other goodies...yet
I think I'm probably convinced
The XJT transmitter module in the Taranis (same as their stand-alone XJT module) is probably one of the best available on any non-astronomically-priced 2.4GHz brand, it's been rock solid for me at the admittedly limited ranges I've tested and I've read some pretty impressive reports from others. The only mod I've done is to replace the controller's stock antenna with an SMA connector and a 5db antenna....others with that same unamplified config have hit well in excess of 5km on the stock X8R Rx.
Oh, almost forgot...also has fully-programmable voice alerts for telemetry and controller states.
Yes, not good when you are landing and the retracts go down and your lights go off... I flew it for another 5 minutes... As I landed in the dark, it tricks your eyes when the LED's go off...... I'd rather have them on until I turn them off...ElGuano said:
Yes... They work on 12v... The strips are hard-wired (soldered) to my power source...OI Photography said:
I think I'm sold also... Have to read up more, but what I see I like... I thought the Taranis you were using was a $500.00 plus unit... I almost bought a (used) Futaba T8FG SUPER for $325.00 (most are going for $450 and up - I think they are discontinued)... I liked the fact that they had so many 3 way switches on it.Speaking of which, here's a good place to start reading to get an idea of what the Taranis I mentioned is like: http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-taran ... combo.html
Lots of cool bells and whistles you'll see described there, but it boils down to three main things (for me anyway):
-Flexibility. Anything you can conceivably want your controller to do, you can do it with the Taranis. 16 channels out of the box, 6x 3-way switches, 2x 2-way switches, 2 pots, 2 sliders, and the easiest programming you can get (see below).
-GUI. Connect the Taranis to a PC and you can do all the programming via a simple but powerful GUI, which will let you simulate/test all settings before putting on the controller, as well as burn/edit configuration files in just a few clicks. Open Source Firmware FTW.
-Value. C'mon...all that, plus telemetry capability, with a receiver, for less than $250. Also, every single individual component of the Taranis (from the shell to the labeling stickers to the LCD display to the switches) is available for purchase...inexpensively...and easily user-replaceable, if you ever want or need to do so.
The list goes on, but those are the most compelling arguments for me. And we haven't even started to discuss telemetry or other goodies...yet
Does the Taranis feel cheap or like a toy? I had a Spectrum DX5e for my XAircraft 450Pro a few years back, and I thought it was cheaply made compared to a Futaba...
For $250 I think it might be the deal I'm looking for... Thanks, OI...
EDIT: I just ordered a Taranis... I did my research and I'm happy (or I hope to be) with the results I have seen...
Thanks Again!
P.J.
It doesn't feel "cheap"...but I won't lie and say it feels like the definitively-Japanese premium electronic components you've been holding either. I would describe it as on the high end of Chinese quality though, it's solid and the important parts (gimbals and electronics) are first-rate. It's also lighter than you'd expect, which lends to the perceptible difference between this and a Futaba, but feel confident it's solid gear. Fit and finish are good, but aesthetics earn no more than a 6 or 7. Very easy (and very common) to paint or hydro-dip the shell to flavor as desired.
The X8R Rx that usually comes with the Taranis is perfect for the 550 and other fully custom builds. If you want to swap your Phantom Rx though I'd suggest the X4R instead. FrSky just released it and I put it in my Phantom already. Still gives you up to 16 channels over S-bus like the X8R, it just limits you to 3 extra traditional outputs on top of that instead of the X8R's 8 ports. Much smaller casing and footprint though, $8 cheaper, and I doubt many Phantoms need more than 3 channels on top of S-bus. Still works with all their telemetry sensors too:
http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-x4r-sb.html
@ElG: I've been saving one last enticement to convince you once I had you this close. Just imagine all the stuff you could do with this: http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-sp2uart-2.html.
@PJ: Here's another option that may work for you in the meantime: pull the control pin out of the servo connector from those lights and tape it out of the way for now (don't clip it off, just pull the pin out). Then connect again to your Rx on the T channel. With luck, your switch will default to "on" when no signal is on the control lead, and the lights will then just stay on all the time.
The X8R Rx that usually comes with the Taranis is perfect for the 550 and other fully custom builds. If you want to swap your Phantom Rx though I'd suggest the X4R instead. FrSky just released it and I put it in my Phantom already. Still gives you up to 16 channels over S-bus like the X8R, it just limits you to 3 extra traditional outputs on top of that instead of the X8R's 8 ports. Much smaller casing and footprint though, $8 cheaper, and I doubt many Phantoms need more than 3 channels on top of S-bus. Still works with all their telemetry sensors too:
http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-x4r-sb.html
@ElG: I've been saving one last enticement to convince you once I had you this close. Just imagine all the stuff you could do with this: http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-sp2uart-2.html.
@PJ: Here's another option that may work for you in the meantime: pull the control pin out of the servo connector from those lights and tape it out of the way for now (don't clip it off, just pull the pin out). Then connect again to your Rx on the T channel. With luck, your switch will default to "on" when no signal is on the control lead, and the lights will then just stay on all the time.
Well, I finally got all the little brackets I needed to mount the rest of my ESC's. So, they're almost done-just need to sit down and start doing the bullet connectors on the black aluminum wires I have-and connect those all up.
Also-I received the Anti-interference filter. I fitted it-and can see zero improvement in the video.
So-I need help; does anyone know what I can wrap the video wires in, to isolate them from the electrical? interference I'm getting?
I don't get any of this in the Phantom 2-it's crystal clear.
Also-my "little pig" gained some weight. With the 12" props, AUW is now 3400 grams!!(was 3330 grams). Each little zip tie, piece of tape, filter and brackets all add up.
Going to do some more gain adjusting Tomorrow if it's not windy. Super disappointed in the video feed. I know I won't get any sort of decent range with it. I can still see the video-it's just not clear...I get some rolling lines, and basically what looks like electrical interference throughout the picture-making it harder to navigate the further I go.
Also-I received the Anti-interference filter. I fitted it-and can see zero improvement in the video.
So-I need help; does anyone know what I can wrap the video wires in, to isolate them from the electrical? interference I'm getting?
I don't get any of this in the Phantom 2-it's crystal clear.
Also-my "little pig" gained some weight. With the 12" props, AUW is now 3400 grams!!(was 3330 grams). Each little zip tie, piece of tape, filter and brackets all add up.
Going to do some more gain adjusting Tomorrow if it's not windy. Super disappointed in the video feed. I know I won't get any sort of decent range with it. I can still see the video-it's just not clear...I get some rolling lines, and basically what looks like electrical interference throughout the picture-making it harder to navigate the further I go.
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Electrical interference has to be approached systematically. You can try wrapping some wires in grounded steel weave or foil lining, but the best way is probably to tear the video system off, run it independently to verify the signal is clean, and slowly add it back to the MR to see what point you get interference. You may need a less noisy power source, switch out becs, etc.
And weight of course, that's a whole new ball of wax. I haven't even started counting the grams on mine, but it'll be a full teardown when I do.
And weight of course, that's a whole new ball of wax. I haven't even started counting the grams on mine, but it'll be a full teardown when I do.
Thanks. I don't want to really tear down the whole video system. But, I'm going flying this morning, so I'll determine just how usable it is.ElGuano said:
Don't have a BEC-it's running on 4S and everything else goes through the PMU V2-which sits on the bottom of the stack, with iOSD above PMU, and GCU above iOSD mini. It was basically this way in the Phantoms-or they were close enough, that I didn't think it would matter to stack them.
Yea-the grams just start sneaking up on you.....if you need to add 1 thing to all arms, that's times six. So, a little 10 grams part on each arm=60 grams, or 1 minutes of flight time gone.
Another F550 takes to the sky.
I just finished a somewhat abbreviated first flight on my F550. The flight was abbreviated because a couple of the isolation mounts popped on my gimbal mount and it was relying on the safety tie wraps to stay attached. After about 5 minutes of flight I was still showing 70% on my RMRC 8000 mAh pack so will hopefully be 10 + minutes for overall flight duration. I have the E300 ESCs and motors and a Neewar landing gear system. My all up weight is around 2.4kg. The 550 was handling a 7-10mph wind with no difficulty and the flight went off with no major problems (aside from the isolation mount).
To record this occasion I was using my Phantom FC40 camera strapped into my gimbal because my Gopro clone is on a slow boat from China. I'll try to clean up the video a bit and see if I can post something to youtube to add here.
Edit - Here is the YouTube video of my first flight
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXMnzrgMsDw[/youtube]
Doug M
I just finished a somewhat abbreviated first flight on my F550. The flight was abbreviated because a couple of the isolation mounts popped on my gimbal mount and it was relying on the safety tie wraps to stay attached. After about 5 minutes of flight I was still showing 70% on my RMRC 8000 mAh pack so will hopefully be 10 + minutes for overall flight duration. I have the E300 ESCs and motors and a Neewar landing gear system. My all up weight is around 2.4kg. The 550 was handling a 7-10mph wind with no difficulty and the flight went off with no major problems (aside from the isolation mount).
To record this occasion I was using my Phantom FC40 camera strapped into my gimbal because my Gopro clone is on a slow boat from China. I'll try to clean up the video a bit and see if I can post something to youtube to add here.
Edit - Here is the YouTube video of my first flight
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXMnzrgMsDw[/youtube]
Doug M
Well, went out this Morning to what was supposed to be foretasted as calm winds. But-as I backed out of the driveway, I saw the flag straight out, and I knew we had at least 10mph!! Great!!
