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Discussion in 'Phantom 2 Discussion' started by Fanti, Mar 24, 2014.
am thinking of upgrading my motors, which ones should I choose ?
I can't recommend the t-Motors. I did not see any improvement and I had problems getting props installed properly. The stock motors really do a good job. What are you looking to improve?
I have had issues with the bearings of the DJI Motors and its a pain. Thats why I want to change.
Plus some more efficiency, smoother running etc and improved looks don't hurt either.
The new e300 DJI motors are using superior bearings- they have been redesigned and are better, but...
...since I was asking this same question last week, and spent some time researching, the e300 is not going to offer anymore torque or performance where the anti gravity t-motors will.
I am waiting on my new set of 2.0 Anti gravity t-motors to show in the mail... it ended up being an easy choice after a lot of hemming and hawing.
I have the E300 set but the motors are just the same as the red mn2212's... Just in a grey version. I have checked the looks of the bearings but there is no sign of them being better then the former dji motors... Maybe in the long run, but for now i think it is more marketing.
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I have yet to see anyone say that the T-Motors were worth all the effort or that they even got anything out of them performance wise vs. stock. If like me, you banged up the P2 a few times before you got the hang of it, your bearings are probably a little crunchy. Buy some Boca ceramic bearings and put them in. Reduced friction should give you a better spinning motor. Much less work than replacing the motors and only $60. Anyway, that's the motor mod I am considering.
Hiway, what is the 2.0 version of the T-Motors ?
That I am going to find out... I cannot find time to research what that may mean... possibly a new sticker on the side?
I'm curious as well. It may just mean they're the -11 models with the cross-threaded shafts, but it could be something recent too.
I feel the tmotors are better balanced. The problems with stock prop fitment is all the white paint that is on the threads and the shaft. Easy fix...a small wire brush on the threads and shaft as they are spinning to remove the paint will make the props spin right on....take the blades off first!
From my brief study and savvy use of search engine ninja skills... I have discovered... absolutely nothing more than what you post here...until this:
So I suppose matched threading to the Phantom (as the original t-motors did not have that I am reading) and Justgregg points out the liberal use of white paint... at no additional charge.
While there are a couple of mentions in a few spots out in the digital flotsam and jetsam, overall the consensus is exactly as Jg up there says- better balance, better bearings. see many mentions of better response and better performance- but the posts from the folks that give me the best guy instinct they are spot on objective also point out that those improvements are very slight, and only noticeable if you are extremely intimate with flying your quad- which I would like to consider myself, but based on the previous mentioned resources, I am pure, unadulterated pee-pee ****. I got minutes to their hours and days, not to mention the years of r/c flying before there were multi-rotors for the masses.
I am pleased at the investment- I have no regrets for choosing this upgrade (yet) and despite my trimming much off the Phantom on this latest rebuild, I still need to consider that is so I have a buffer for the retracts. I also am looking at stacking another Rx on it to try and get all my gimbal control through that Rx, and then hopefully open up the 5 and 8 channels on the Naza for gain adjustments. Basically I am pretending I have a real aerial photography rig- learning how it all works and coordinates, and then I will build something from scratch.
On a good note about motors- I discovered that I did not have a bent shaft on one stock- so in many ways this upgrade was pointless- I had a bent motor mount on the shell- I was doing mock ups with it today, and noticed it- I put the new shell and guts in and tightened them down enough to fire it up and the motor spins perfectly. I put the props on and started it up- they all are precisely the same distances off the top per my old measurements... so I should have been WAY more thorough before jumping to the conclusion my motor shaft was bent when that prop hit the top- if I had looked closer, and not been so pissed, I would have saved $200.
So yesterday the snazzy, new and improved, bodacious, stupendous, fantabulous, epic, unequivocal, soon to be performing for the Queen and Court at Buckingham Palace by special request... ah screw it: Here are those "2.0" versions of the Anti Gravity T-Motors:
First up- the cool sticker I counted on:
Labeling for cross referencing:
CCW Thread Nut with Custom Monogram:
CW Thread Nut with Custom Monogram:
Full set- CW on the top CCW on the bottom- I have taken the liberty of sliding the heat shrink on the wires, per specs, and according to the color they represent on the stock motors (exceptin I have that dysentery green instead of yellow- but the others are correct)
I have decided to hold off until after testing the new retracts (still waiting on parts) and putting some more hours on the stock motors- after putting everything back together, and buttoning her up and mounting the new compass leg (she has a crutch for now to hold her up) I recalibrated the IMU and fired her up and honestly? It never sounded as good as she does now. Everything is smoother and tighter- the motors spin much quieter, and the props are dead balls steady and firm at idle on the table. I will thrash out the stock motors on some aggression flying and then swap out.
Nice, thanks for the feedback on those Hiway. Now I REALLY want to know what that 2.0 signifies on there, I can't see any obvious differences in your pics.
Hiway, where did you purchase those from?
So I installed the T-Motors and my flight time went from 17 to 13 mins :shock: :shock: :shock:
Could it be bad sodering ? Everything works normally. Is soldering a hit and miss so it either works or not, or could there be some issues ?
Amazon. I just did a search- only 1 or 2 vendors have the 2.0 in the product description
I honestly think you were right to begin with- the original version had righty tighty props nuts, and this one has the cw and ccw respectively.
No performance or torque increases, same bearings... why would they do anything other than that? They did that due to complaints from Phantom pilots and folks who wanted to use he vision props.
As for Fanti's issue- well these are supposed to be 10% more powerful than stock, and 8% more efficient... so the lost minutes is not what I would expect.
Me neither, but thats the way it is unfortunately.
I 've done a video review while ago, might want to check it out!
I am a pro photographer and a newer pilot. I have owned 2X phantom I's. I recently purchased a phantom II kit through DSLR pros. It came with prop guards and thought I would use them while getting dialed into to new controls etc. Then when I took the prop guards off and put screws back in - I killed the motors with the long (wrong screws). It was recommended that I replace the motors and ESC -so reluctantly I did. I decided to upgrade to the T-Motors.
I looked at way to many reviews and poor videos about the comparisons. With new T motors the phantom is markedly more responsive. Battery life may be as reviewed everywhere about 5-10% greater. But for me the real difference is the responsiveness. It's like turbo vs non turbo. The other thing I liked is that when ordering the T-motors, the come as a set paired with 2 CCW and 2 CW motors in one box. That eliminates getting shipped all of the same spin direction.
One last note that I would share is that the direction of the motors is a confusing topic. Because there are 2 different things that could be described by direction of each motor. The thread direction and the spin direction. I was looking at the spin direction for wiring - but I should have been looking at the threading direction as I had to re-wire all 4 motors.
Hope that helps some one.