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Tiger motor 1214-11 Taking off out of control

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by iflyloops, Jul 31, 2013.

  1. iflyloops

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    Hey all, new guy here. I installed the Anti Gravity motors from T-Motor, yes, all spinning the right directions, and running carbon props that are the same length and pitch as the stock props. After advanced calibration, the warm-up sequence (the yellow lights) has vanished! It used to take 1 1/2 minutes before the GPS would start searching. Now, it just starts up and looks for satellites and is ready to go in like 30seconds! But as soon as the motors spool up, the craft just jumps up, and, every time, takes off slightly forward and translates hard to the right. And it's a ***** to get it to come down! I pretty much have to dump the throttle and let it bounce to the ground. Any suggestions or similar results? BTW I'm flying 2200mAh battery and no GoPro for now. Any help would be very much appreciated! Thanks for reading! Chris
     
  2. boat chaser

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    I have read that the soldering on the esc has to be done very quickly to avoid burning the esc. I hope this is not your problem. There are many guys on here who have completed the motor switch. I have the 2214's to install. I may get it professionally done as I am new to soldering. The solder joints dji uses are high temperature solder so your iron has to be red hot.
     
  3. BruceTS

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    Did you do a compass calibration as well where your flying at?

    If you upgraded your software from an earlier version, before 3.12 then there was a change to the way the throttle response occurs. In other words you have to give it greater that half throttle, then it " jumps up" on initial start. Once airborne then the throttle will respond like usual, simply go below half and it should start descending.

    New motors, CF props and no additional weight will make thing very responsive......
     
  4. Cubby

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    I did the same motor upgrade a couple weeks ago, went without issue. I'm no pro at soldering either. Quad still does the same warm up sequence and everything. Only thing different that I notice is that the quad has a bit more power on tap at all times, and it seems a little bit quieter (but not by much).

    boat chaser is correct about the solder DJI uses. It seems that it's the non-leaded ROHS compliant solder. But if DJI was able to put that stuff on there, the board should be able to withstand the heat needed to take it off again no problem. What I personally did was I heated up the DJI solder (took 425 degrees C to do it) and sucked it all away with a solder sucker. Then when I went to solder in the new motors, I used my standard leaded solder which melts at only 350-ish C.

    I would do a full calibration of the NAZA via the assistant, then do a full calibration of the transmitter also if you haven't already. Make sure your sticks are centered and then check to make sure they also rest at center via the channel monitor on the "view" page of the assistant.
     
  5. iflyloops

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    Hey thanks you guys for the feedback! As for the soldering, I got the solder the flow at 350 degrees. I did the Naza calibration but did not do a compass calibration. I just ordered a new compass to see if I can get it to read below the 1600 that it is at now. I just can't figure out why it doesn't warm up as usual.... Other that that, I'm going back to the stock props and will try it again after I install the new compass. I was hoping that one of you guys that did the swap would suggest lowering the idle speed or some other parameter adjustment. Please let me know if you are using the DJI radio or an aftermarket one. A friend of mine at AirStar International is running a Futaba 10CHG and his flies great. In fact, he said he more that doubled his range to the point you can't even see it at night! Thanks again guys!