The Official "My P4 Range Is Too Short" Thread - Don't Start New Range Threads!

So, John, do you have a preference as to which controller replacement would be best? The inspire or either p3 controller?

I use an Inspire controller because I happen to have one at the time. I bought it in May 2015 to get the HDMI port, however right after I bought it DJI released the HDMI kit, which I bought for my Phantom 3P. So I didn't use the Inspire controller until I have my range issues with the P4. I think it's a better idea to use an early Phantom 3 controller (GL300A). I've heard others having good results with that. The reason it's a better choice IMO is:
1. They are cheaper than GL658A Inspire controllers.
2. They are easier to find on eBay. More of the GL300A were manufactured by DJI.
3. If you ever upgrade the antenna to a Itelite DBS2.2 (a common upgrade), you only have to deal with 2 antenna wires on the P3 controller GL300A. The Inspire has a 3rd antenna wire for the 5.8Ghz channel for a second remote. You'll have to add another small antenna for that, otherwise the 5.8Ghz RF transmitter will likely blow, rendering it useless if you ever wanted to sell it as an Inspire controller, or if you ever wanted to use it with an Inspire at a later date. If you didn't attenuate that 5.8 channel (installing an antenna) and that channel did blow, the controller would likely still work fine for controlling a Phantom with the other two 2.4Ghz antennas.
 
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Yes, I have measured the difference in the RF power (control signal from RC up to craft) between P4 and P3 controllers, as well as the RF power (video downlink from craft to RC) between the P3 and P4 craft. Here's the thread from a while ago. My conclusion is the GL300C controller is the weakest lightbridge controller DJI has manufactured to date. To really solve the P4 range problem it's best to start with a good controller, like the GL300A (early Phantom 3P), or the GL658A (early Inspire), they have much better transmit power. You might find them on Ebay used. However, you'll need to KEEP the P4 controller for firmware updates to the craft. These other controllers won't work for that.

This reduced power output from the GL300C versus GL300A/B has been confirmed in the FCC filing that DJI submitted to the FCC, as other members have reported.

Thanks for posting your findings John. Good read/info !

I finally got out on the river with my P4/GL300A combo. Conditions were iffy. Rain was on it's way, a bit windy.
I went for it. Flew it out 10K ft. over water, trees, 3 sets of power lines and passed beside a small town. The Video was perfect out and back.
Swapped back to the P4 controller. Let the bird cool down for 30 minutes then flew the same route.
Video was perfect the first 5K ft. and then I had some slight break up at 6K ft. and a complete video drop out at 8100 ft. Never lost control. Probably could have drove threw it but decided to bring it back home. That was the first time it has ever lost video.
I will redo this test with better weather condition.
PS,
Channel was set to Auto for both runs. In my area I seem to have better luck that way.
 
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I reported range issue in the urban area, RTHed at 475 m distance where my P3P had never had a problem in that area, I fly both in the area as a matter of fact I had never had an RTH on my P3P,
the second flight with my P4 lost signal with the controller and auto returned to home point, this really made me worried as the craft also drifted out of sight before initiating RTH and returning.
I also ran a distance flight with P4 in a rural area and it was incredible making no problem 4.25 km each way and landing with 40% battery life... so there you go, there is definitely something changed in P4 and DJI claims it's all the same, I think they are trying to limit the range within residential area for liability purpose, why I do not know...
Nevertheless the P4 is a fantastic quad-copter if they can make it to match P3P range I would be dancing on a cloud with a case of beer !

CONTROLLER SPECS

Phantom 3P
Frequency Range (MHZ) 2406.5 - 2476.5
Output Watts 0.746

================================

Phantom 4
Frequency Range (MHZ) 2406.5 - 2476.5
Output Watts 0.598
I have both the Phantom 3 Pro and Phantom 4. When I first started flying the Phantom 4, it did seem the video signal dropped out/switched channels more often. It seems the Phantom 4 video feed goes blank more often (every time I get the weak transmission message) where the Phantom 3 just gives the message and keeps the feed alive. I've always just kept the channels on auto. I live in a very rural area with mountains and trees and I'm almost always flying with something between me and the bird. Then phantom 3 does better in these conditions.
 
