Real reason for P3P $799 Price

I have a similar question @GadgetGuy...
Say we have a GL300C and use a FPVLR V2 wouldnt the only downside be something like the SNR?
I mean the booster boosts based on the AMP outputs no?

Whats the output power on the FPVLR V2?

Which do you have? The Advanced kit?
Yes, I have the advanced FPVLR v2 kit with the boosters. The problem is that the original video signal itself can't be properly boosted from the transmitter alone. The videoside amp on the transmitter is really just a powerful hearing aid. It amplifies the noise as well as the video, and makes both louder. So, yes, the SNR is the problem. There is only so much that it can do. It's much better to have more power coming from the aircraft in the first place. Hence, the great video performance of the .746 Watt emitting W323 bird! I haven't measured the FPVLR V2 power output yet, but it's plenty for control out to 8-9 miles with clear LOS.
 
Some...
of you may have had a chance to see now how DJI likes to not leak details on "when-where-and what" going on in the DJI world. Most of us that has owned DJI products for some time have picked up on DJI's habits which gives us some idea that things are being prepared to soon take place. We generally don't know exactly what it is, but most of the time at least know some thing is in the works.

I have found it to be unusual that the price of the P3P has recently has dropped to as much as $799 in such a short time.

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They want the stock of the P3's off the shelf for a reason. Anyone with half a business mind knows you don't release a new product and then up-sale it by dropping to a blow out price on one of your other products. DJI has auctioned P3 "Lots" to so-called dealers at a fire sale price who are obviously making money with them other wise they wouldn't get involved. And again, this is for a reason.

View attachment 46192

I feel like it is finally for the kickass Concept-X we were given a sneak peak on back this past November. It was said the only thing holding it up was the addition of Collision Avoidance, which as we all know was just made available on the P4.

This my peeps will be one badass mofo!


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Totally autonomous flying? Where's the fun in that. It's like flying an airplane and not being in it.
 
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Tony that all seems to depend on your low battery warning setting & how much effort it made getting out there. The battery warning defaults to 30%. I dropped mine to 20% & may go even lower. What I DON'T like is the hard "auto-land @ 10%" setting. I would really like to be able to lower that down to 5%.

Old print. Same thing on my box. But I went 12k last night and got s warning that battery was low even at 68% left. So I came back home. Now I will just calculate based on time 9 mins about is far as I will go regardless of distance.


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There is a thrill involved in planning & programming your aircraft to go off & perform a mission all on its own, often beyond range of the remote or automatically focusing on certain things along the flight route. I have numerous missions setup in Litchi just waiting for the right moment. I usually like to perform recon prior to launching a mission to verify obstuctions & required altitude along the flight route. Different strokes...

Give me a hydrogen cell capable of 2-4 hours of flight & I am going to REALLY have a blast! :cool:

Totally autonomous flying? Where's the fun in that. It's like flying an airplane and not being in it.
 
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Tony that all seems to depend on your low battery warning setting & how much effort it made getting out there. The battery warning defaults to 30%. I dropped mine to 20% & may go even lower. What I DON'T like is the hard "auto-land @ 10%" setting. I would really like to be able to lower that down to 5%.
Me, too! I'd even like to be able to turn it off completely! With external batteries, at 0%, you still have another 20-30 seconds left before total shutoff. Might need that last few seconds to maneuver prevent a water landing! Even if you reduce the low battery warning to 15% (the lowest), the lights on the aircraft still change from green to flashing red, at 20%.
 
Yes, I have the advanced FPVLR v2 kit with the boosters. The problem is that the original video signal itself can't be properly boosted from the transmitter alone. The videoside amp on the transmitter is really just a powerful hearing aid. It amplifies the noise as well as the video, and makes both louder. So, yes, the SNR is the problem. There is only so much that it can do. It's much better to have more power coming from the aircraft in the first place. Hence, the great video performance of the .746 Watt emitting W323 bird! I haven't measured the FPVLR V2 power output yet, but it's plenty for control out to 8-9 miles with clear LOS.
So question...
If you were faced with choosing the W323A with the GL300B or the W323B with the GL300C which would you go for? Don't say the W323 lol, just between the two.
I see that the FCC docs do not show the deletes between the GL300B and the GL300C like they do for the latter.
They also don't have all the documents for the W323B either.



