Welcome to PhantomPilots.com

Sign up for a weekly email of the latest drone news & information

Tip over - now it just clicks - no power

Discussion in 'Phantom 2 Vision + Discussion' started by CannibalRobotics, Dec 25, 2014.

  1. CannibalRobotics

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2014
    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    0
    Brand new P2v+. Flew it about ten minutes. got some great videos then put in newly charged battery. During take off it tipped and powered off. Now when I try to power it up it only clicks. Ive seen numerous similar posts talking about short circuit but no tips on how to fix? Ive tried it wot two batteries, both fully charged...
    Any suggestions ?
    Is it this fragile?
     
  2. sims5

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2014
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    On my second flight mine tipped over upon takeoff and now one motor won't run at the correct speed. I took the props off and it will throttle up and seems ok but won't "idle" correctly. Any ideas?
     
  3. CannibalRobotics

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2014
    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    0
    I can't get that far, I have no power except for a quick flash of the lights and the click noise.
    Battery packs will stay on if not inserted in helo.... most frustrating.
    Anybody?
     
  4. flyNfrank

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2014
    Messages:
    4,212
    Likes Received:
    910
    Location:
    Indy, USA
    On you situation your motors main points of interest are the clip on the bottom of the shaft that goes through the center, and the top of the motor there is a allen head set screw that tightens the props to the same shaft in the motor. The clips have been known to break, and the set screws are something that should always be checked after the props are stopped out of the normal. So your set screw may be slipping at certain torque points, or the clip has slipped from the groove it slides in, or the clip broke.
     
  5. sims5

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2014
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    How do I get to the clips? Do I have to take body apart?
     
  6. flyNfrank

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2014
    Messages:
    4,212
    Likes Received:
    910
    Location:
    Indy, USA
    I think you will need to pull the top cover to find the problem. I would look for a broken solder weld. Start with the wire connected battery connection. Or. you can send it back for repair under warranty.
     
  7. sims5

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2014
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    I took the 4 Allen head screws out so the motor can pull up and when I spin the motor It feels real rough. I see the clip and it seems ok.
     
  8. flyNfrank

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2014
    Messages:
    4,212
    Likes Received:
    910
    Location:
    Indy, USA
    Good question. Yes the covers need separated. This is basic and something you may do numerous times. I have mine apart 2-3 times a month if not more depending on the mods being done.

    After removing the cover there is 4 additional allen head screws in the bottom of the motor that is giving you trouble. Once you lift the motor the clip area is on the bottom.
     
  9. flyNfrank

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2014
    Messages:
    4,212
    Likes Received:
    910
    Location:
    Indy, USA
    Can you feel any up & down movement if you pull on the top of motor up & down?
     
  10. sims5

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2014
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Took four Allen bolts out and was able to move motor enough to see bottom. Clip seems fine. Don't see any set screw. Can you post a pic of where the set screw is located?
     
  11. sims5

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2014
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    I didn't notice any movement. I'll go double check
     
  12. sims5

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2014
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    With the props mounted, even the motor giving me problems spins by hand smoothly. Weird, when I had the prop off it doesn't spin smoothly.
     
  13. sims5

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2014
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    CannibalRobotics. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your post. Seemed like we were both having the same problem. Hope you get yours fixed easily.
     
  14. justin00

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2014
    Messages:
    1,143
    Likes Received:
    25
    Location:
    Australia
    Have a look on each of 4 ESC and see if anything looks burnt. If its just clicking / not powering up it sounds like a electrical problem, as opposed to a mechanical problem.
    If it was an issue with motor I would think the other 3 would turn on... but you have nothing turning on..
     
  15. PhilD13

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2014
    Messages:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Batteries powering off immediately after power on when inserted into the bird would indicate a short somewhere as at least the newer batteries have a short circuit/over current detection that will power off the battery. I would agree to start with the ESC boards that drive the motors and visually look for anything that looks to have been overheated, burnt, melted, or does not look like the other components on other boards, especially on the suspect motor arm as the motor could have stopped under power and burnt out a component on the ESC board before the power was shut down. I would also try if possible to inspect the motor windings that can be seen with a strong light source and and magnifying glass looking for anything that may indicate winding damage (burnt spots, impact damage, cuts in varnish or foreign matter in the motor. A damaged/shorted winding or burnt winding could cause an over current shutdown.
     
  16. CannibalRobotics

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2014
    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    0
    Ok, to answer my own post.
    Went out to UAVdirect in liberty hill Texas. They were great, i could drone on and on about how helpful they were but ill do that elsewhere. They jumped right into a fix. They disconnected the ESC boards until the short disapppeared. Turns out it was a fried ESC. They replaced it and I'm flying again, under warranty. Discussion boiled down to; a blocked rotor will fry either the ESC or the motor.
    So, back at shop I looked hard at the bad board and found 6 MOSFET chips, these are high current transistors. I removed the two center ones and the shorting problem went away. I ordered several replacements from DiGiKey so stay tuned. It may be that the transistor array blows itself on a blade stall. Bad news is that unless you have the tools to replace surface mount chips, your in for the $21+ replacement cost of the ESC. Good news is that this pin arrangement of the chip makes it very forgiving for cross solder problems. Once I get the replacements ill see if its a good repair and post part numbers.