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Good, concentrate on reading the positive stuff and you'll learn lots of tips and tricks. Reading negativity will do nothing but discourage new pilots.

Look into the channel hack, something to play with if you live in an area with a congested 2.4ghz spectrum.
Maybe what we need to create is a "Rant" page and let all go there who are just blowing off about their Phantoms. I agree that the forum should be a little more focused on issues and save the expletives for the rants page and use this space to help all pilots.
 
I use an Inspire controller because I happen to have one at the time. I bought it in May 2015 to get the HDMI port, however right after I bought it DJI released the HDMI kit, which I bought for my Phantom 3P. So I didn't use the Inspire controller until I have my range issues with the P4. I think it's a better idea to use an early Phantom 3 controller (GL300A). I've heard others having good results with that. The reason it's a better choice IMO is:
1. They are cheaper than GL658A Inspire controllers.
2. They are easier to find on eBay. More of the GL300A were manufactured by DJI.
3. If you ever upgrade the antenna to a Itelite DBS2.2 (a common upgrade), you only have to deal with 2 antenna wires on the P3 controller GL300A. The Inspire has a 3rd antenna wire for the 5.8Ghz channel for a second remote. You'll have to add another small antenna for that, otherwise the 5.8Ghz RF transmitter will likely blow, rendering it useless if you ever wanted to sell it as an Inspire controller, or if you ever wanted to use it with an Inspire at a later date. If you didn't attenuate that 5.8 channel (installing an antenna) and that channel did blow, the controller would likely still work fine for controlling a Phantom with the other two 2.4Ghz antennas.
I think I whined too soon. I went to an urban city and drove to the very top of a parking garage and ended up flying 3.2 miles with the itelite maxxrange. Would have gone further but the battery scared me when it warned me to go back at 65%... still reeeally thinking about the battery mod posted on previous post. But wonder if I can put both battery mods and this Gimbal-Guard on my p4....

Sent from my SM-G935T using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
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i ended up returning mine due to poor range issues...perhaps i just had a lemon, but I would get RTH activated at 3000 feet when my p3 can go almost 8000 feet in the same area!

under optimal conditions, they may be similar, but in non-optimum conditions, P3 wins.....at least from my experience
I love my P4. Had my first crash flying indoors after about 2 weeks of having it. My range is about 1-1.5km and most of the time I don't even see it. I normally fly till it starts to lose connection and return to home than as soon as I get stable feed I stop RTH and fly some more closer to my position. I never come close to the 5 KM they say it should but I love it. And the range I get is normally far enough away that if I had a problem I would be totally screwed. Can't imagine being 3 times the distance away.
 
I used to get flawless video on my Ipad Pro with no pixelation issues for miles (I have the MaxUAV ElitePlus). Since, I have gotten my P4 back from DJI repairs, I am getting a lot of pixelation and corrupted video from startup. I spoke with DJI and they are saying to swap out my video device, i.e., IPad Pro.

Any suggestions.
 
I hope this is the right thread for this post.

I have experienced the occasional comms. dropout with my recently acquired P4. I thought of upgrading to one of those signal booster kits which result in two external white square panels in place of the OEM antennae on the rear of the CU. But fitting those invalidates the warranty, due to the internal RF output modifications involved. So I bought one of these (at a much lower price anyway).

IMG_1713.JPG


Although seemingly a sound idea, its implementation leaves much to be desired, for the antennae are badly oriented. Even without parabolic reflectors, the antennae are poorly positioned. The strongest signals are achieved from the flat surfaces of the aerials, which ideally should face upwards and away from the rear of the CU, to where the drone is most likely to be. With the curved copper reflectors in place, the strongest signals would be somewhere between straight ahead and focused downwards to the ground. If only the two antenna blades would swivel downwards, then the optimum upwards/forwards RF radiation direction would easily be achieved.

This would require the blades to be rotated by 180 degrees in the CU casing in order to be angled downwards, with the reflectors then fitted 'backwards' as it were. But in that respect, they are fixed. Does anyone know of an easy, non-invalidatory way of persuading them to rotate?