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So question...
If you were faced with choosing the W323A with the GL300B or the W323B with the GL300C which would you go for? Don't say the W323 lol, just between the two.
I see that the FCC docs do not show the deletes between the GL300B and the GL300C like they do for the latter.
They also don't have all the documents for the W323B either.



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Definitely the W323A with the GL300B. New motors and only 18% less video range than the W323, and no power penalty on the transmitter over the GL300A, unlike the W323B and the GL300C which take an additional hit on both, and are the worst, in terms of power output on both! If you want the best for long range, find a lightly used W323 with a GL300A. Plenty now for sale! Better than a brand new W323B with a GL300C. You will sacrifice a few minutes of flight time on old motors, but what good is extra flight time, if you sacrifice video stability beyond 2-3 miles?
 
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5 days after I bought my P3P for $999 they dropped the price and released the 4, just my luck. That's what I get for being new to the drone world I guess.


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Your not the only one, I actually bought mine from a authorized DJI retailer for 999 and came with hardshell backpack and extra battery. I thought I was getting a great deal, at the time it actually was. 2 weeks later they announced the P4, im not to upset though, I would still have had to pay 400 more and also get an extra battery and the backpack. I would have spent around 700 more then I did. So is obstacle avoidance worth 700? I guess that is the question, at least for me. I'm happy with what I got and will eventually upgrade, at least now I have something to look forward to and will have a cool Phantom to give to my son when I eventually get it.


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Definitely the W323A with the GL300B. New motors and only 18% less video range than the W323, and no power penalty on the transmitter over the GL300A, unlike the W323B and the GL300C which take an additional hit on both, and are the worst, in terms of power output on both! If you want the best for long range, find a lightly used W323 with a GL300A. Plenty now for sale! Better than a brand new W323B with a GL300C. You will sacrifice a few minutes of flight time on old motors, but what good is extra flight time, if you sacrifice video stability beyond 2-3 miles?
Do you know of any other differences between the W323B w/C transmitter and the W323A with the B transmitter?

Again there are not many docs on this so what is only confirmed is the power output. I heard that the video processor was changed in one and also heard that the USB was changed in another.

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Do you know of any other differences between the W323B w/C transmitter and the W323A with the B transmitter?

Again there are not many docs on this so what is only confirmed is the power output. I heard that the video processor was changed in one and also heard that the USB was changed in another.

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Not aware of any other changes that affect my type of flying and video. Both of the changes you mentioned may be true, but neither are important enough to me to give up the extra video range. To me, that is THE most important factor. If I can't see the frame, I can't control its composition, and I hate flying totally blind 3 miles away! That is truly UNSAFE and RECKLESS flying!:eek:
 
Not aware of any other changes that affect my type of flying and video. Both of the changes you mentioned may be true, but neither are important enough to me to give up the extra video range. To me, that is THE most important factor. If I can't see the frame, I can't control its composition, and I hate flying totally blind 3 miles away! That is truly UNSAFE and RECKLESS flying!:eek:
So could you summarize what has the best range vs what is the newest? I kinda lost track after so much back and forth on what's better.


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i think some people are getting P3 4K and the pro mixed up cause i couldn't find no P3P for $799


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So could you summarize what has the best range vs what is the newest? I kinda lost track after so much back and forth on what's better.
I believe the best way to summarize is: if you're not looking to mod your TX (for greater distance) and potentially your bird as well (extra batteries to support the greater distances), any of the three versions are fine - including the latest W323B & GL300C pairing. If however you are planning to mod your TX, the earliest version is best - W323 & GL300A - referring specifically to the birds live video feed strength. Second best option for TX mod: W323A & GL300B.
 

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