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Repairs to Phantom

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Patdji, Jan 9, 2016.

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  1. Patdji

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    My phantom 2 lost reception over the water and went into the water. It was under water for about 8 hrs before I could recover it. I removed the battery and let it dry out for over 2 weeks over a heater vent before trying to test it. Two of the lifts under the propellers work but that's all.

    Is it worth replacing the circuit boards to fix it? Other than frying some parts it looks brand new, all the wiring is fine.

    Has anybody replaced the circuit boards on a drone or should I just buy another one?

    Pat
     
  2. J Dot

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    Hello Pat,
    It is easy to repair! Diagnosing the problems is the hard part!
    Fresh water ( I hope )?
    Saltwater can wreak havoc on circuitry! Corrode stuff you cannot see!
    But fresh water you stand a much better chance for salvage!

    Do you have soldering experience?
    At least a little , as you'll need to UN-Solder, and resolder those joints!
    Other connection is only a plug!

    I'm assuming your talking about the esc's! The boards in the arms!

    First make sure you buy same VERSION ones either 2.0 or 2.1.
    Do not mix match, secondly TAKE PICTURES, before you do anything, then use pics as reference when you reassemble the new ones! You will have the 2 mainboard joints, and the 3 motor joints to solder/desolder! Just watch motor wire placement, you should be fine, if you can solder, it is a breeze!

    I built a complete phantom out of spare parts once, check out my post in p2v discussion, complete built out of parts!

    I know you can do it, worth a try, before forking out the squid for a new one! Parts are cheap!

    J Dot

    Keep us updated!
     
    #2 J Dot, Jan 9, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2016
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  3. Patdji

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    That's great news! I do know how to solder and own a solder gun. Do I buy the parts I need directly from dji or can I get them from Amazon.

    Also does dji have an exploded schematic diagram of how it's wired and the circuit boards I need to replace?

    Thanks, Pat


    Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots mobile app
     
  4. J Dot

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    You can buy replacement parts, pretty much anywhere! I use classifieds here, and also craigslist, eBay, Amazon, local hobby, ect! I price shop a lot, as I'm always tearing stuff apart! Lol, I love it, plus you'll learn a lot more about your craft, by doodling around with it!
    There are only a few MAIN components!
    1) your MAIN BOARD, this is the LARGE flat board under the lid of your bird ( the NAZA-m unit ) sits a top of it.
    2) RECEIVER BOARD , sits just under main board ( right side, if front facing away from you )
    3) ESC's ( electronic speed controls )
    There are ( 4 ) all the same! If craft is older they are version 2.0, if craft is newer they are v2.1. The 2.1 say it on the white label on esc. Make sure they stay the same, or you'll have a very WIERD startup! Happened to me! Lol Muhaha ha ha!
    Then the MOTORS, but as long as you put a bit of oil on the bearings or replace them, motors should be fine!
    So
    I'm not sure what you toasted? Could be only a esc, or could be a lot of stuff?

    First does it come on at all?
    If so what is it doing exactly?
    Do you get the red-yellow-green gimmick with the doodle-doodle -doo-beep-beep-beep-beep?
    What are each arm doing light wise?

    If it starts up with turning on battery, I'd first hook to PC do a advanced IMU calibration, then a fresh compass calibration, after that try to engage motors, make note of which work and which do not, I'd start with the esc on motors that don't start, or act erratic! Your receiver board is fine if remote still make contact to craft like doing the CSC, to start motors!
    Worst case new main board, and 4 esc's best case a bad esc or 2?
    You'll have to check it out.
    Do you have a volt meter?
    You can also check voltages at solder points ( take note the clear coat the joints ) so you'll have to scratch it a bit to get connection. You should have 11.1v at main board and 5.v at esc's if not main board may be bad?

    But that is how I do it!
    When you do repair follow these guidelines!
    1) hook Tx to RC ASSISTANT, do FULL calibration, both sticks, toggles, dial wheel ( if avail )
    2) hook bird to PC ASSISTANT, do full calibration on Tx again here ( RC assistant calibrates sticks, toggles, dial wheel to Tx, PC assistant calibrates Tx to bird )
    3) do ADVANCED IMU calibration ( bird STABLE, LEVEL ALL DIRECTIONS )
    4) take outside, do fresh COMPASS CALIBRATION!

    If all goes well ( I know it will ) you should have a shinny, stable, beautiful new bird!

    I'd be glad to help if you need guidance! I have never found a schematic, I take lots of pictures, and look back as reference!

    Lastly
    Motors are all the same ( only different bell ) cw or ccw motor base are all the same only tops different
    And wired different

    Esc's all the same only wired different!

    Hope this helps!

    J Dot
     
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  5. Patdji

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    J Dot,

    This is all great info.

    I got to take it apart and get into and then I'm sure I will have more questions but you gave me plenty to get started with.

    Thanks, Pat
     
  6. J Dot

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    :cool:
    J Dot
     
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  7. dirkclod

    dirkclod Moderator
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    the rock..nod.gif
     
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