Thanks in anticipation.

Tony.
 
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I hope this is the right thread for this post.

I have experienced the occasional comms. dropout with my recently acquired P4. I thought of upgrading to one of those signal booster kits which result in two external white square panels in place of the OEM antennae on the rear of the CU. But fitting those invalidates the warranty, due to the internal RF output modifications involved. So I bought one of these (at a much lower price anyway).

View attachment 66782

Although seemingly a sound idea, its implementation leavxtraes much to be desired, for the antennae are badly oriented. Even without parabolic reflectors, the antennae are poorly positioned. The strongest signals are achieved from the flat surfaces of the aerials, which ideally should face upwards and away from the rear of the CU, to where the drone is most likely to be. With the curved copper reflectors in place, the strongest signals would be somewhere between straight ahead and focused downwards to the ground. If only the two antenna blades would swivel downwards, then the optimum upwards/forwards RF radiation direction would easily be achieved.

This would require the blades to be rotated by 180 degrees in the CU casing in order to be angled downwards, with the reflectors then fitted 'backwards' as it were. But in that respect, they are fixed. Does anyone know of an easy, non-invalidatory way of persuading them to rotate?

Thanks in anticipation.

Tony.

Tony, have you flown with your Parabolics yet ?? I thought the same thing after popping a set on to test. I thought they were aimed to low due to them hitting the RX when tipped back. This wasn't the case when i flew with them. Tipping the controller up would drop the signal %, They work very well aimed almost flat out at 10+K ft, 400 ft high.
But hey it's worth a try. I haven;t been into one yet but would assume they could be rotated if you take it apart. someone will chime it that knows. I personally would just add SMA jacks in the stock location. you could put some small Dba antenna's ( like stock or whatever ) and point them anyway you want.
Oh, sorry. you did mention warranty. I bough a P3P controller off EBay cheap, to mod and can keep the original in the box. For warranty and upgrade reasons.
 
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I hope this is the right thread for this post.

I have experienced the occasional comms. dropout with my recently acquired P4. I thought of upgrading to one of those signal booster kits which result in two external white square panels in place of the OEM antennae on the rear of the CU. But fitting those invalidates the warranty, due to the internal RF output modifications involved. So I bought one of these (at a much lower price anyway).

View attachment 66782

Although seemingly a sound idea, its implementation leaves much to be desired, for the antennae are badly oriented. Even without parabolic reflectors, the antennae are poorly positioned. The strongest signals are achieved from the flat surfaces of the aerials, which ideally should face upwards and away from the rear of the CU, to where the drone is most likely to be. With the curved copper reflectors in place, the strongest signals would be somewhere between straight ahead and focused downwards to the ground. If only the two antenna blades would swivel downwards, then the optimum upwards/forwards RF radiation direction would easily be achieved.

This would require the blades to be rotated by 180 degrees in the CU casing in order to be angled downwards, with the reflectors then fitted 'backwards' as it were. But in that respect, they are fixed. Does anyone know of an easy, non-invalidatory way of persuading them to rotate?

Thanks in anticipation.

Tony.
Like Turbo said, you'd be better off buying a GL300B or GL300A off ebay for ~$150 and modifying it with a DBS2.2 from Maxxuav. Those have more transmit power for control signal. The GL300C is the weakest controller with Lightbridge that DJI has made to date. I bought an Inspire GL658A (even more signal power) on ebay for my P4 and use the exact Windsurfer you have. I go 2 miles all the time, but not possible with GL300C. I have the DBS2.2 on my desk that I plan to install soon (been busy).

upload_2016-10-13_17-8-58.png
 
Stock P4 and Controller on Auto signal settings (ie NO MODS) flew 1.5 miles straight out across farm fields, several rows of trees and large quarry ponds and a couple power lines. No issues at 220sh feet high. This was the furthest I braved to fly since purchase 2 months ago.

I wanted to land there at the location 1.5 miles out and lost signal during the descent .. . as I approached just under 100 feet P4 initiated RTH within few seconds my spotter said "its Gone" ... the RTH process happens quickly for those who do not know. I was fine with that had lots of battery left so I let it return ... landed almost exactly where she took off from.

