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Where to buy a new WiFi Module?

Discussion in 'Phantom 2 Vision + Discussion' started by rbhamilton, Dec 1, 2014.

  1. rbhamilton

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    Well it looks like it happened AGAIN! A couple of weeks ago I used the Arctic Silver on my WiFi but it looks like the darn thing still failed. Today it's dead as a door nail.

    I'll go through the forums and check all the possibilities and rebind and whatever but it's not looking good. I suspect I'll have to buy another one.

    If I'm going to replace this thing AGAIN I want to make sure to get one of the new V3 ones. I wrote to Daves Discount Motors but he hasn't seen the new WiFi Modules with the holes in the case.

    So any suggestions on where a guy could pick up the new V3 WiFi module?

    ===================================================================

    Update - I was just about to order another WiFi module. Then reading on another thread I thought ... maybe it's the 4 pin cable??? I grabbed some surgical tweezers. I pinched the 4 pin connector between the camera and the drone body. I carefully wiggled it loose. Plugged it back in and presto I'm back in business.

    I also... ahem... plugged my WiFi Repeater in to charge (haven't done that in a while). I know it was the 4 pin cable because if it was charging up the battery then I'm just too stupid to live.

    Thanks guys! You saved me $200. Well done.
     
  2. flyNfrank

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    Two thumbs Up......Good to know info.
     
  3. eyecon82

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    Awesome. Looks like you did save your wifi module, but probably loosened that in the process. I was unable to recover my wifi module. Fortunately, Amazon made right and let me exchange mine for a v3 after providing pictures as proof as to they updated critical components and acknowledged known issues
     
  4. eyecon82

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    Well, they didn't let me exchange. They offered refund, so I just paid the difference which was like $100
     
  5. rbhamilton

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    So any news on anybody selling the upgraded WiFi modules? I'm still thinking I'd like to have a supplier on speed-dial just in case.
     
  6. rbhamilton

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    All you smart people and nobody knows? Or they just aren't selling it yet?
     
  7. Skynet1

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    by rbhamilton ยป Sun Dec 07, 2014 11:08 am

    All you smart people and nobody knows? Or they just aren't selling it yet?


    They, (DJI) may want to exhaust their inventory of older style Wi-Fi modules first before formally releasing the new and improved version to dealers.
    Then they can then wait for those older units to burn up and catch you on the rebound. Just good business sense, or NOT.
     
  8. CapnBob

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    Well, I opened up my original WiFi module to properly heat sink the components, and decided that the case needed ventilation even after the mods.
    I used a small drill bit and swiss-cheesed the housing a bit using dji's new module as a guideline.
    I didn't put in as many holes as they did, but the housing seems to run considerably cooler now.

    An ounce of prevention..


    dji module..
     

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  9. RichWest

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    Based on the V3 picture posted weeks ago, would the module require the addition of cable chokes to protect from RF?

    EDIT: Wow, CapnBob, holding back on us? Have you had any issues related to Radio interference with all the new holes? Did you drill holes off the bottom cover as well???? I didn't have the b_lls to do your mod without further info....more please!

    Looks like baby swiss to me...
     
  10. CapnBob

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    There are no issues as far as I can tell at this time. When you keep the vent holes small, following aperture theory, they are so far below cutoff @ 2.5GHz that they won't radiate at this frequency. Your microwave oven also works at this same frequency, and that hole grid in the window is what keeps the RF inside from getting out and cooking you. It is also the principle behind he Faraday Cage.

    A wavelength @ 2.45 GHz is 4.8". Where you will start to radiate is when a discontinuity approaches a large fraction of a wavelength, which is why it is imperative to tape up the parting seam all around the WiFi housing. This is also why the door seal is so important in a microwave oven.

    I had also done a full GPS EMI shield months ago using 3M copper tape with conductive adhesive. I am a retired RF & Antenna engineer, and have much experience in these matters.

    If you have a smaller drill bit, use it. This was simply the smallest I had on hand.

    Always burnish the edges of the tape tightly, as the "conductive" adhesive is actually copper particles embedded in the p.s.a. They must be forced into contact. Do not reuse the tape once it has been removed. It will not make good contact with the tape below it,, and you can end up with a slot radiator where the tape is overlapped.

    I'm sure that the ferrites used on the newest units are not a result of specific RF leakage from the Wi-Fi unit as much as a general cleanup of stray signals that should have been done at inception.

    My Copper shield:
     

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  11. msinger

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    CapnBob, any reason you chose copper tape over aluminum foil tape?
     
  12. RichWest

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    CapnBob, you are the man! Great explanation for all the details related to RF and this mod. Again, did you drill any holes on the lower cover?
     
  13. CapnBob

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    msinger, I chose 3M 1181 copper tape for the very reason that it has conductive particles in the adhesive. We used to prototype antennas with the stuff, and it is the only thing that works. One Time. . as I said, once you remove it, do not reuse it. Toss it and use a new piece. Normal adhesive is a dielectric, and non-conductive. if you sandwich an insulating dielectric between two metal plates, you isolate the plates electrically, and you get a capacitor, and perhaps a slot radiator.. It is imperative in a shielding situation that the material looks contiguous to electric current. Even a small slit can develop a voltage potential across it and become a radiator.

    You can get 1181 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... 81&_sop=15

    RichWest, I have not put holes in the lower cover. I am not ruling it out, as I think it would help airflow with the "chimney effect".
    All I have seen is the single pic of the top of the new WiFi unit. Does anyone know if the bottom has vent holes as well?
     
  14. Skynet1

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    Nicely done,Bob. Hopefully these steps further enhance the life of the module, and does not interfere with GPS as you have mentioned.

    POI, I have decided to simply open up some of the existing vents by removing some of the plastic ribs in the present air vents located on the upper portion of the shell at this time, this to hopefully improve air flow throughout the inner cabin, and over the various electronics incl. the Wi-fi module, which has been of concern.
    I realize this in itself does not substantially address the real issue, as it relates to heat generated within the Wi-Fi unit and a means of efficiently reducing that heat factor but simply thought it may help some.
    I've been flying the quad this way for the last few weeks and don't believe it has altered the model aerodynamically, or compromised its structure in any substantial way.
    My objective in this action was to hopefully keep all the electronics within the shell running cooler, and ultimately extend there use. I may decide to open up other vent areas as well at some point, but had wanted to focus on the Front & rear portions of the upper hull for the time being.
     

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  15. Brymel

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  16. msinger

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    CapnBob, did you put anything over top of the foil? A lot of people are worried about electrical parts coming into contact with it.
     
  17. CapnBob

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    No, I used Copper tape, and it sticks very tightly to the surface of the frame.
    I applied it over 6 months ago, and it's still stuck. I'm not worried at all that it will come loose.

    Anything it could possibly touch is ground anyway; there are no hot connections out in the open near the shield.
    I have actually thought of grounding the shield to the common chassis ground. It might actually help.
    Right now, it's a "floating" ground plane, isolated from system ground.