Just what I didn't need-another windy day to try and dial in my gains.
So, I flew anyways, 2 batteries; flight time, didn't keep track...still wobbles around the P/R axis...bad at times. But, I did reset my Yaw gains from 300 down to 200...didn't seem to make a difference. Tried to adjust Basic vertical-no difference, left it at 225.
Basic Attitude p/r are both at 100 and doing fine.
So, I'm going back to the 11X5 E-Graupner props. those were the ones we first flew after the rebuild, but before putting on the FPV gear. And-the seem for the most part to be the most "stable".
At this point, I'm so frustrated with the gains-and the absolute inability to get anything stable, I'm about to give up. Something just isn't right...and I can get "close". But-this aircraft is so big and heavy, that it needs to move around a lot when it's windy. Even my P2 wobbled Today.
I've checked engine alignment, looked for anything loose or just not quite right-and everything checks out as normal.
And-to throw Salt into the wound-I lost my Lipo Checker somewhere into thin air. I had it in my hand one minute, and the next-when I get home, it's gone. Went back out to the field-no where to be found. Looked through all my boxes and every little spot it could hide-and it's still gone!! So now I'm really pissed. $20 bucks gone-because of my lack of organizational skill, or just getting old, and forgetting where I put it....but it's definitely not here in my house, or my car.
And, I always throw things into my rubbermaid tubs...never leaving anything to chance. I just can't believe I lost it.......hell, I haven't even lost a pen or a pair of glasses in so many years, I've lost count.
OH, and the anti-interference filter didn't NOT improve the video at all.......
EDIT: Found my Lipo Checker. I had removed my scale from the box when I got home and put it in the closet-and right next to it, was the Lipo Checker. Getting old sucks!!!
@Ol; when you tin the wires to put the bullets on-do you twist the wires first? also, do you hold the soldering iron on the back side of the wire, and draw the solder through the wires that way?
I'm getting ready to do bullets....so I'm a little unsure of how to tin the wires.
Thanks
Just what I didn't need-another windy day to try and dial in my gains.
So, I flew anyways, 2 batteries; flight time, didn't keep track...still wobbles around the P/R axis...bad at times. But, I did reset my Yaw gains from 300 down to 200...didn't seem to make a difference. Tried to adjust Basic vertical-no difference, left it at 225.
Basic Attitude p/r are both at 100 and doing fine.
So, I'm going back to the 11X5 E-Graupner props. those were the ones we first flew after the rebuild, but before putting on the FPV gear. And-the seem for the most part to be the most "stable".
At this point, I'm so frustrated with the gains-and the absolute inability to get anything stable, I'm about to give up. Something just isn't right...and I can get "close". But-this aircraft is so big and heavy, that it needs to move around a lot when it's windy. Even my P2 wobbled Today.
I've checked engine alignment, looked for anything loose or just not quite right-and everything checks out as normal.
And-to throw Salt into the wound-I lost my Lipo Checker somewhere into thin air. I had it in my hand one minute, and the next-when I get home, it's gone. Went back out to the field-no where to be found. Looked through all my boxes and every little spot it could hide-and it's still gone!! So now I'm really pissed. $20 bucks gone-because of my lack of organizational skill, or just getting old, and forgetting where I put it....but it's definitely not here in my house, or my car.
And, I always throw things into my rubbermaid tubs...never leaving anything to chance. I just can't believe I lost it.......hell, I haven't even lost a pen or a pair of glasses in so many years, I've lost count.
OH, and the anti-interference filter didn't NOT improve the video at all.......
EDIT: Found my Lipo Checker. I had removed my scale from the box when I got home and put it in the closet-and right next to it, was the Lipo Checker. Getting old sucks!!!
@Ol; when you tin the wires to put the bullets on-do you twist the wires first? also, do you hold the soldering iron on the back side of the wire, and draw the solder through the wires that way?
I'm getting ready to do bullets....so I'm a little unsure of how to tin the wires.
Thanks
havasuphoto said:
Yep, the wire strands may already have a natural twist inside the insulation and if so just twist in that direction. If not, I just pinch the tip and twist clockwise. This helps keep the exposed bundle of strands neat and in one bunch.
The way you describe it is just want you need to do...hold the hot tip to the end of the exposed strands and let it heat them a bit, then touch the solder to the end of the strands but 180deg around the circumference from the iron's tip. When the wire is hot enough it will draw the solder up the strands, you want to add just enough that it stops where the insulation starts. Rotate the tip around the circumference of the strands once and repeat those steps if necessary to insure all the strands absorb solder (not just the outer ones).
thanks-found out that the solder i had was too thick, so i went and got a thinner strand-did 3, burnt the bejesus out of one of my fingers.
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