Looking at ways to improve things mainly to make landing possible at further distances, but this far exceeds any "normal" flying I would be doing.

Loving my P4 and all it can do....thank you to all those out here helping me and others.... I will post a video later but wanted to share a success story for those looking for positive feedback in this thread.

THANK YOU !!!
 
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I need some help and just to let you know i was just about to create a new thread about my range ahaha Ok so i think my phantom 4 is not working properly because i can only average a 1700ft distance and its really starting to annoy me when i see people getting 6000ft + on average so is mine broken or do i suck at flying? Thanks Efremie
 
I need some help and just to let you know i was just about to create a new thread about my range ahaha Ok so i think my phantom 4 is not working properly because i can only average a 1700ft distance and its really starting to annoy me when i see people getting 6000ft + on average so is mine broken or do i suck at flying? Thanks Efremie

Have you tried a different location ? Interference seems to be a major cause of large variations in flight distance.
Adjust height, if I am out a ways I am usually at 400'
 
I need some help and just to let you know i was just about to create a new thread about my range ahaha Ok so i think my phantom 4 is not working properly because i can only average a 1700ft distance and its really starting to annoy me when i see people getting 6000ft + on average so is mine broken or do i suck at flying? Thanks Efremie
something don't sound right at all, are you in a good open location, or suburbs ? weird ?? I just had my longest flight this evening breaking the 19,577ft before hitting the RTH and it landed with 32% , last night was my best at 18,060ft
 
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Tony, have you flown with your Parabolics yet ?? I thought the same thing after popping a set on to test. I thought they were aimed to low due to them hitting the RX when tipped back. This wasn't the case when i flew with them. Tipping the controller up would drop the signal %, They work very well aimed almost flat out at 10+K ft, 400 ft high.
But hey it's worth a try. I haven;t been into one yet but would assume they could be rotated if you take it apart. someone will chime it that knows. I personally would just add SMA jacks in the stock location. you could put some small Dba antenna's ( like stock or whatever ) and point them anyway you want.
Oh, sorry. you did mention warranty. I bough a P3P controller off EBay cheap, to mod and can keep the original in the box. For warranty and upgrade reasons.
Sorry Turbomania, for the delay in replying.

I have used them just once, and was unimpressed. Perhaps due to their highly directional nature and my not having kept them aimed exactly at the drone - difficult when the drone is some distance away - I felt their use was worse than without them.

I've now ordered these...

IMG_1722.JPG


despite their need to delve inside the CU and invalidate the warranty. (I am more than capable of fitting them, by the way). I would think the 'paddle' antennae can be oriented to best advantage, even if it means them being sloped downwards from their RF attachment sockets. They are reckoned to give a 7dB improvement.

As they're from China, they'll take a while to arrive, but at only 60% of the price of UK-shipped ones, I'll put up with the delay.

Tony.
 
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All please educate me on this one question Please!!! I love the Idea of extending the range but what good does it do if your battery can only give you 27 min of Flight time??
Please help me understand what I am missing. I see where someone has flown 12 miles how the heck dose he make it back????
Am I missing Something??

Ron
 
All please educate me on this one question Please!!! I love the Idea of extending the range but what good does it do if your battery can only give you 27 min of Flight time??
Please help me understand what I am missing. I see where someone has flown 12 miles how the heck dose he make it back????
Am I missing Something??

Ron
Those people must use battery mods...
 
last night conditions were perfect, managed to set a new personal best of 21,086.9 ft for a total round trip of 42,702ft, then decided to do another and went out to 22,199.2ft for a round trip total of 44810...was an exciting evening of flights for me and i enjoyed it immensely ...my buddy was there for the show, (P3P owner)
 
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Sounds like a good night Bckmstr !! How do you have it set up ?
Stock with parabolics ?? DB-2 panel antenna.
I'm at 16200 with just parabolics on my RX. Haven.t hooked up any of my crazy antenna stuff yet. 22000 is far enough for me. I'm in this to pick up better penetration in the tree's. The wife said i need better penetration :O :) I'm pretty sure she meant my Phantom...lmao :)
 
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