What tools needed to replace P4 Camera/Gimbal?

[Michael Thompson]

I am switching out my camera and gimbal after a quick dip in the Eastern Atlantic Ocean off of Isla de Lobos, Canary Islands, and want to know if anyone can recommend a good little tool kit to repair my P4 Camera and gimbal. Thank you all in advance.

 

[DocDiggler]

This will work for sure

 

[Droneted]

This will work for sure

that's mean.

 

[Droneted]

You just need a T6 and a very small Philips screw driver.

 

[Droneted]

I bought this set from Amazon. Has about everything you might need and it is cheap
Amazon.com: Kaisi 16-Piece Precision Screwdriver Set Repair Tool Kit for iPad, iPhone & Other Devices (Kaisi 16 Piece): Computers & Accessories

 

[jiminyfixit]

I bought this set from Amazon. Has about everything you might need and it is cheap
Amazon.com: Kaisi 16-Piece Precision Screwdriver Set Repair Tool Kit for iPad, iPhone & Other Devices (Kaisi 16 Piece): Computers & Accessories

Great advice Ted!

BTW, I couldn't find the thread we last visited, so I thought I would update you on the P4 gimbal issue we were discussing, on this thread. I was waiting for a ribbon cable and it finally arrived. I highly recommend a ribbon cable replacement as part of the process of elimination in zeroing in on problematic gimbal motor issues. Our mutual problem was relating to an unstable yaw motor. I had replaced the yaw motor, before I replaced the ribbon cable and had the same result. After close examination of the old yaw motor's ribbon cable, I noticed a lot of vertical gouges in the gold contact material, so replacing it was in order. After changing the ribbon, the yaw worked fine and resulted in a perfect working camera and gimbal. During this process of getting familiar with the P4, I have determined that DJI's increasing advancements in technology have produced a new dilemma in camera repair. Mainly, the "secondary" circuit board, located on the back of the roll motor/yaw arm. This circuit board now services all 3 gimbal motors, so if it fails one motor's functionality, you have to replace the one and only board. Of course, these boards are not available anywhere.................yet, and I doubt DJI will make them available. Fortunately, I have a new P4 to test components with, which speeds up the testing process.
Cheers,
Jim

 

[Droneted]

I have worked on about 15 P4 gimbals so far. Mixed results so far. That sensor seems to be a problem. I have gotten most of the gimbals to point straight ahead or almost straight. They are off only by a little and it doesn't seem to affect the use of it.

 

[JWH]

I have worked on about 15 P4 gimbals so far. Mixed results so far. That sensor seems to be a problem. I have gotten most of the gimbals to point straight ahead or almost straight. They are off only by a little and it doesn't seem to affect the use of it.

Mine has looked slightly left since new. I thought about returning it under warranty, but didn't want to wind up with a refurbished one instead of a new one. I have thought about trying to fix it myself, but am afraid I will mess it up. The only time it really matters is when you are trying to fly a straight line using FPV.

 

[jiminyfixit]

I have worked on about 15 P4 gimbals so far. Mixed results so far. That sensor seems to be a problem. I have gotten most of the gimbals to point straight ahead or almost straight. They are off only by a little and it doesn't seem to affect the use of it.

After very close inspection with an eye loupe yesterday, and removing the metal race housing on a yaw motor, I noticed that every yaw motor that was causing problems had various degrees of damage to the small chip sensors. One was knocked out of place, breaking the solder connection and the other had deep scoring, (from the metal housing being pushed down onto it), in the top of the sensor. I use the term "sensor" only because I don't know the exact name of the electronic component. I know it senses the magnetic segments on the race, (there are 8), with blank spaces in between them, so I'll stick with "sensor". The extent of damage to a sensor determines the severity of irregular motion of the gimbals and/or the "centering" position. It appears the yaw gimbal is the most effected from a majority of average crashes. Knock a sensor loose from the solder and you have a unstoppable, back and forth motion of the yaw. What I plan on doing today is, removing the housing on a brand new yaw motor that has the older version housing and replacing it with a new version housing. I'm assuming the motors are no different. This way I will be able to finish repairs on a P4Pro without having to wait for weeks for the new motor. Watch this space:}
Jim

 

[jiminyfixit]

After very close inspection with an eye loupe yesterday, and removing the metal race housing on a yaw motor, I noticed that every yaw motor that was causing problems had various degrees of damage to the small chip sensors. One was knocked out of place, breaking the solder connection and the other had deep scoring, (from the metal housing being pushed down onto it), in the top of the sensor. I use the term "sensor" only because I don't know the exact name of the electronic component. I know it senses the magnetic segments on the race, (there are 8), with blank spaces in between them, so I'll stick with "sensor". The extent of damage to a sensor determines the severity of irregular motion of the gimbals and/or the "centering" position. It appears the yaw gimbal is the most effected from a majority of average crashes. Knock a sensor loose from the solder and you have a unstoppable, back and forth motion of the yaw. What I plan on doing today is, removing the housing on a brand new yaw motor that has the older version housing and replacing it with a new version housing. I'm assuming the motors are no different. This way I will be able to finish repairs on a P4Pro without having to wait for weeks for the new motor. Watch this space:}
Jim

Just completed a successful swap of the new version housing onto an old version motor. The motor is new and there was no race damage on the used, new version housing. Yes, it was difficult to get the courage to remove a brand new housing off of a brand new motor, but I have performed this procedure on P2V+'s and P3's for many years with success.

JWH mentioned a slightly left skew to the gimbal, which I also had. Here's how I fixed that. With the drone shut down, (OFF), I gently moved the whole gimbal, (grabbing hold of the yaw arm), all the way to the opposite side of the skew to force the upper shock plate, (inside the upper portion of the camera mount), to move slightly. There are small rubber isolators that can slide slightly on their mount, creating the skew. I did this several times, noticing improvement each time I did it. The gimbal is now in the "full center" position and repeats this on restart. No guarantee that it will stay centered in a soft crash.

Jim

 

[JWH]

Just completed a successful swap of the new version housing onto an old version motor. The motor is new and there was no race damage on the used, new version housing. Yes, it was difficult to get the courage to remove a brand new housing off of a brand new motor, but I have performed this procedure on P2V+'s and P3's for many years with success.

JWH mentioned a slightly left skew to the gimbal, which I also had. Here's how I fixed that. With the drone shut down, (OFF), I gently moved the whole gimbal, (grabbing hold of the yaw arm), all the way to the opposite side of the skew to force the upper shock plate, (inside the upper portion of the camera mount), to move slightly. There are small rubber isolators that can slide slightly on their mount, creating the skew. I did this several times, noticing improvement each time I did it. The gimbal is now in the "full center" position and repeats this on restart. No guarantee that it will stay centered in a soft crash.

Jim

Thank you for the tip. I will try that.

 

[jiminyfixit]

Thank you for the tip. I will try that.

JWH,
Let us all know if that works for you.
Jim