Much has been said (and done) here about the P2V+s WiFi module and the heating issues.
That is only half of the equation. The Range Extender is the other half.
Both units use the same Atheros chipset, operate at the same power, and have the same issues.
The extender board, being in a small box with no ventilation, may be even more prone to overheating.
My RE gets quite warm on the outside, and that's just convection heating from the board to the case.
I will not get into the disassembly to the board level here; this is for meant for those who already know that process.
If you do not know how to disassemble the units, there are threads here as well as YouTube videos showing how this is done.
in both units, there is a ~.020" gap between the output stage ICs and the RFI shield/heatsink.
Some have filled this gap with Thermal Compound. This is better, but by no means ideal.
Aluminum is a much better conductor of heat than TC; the compound is intended to fill small air gaps, not as a heat sink in and of itself.
I believe this is a better solution.
Use household aluminum foil, and fold it and/or add single layers to get a ~.020" thick shim a bit larger than in the images below
(My foil is .002" thick, yours may vary)
Put a tiny dab of TC between layers to stick them together...
If you have any doubt, go thicker rather than thinner, as this will help to mechanically retain the shim between the ICs and the shield.
Cut the resulting shim to final size.
Make a paper mask larger than the shim and make cutouts for the 2 ICs. This will insulate the shim from the board components.
Place the mask on the board, apply TC to the 2 chips, and press the shim into place. Add TC to the top of the shim, and reinstall the RFI shield/heatsink
In informal tests with an IR gun, the module's case got hotter quicker, which tells me more heat is getting out of the chips faster.
All else being equal, hotter case=cooler ICs.
Bird WiFi Board:
Range Extender WiFi board:
That is only half of the equation. The Range Extender is the other half.
Both units use the same Atheros chipset, operate at the same power, and have the same issues.
The extender board, being in a small box with no ventilation, may be even more prone to overheating.
My RE gets quite warm on the outside, and that's just convection heating from the board to the case.
I will not get into the disassembly to the board level here; this is for meant for those who already know that process.
If you do not know how to disassemble the units, there are threads here as well as YouTube videos showing how this is done.
in both units, there is a ~.020" gap between the output stage ICs and the RFI shield/heatsink.
Some have filled this gap with Thermal Compound. This is better, but by no means ideal.
Aluminum is a much better conductor of heat than TC; the compound is intended to fill small air gaps, not as a heat sink in and of itself.
I believe this is a better solution.
Use household aluminum foil, and fold it and/or add single layers to get a ~.020" thick shim a bit larger than in the images below
(My foil is .002" thick, yours may vary)
Put a tiny dab of TC between layers to stick them together...
If you have any doubt, go thicker rather than thinner, as this will help to mechanically retain the shim between the ICs and the shield.
Cut the resulting shim to final size.
Make a paper mask larger than the shim and make cutouts for the 2 ICs. This will insulate the shim from the board components.
Place the mask on the board, apply TC to the 2 chips, and press the shim into place. Add TC to the top of the shim, and reinstall the RFI shield/heatsink
In informal tests with an IR gun, the module's case got hotter quicker, which tells me more heat is getting out of the chips faster.
All else being equal, hotter case=cooler ICs.
Bird WiFi Board:
Range Extender WiFi board:
