Stress Crack - Resolved...

I'm happy with mine screwed AND glued... Arms a super strong. No issues. Did 8 flights took off strong arms to see if cracks were continuing to increase or perhaps new ones.
It seemed to do what it is intended to do. Whether it's because of them or them and the glue job who knows...but all is well in my world...
It seems pretty obvious by the design that these will very much increase the strength on the arms. Currently there 6 screws. 4 of those screws mount the motor to the lower plastic arm. The other 2 screws are where the problem exists. Those 2 screws are recessed and hold the top plastic and the bottom plastic together. That recess area is very light plastic and the torque by the motors "WILL" crack the frame in those recessions. It's just a matter of time.

The UAVBits uses all 6 screws to bolster and strengthen the 2 frame screws. It has plastic that fits into the recesses of the screw holes and provides support. No doubt this provides a lot more strength.
 
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It seems pretty obvious by the design that these will very much increase the strength on the arms. Currently there 6 screws. 4 of those screws mount the motor to the lower plastic arm. The other 2 screws are where the problem exists. Those 2 screws are recessed and hold the top plastic and the bottom plastic together. That recess area is very light plastic and the torque by the motors "WILL" crack the frame in those recessions. It's just a matter of time.

The UAVBits uses all 6 screws to bolster and strengthen the 2 frame screws. It has plastic that fits into the recesses of the screw holes and provides support. No doubt this provides a lot more strength.
Well that solution sure looks better than mine.
IMG_20150707_184006978_HDR.jpg
 
It seems pretty obvious by the design that these will very much increase the strength on the arms. Currently there 6 screws. 4 of those screws mount the motor to the lower plastic arm. The other 2 screws are where the problem exists. Those 2 screws are recessed and hold the top plastic and the bottom plastic together. That recess area is very light plastic and the torque by the motors "WILL" crack the frame in those recessions. It's just a matter of time.

The UAVBits uses all 6 screws to bolster and strengthen the 2 frame screws. It has plastic that fits into the recesses of the screw holes and provides support. No doubt this provides a lot more strength.
I have installed the strong arms kit but i had some problems. The fit of the 4 plates are all different and the plate got pretty much deformed and its hard to get the screws tight and you dont really know when you should stop tightening. The two shell screws in particular are hard to tell if its enough or not, those plastic nipples on that reinforcement plate is not pushed all the way in it seem but you cant tighten the screws more otherwise i would destroy my tool. Hmm, i hope the kit wont destroy the phantom shell itself. On one arm i could still push in the bottom shell with my finger a bit, so thats odd. The 4 motor screws differed in headsize, some had large flat heads and some smaller heads
 
I had no problem installing mine. You need to make sure you install the shell mount first. As the instructions suggests, it should be tightened until the piece angles slightly. Then secure the motor screws. I had no issues and it looks good.
 
I have installed the strong arms kit but i had some problems. The fit of the 4 plates are all different and the plate got pretty much deformed and its hard to get the screws tight and you dont really know when you should stop tightening. The two shell screws in particular are hard to tell if its enough or not, those plastic nipples on that reinforcement plate is not pushed all the way in it seem but you cant tighten the screws more otherwise i would destroy my tool. Hmm, i hope the kit wont destroy the phantom shell itself. On one arm i could still push in the bottom shell with my finger a bit, so thats odd. The 4 motor screws differed in headsize, some had large flat heads and some smaller heads
There are 2 different size screws. One size is for the motor, 16 of those. The other is longer and for the frame, 8 of those.

If the plate got deformed then email the person at UAVBits via the email provided. Gary will take care of you I'm sure.
 
There are 2 different size screws. One size is for the motor, 16 of those. The other is longer and for the frame, 8 of those.

If the plate got deformed then email the person at UAVBits via the email provided. Gary will take care of you I'm sure.
No, you got that wrong. The motorscrews have different headsizes, not the shellscrews. Furthermore i saw the deformed plates on most pictures i could find
 
No, you got that wrong. The motorscrews have different headsizes, not the shellscrews. Furthermore i saw the deformed plates on most pictures i could find
Well, on the kit I received it was correct. Not sure what you got. The head size is not really a problem though to be honest. My plates are fine. The fit was also fine. I suggest you contact the owner of the product and see what he will do for you.
 
