Rth takes how long to activate after signal loss?

Your bird will initiate RTH within seconds of complete signal loss. The time it takes to return varies on the distance and wind conditions.


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
As long as you have enough sats locked, RTH will always initiate in either gps or atti mode. If you are using intelligent flight modes, the mission you sent it on will be completed before starting RTH.


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
RTH is initiated 3 seconds after the remote controller signal is lost.
 
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RTH is initiated 3 seconds after the remote controller signal is lost.
Yes, except if you're flying with the Autopilot app, in which case there won't be any RTH on signal loss, for now. They plan to fix that in a later firmware update.
If you're flying an orbit in F mode with DJI Go, I think it continues the orbit until you reach critical battery (usually 10%) and then lands. I could be wrong here.
 
Since we're venturing into edge cases, the Phantom will also not RTH on signal loss if "Return-to-Home" is not selected here:

DJI-GO-RC-Signal-Lost.png
 
No. It will auto land when the battery reaches the critical level.
 
Yes 3 seconds but don't count to 3 seconds when you see the weak tramission warning or warnings about RC connection issues. I have noticed those warnings can show for many many seconds before RTH is initiatited and sometimes RTH never kicks in. All this means is actual signal loss then regain isn't being accurately displayed in the app. I imagine because the loss then regain is happening so fast that it's just not manageable to display that. If you lose video and it usually is the first thing to go or start lagging badly then look at your map to see if you have control, yaw left right etc and see if your direction changes etc.
 
Yes 3 seconds but don't count to 3 seconds when you see the weak tramission warning or warnings about RC connection issues. I have noticed those warnings can show for many many seconds before RTH is initiatited and sometimes RTH never kicks in. All this means is actual signal loss then regain isn't being accurately displayed in the app. I imagine because the loss then regain is happening so fast that it's just not manageable to display that. If you lose video and it usually is the first thing to go or start lagging badly then look at your map to see if you have control, yaw left right etc and see if your direction changes etc.
The true test of lost control signal is the far left LED light on the transmitter turning from solid green to solid red. If it is still green, you have control of the aircraft, even if you have no telemetry or FPV.

Also, don't confuse weak transmission or No Signal relating to the FPV with loss of transmitter control. The messages in the app are very confusing. Check the signal bars for the radio control and the HD signal link at the top. More often than not, it is only the FPV signal dropping and not the control signal, which will still show full bars. Then double check for the red light on the transmitter. If it is still green, you have full transmitter control, no matter what the app says!
 
The true test of lost control signal is the far left LED light on the transmitter turning from solid green to solid red. If it is still green, you have control of the aircraft, even if you have no telemetry or FPV.

Also, don't confuse weak transmission or No Signal relating to the FPV with loss of transmitter control. The messages in the app are very confusing. Check the signal bars for the radio control and the HD signal link at the top. More often than not, it is only the FPV signal dropping and not the control signal, which will still show full bars. Then double check for the red light on the transmitter. If it is still green, you have full transmitter control, no matter what the app says!

Correct. I think this is by design, but anyway it works out pretty well. When you lose the video, you can typically just 'back out' a bit (or go higher) and get it back. Also, if you use an HDMI feed such as a set of FPV goggles or another monitor, you see the signal start to break up instead of just a blank screen as shown on the tablet. I find that very useful as even blocky, broken video is better than no video.

Another trick if you lose the video feed is to move around a bit. Sometimes moving 10 feet or so changes things enough to get a signal back. The P3 is just sitting there happily staring at whatever it was staring at so no real worries. And if you can't get anything to work, that's what RTH is for.
 
Correct. I think this is by design, but anyway it works out pretty well. When you lose the video, you can typically just 'back out' a bit (or go higher) and get it back. Also, if you use an HDMI feed such as a set of FPV goggles or another monitor, you see the signal start to break up instead of just a blank screen as shown on the tablet. I find that very useful as even blocky, broken video is better than no video.

Another trick if you lose the video feed is to move around a bit. Sometimes moving 10 feet or so changes things enough to get a signal back. The P3 is just sitting there happily staring at whatever it was staring at so no real worries. And if you can't get anything to work, that's what RTH is for.
Lately, I'm finding that the DJI GO app FPV will also break up, rather than go or stay completely off, too, especially as it comes back, after loss. Even rotating the aircraft in place can help restore FPV, as sometimes the camera itself is blocking the needed FPV antenna transmission in the strut on the far side of the bird.
 
Lately, I'm finding that the DJI GO app FPV will also break up, rather than go or stay completely off, too, especially as it comes back, after loss. Even rotating the aircraft in place can help restore FPV, as sometimes the camera itself is blocking the needed FPV antenna transmission in the strut on the far side of the bird.
Interesting. It seems to be an all or nothing experience (iPhone 6S or iPad 4 mini) for me. I can pretty much tell when the GO app will crap out. And yes, sometimes rotating the P3 or just waiting a bit can help. In my typical flying area - a 'precipitating marine environment' just bands of fog or drizzle can change receptivity dramatically.
 
Interesting. It seems to be an all or nothing experience (iPhone 6S or iPad 4 mini) for me. I can pretty much tell when the GO app will crap out. And yes, sometimes rotating the P3 or just waiting a bit can help. In my typical flying area - a 'precipitating marine environment' just bands of fog or drizzle can change receptivity dramatically.
I'm using an iPad Air 2 and a Mini 4 in similar conditions, too. My FPV losses are all elevation and obstruction related, as I like to fly as low as possible from 3 miles away, so elevating even 10 feet can restore FPV, if I go too low, and when it comes back, it breaks up at first, and then comes in solidly. It is frustrating how marine conditions can vary from day to day, and hour to hour, significantly affecting the FPV signal strength in the exact same spot. All part of the challenge! :cool:
 

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