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Quick motor replacement question!

Discussion in 'Phantom 2 Discussion' started by Jesseteeters, Mar 2, 2015.

  1. Jesseteeters

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    hey guys,

    A friend accidentally screwed a long prop guard screw into the bottom of my back left (CW) motor of my phantom 2. I now need to replace that motor. I bought the P2 in January so it has the upgraded motors, controllers, and remote. Can anyone confirm that I need the 2312 960 KV motor to match my current stock motors? Thanks!
     
  2. terrylowe

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    This is copied and pasted of my invoice when I ordered the upgraded motors from DroneFly. P2-Motor-CW-P12 Phantom 2 Motor (CW) 2312/940KV Part 12
     
  3. Jesseteeters

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    So, looks like I have the correct one. Thanks so much!
     
  4. Hughie

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    Remember that although there is no electrical difference between them, the ones that spin CW have coloured shafts. So if I was changing one I would get the right coloured stud. They do have different part numbers (part 11 and part 12).

    Take a photo of the wiring before you desolder, or if in doubt, resolder it like the arm opposite.
     
  5. N017RW

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    Good stuff.

    Also for future reference... if you ever have a situation where for some reason your BLDC motor spins opposite the desired direction, just swap any two motor leads to the ESC.

    In the case of the Phantom though thread direction is what determines the proper rotation direction.
     
  6. dirkclod

    dirkclod Moderator
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    Your friend eh ;) ;)
    Welcome to the forum :D
     
  7. Hughie

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    Great point, I forgot to emphasise the important of the thread direction in my post.
     
  8. Jesseteeters

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    Thanks again guys. Quick follow up. Anyone have a recommendation for what type of solder and soldering iron to use? I read they use pretty heavy duty stuff and maybe a 25W iron would be best. Thoughts?
     
  9. Hughie

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    25W will do it.

    One important bit of advice is that if you are soldering a Phantom ESC, dont try to do it with it screwed in. You will very likely touch the edge of the quad shell and put a melt mark in it.

    The best approach is to take the two screws out and recover the LED cover before it drops, and then lift the ESC up a little and push a piece of thick card about 3" square in between the quad arm and the ESC. This will protect the quad shell from damage from the iron.

    When refitting the screwed make sure they are nipped up - but dont overtighten!
     
  10. Jesseteeters

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