Whats the deal. On the UAV sit it list Strong Arm reinforcement plates and Premium Strong Arm reinforcement plate from Shapeways. Different price.
 
Whats the deal. On the UAV sit it list Strong Arm reinforcement plates and Premium Strong Arm reinforcement plate from Shapeways. Different price.
I think Shapeways is a design site where you can download the designs to be printed on your own 3D printer. My thoughts anyway..
 
I think Shapeways is a design site where you can download the designs to be printed on your own 3D printer. My thoughts anyway..


It's primarily the opposite.... a 3D printing service.
 
These look good but would they be netter CNC out of an aluminium or injection moulded in an engineering grade nylon? I manufacture bits, small runs CNC, moulded so if theres a good design it looks like something a lot of people would buy but is that the best design or woould you want it coming up and over to wrap around like the cable ties?
 
These look good but would they be netter CNC out of an aluminium or injection moulded in an engineering grade nylon? I manufacture bits, small runs CNC, moulded so if theres a good design it looks like something a lot of people would buy but is that the best design or woould you want it coming up and over to wrap around like the cable ties?
These are quite tough. I thought sanding it would be a piece of cake but it's obviously some kind of nylon plastic. Some have argued that you have better heat distribution with aluminum but I haven't seen those yet.

To me, these are vital. Wish I knew when I ordered the P3 before I took the first flight.
 
Installed my Strong Arm reinforcement kit, and finger tighted it hard to make sure it don't unscrew in flight,(Old habbit since one of my collective pitch heli lost a blade mid-flight years ago and almost killed me passing like a wizzing bullet 3 inches from my head).
The Strong Arm plastic bended a Bit, But this plastic is pretty elastic and can take some serious beating :).
Since i installed that kit my Drone is more stable and react faster to commands because everything is tight and not twisting like it was before, really happy with the purchase, this guy will be rich lol.
 
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I have had both versions and the final product from shapeways is much more refined. I think it is worth the added cost. Either way Gary is getting paid for the design. Shapeways costs a bit more and takes a little longer but is more of a finished product.
 
Got the UAV Bits strong arm kit and did a bit of sanding, which takes a really long time I might add.. this plastic is not easy to sand. Painted and installed. Note to self: Those shell screws are Torx not hex screws.. UGH!

After removing screws I found that the crack was much more substantial than originally thought. I didn't really have a way to fix this so I'm hoping that the beefed up ends will make it so this doesn't matter much. Thoughts on that??

I have been very easy on my P3 so I'm thinking that it's not a matter of if it cracks but when it cracks..

Does anybody know what this plastic shell is exactly made out of it? If you don't live in CA. You can try Weldon 3. Atleast with stryene it will just slightly melt the stryene and it reseals a seem back together. I wonder if there is some type of adhesive that would work with this plastic shell?

There is a huge after market for carbon fiber shells.
 
A complex shaped shell out of true CF will be difficult and expensive, but may be worth it for some.
 
Does anybody know what this plastic shell is exactly made out of it? If you don't live in CA. You can try Weldon 3. Atleast with stryene it will just slightly melt the stryene and it reseals a seem back together. I wonder if there is some type of adhesive that would work with this plastic shell?

There is a huge after market for carbon fiber shells.
Yes, they would go viral:D
 
Got the UAV Bits strong arm kit and did a bit of sanding, which takes a really long time I might add.. this plastic is not easy to sand. Painted and installed. Note to self: Those shell screws are Torx not hex screws.. UGH!

After removing screws I found that the crack was much more substantial than originally thought. I didn't really have a way to fix this so I'm hoping that the beefed up ends will make it so this doesn't matter much. Thoughts on that??

I have been very easy on my P3 so I'm thinking that it's not a matter of if it cracks but when it cracks..
This forum is full of threads and posts all complaining about poor quality of the product ..which is not cheap and liable to crack. But somebody sells a "solution" which costs...from what I see online...around $50 and the " manufacturer" does not even supply a finished product .....it needs laborious sanding of the rough inner surface.....and nobody thinks it warrants a complaint?
 
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