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Question for Hunch or burlbark, re: replacing V3.0 motor wire

Discussion in 'Phantom 2 Vision + Help' started by Monkeyleg, Jun 5, 2015.

  1. Monkeyleg

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    In the thread from January about the thin motor wires on the v3.0 Phantoms shorting out, you say that you're replacing the factory wire with something larger.

    I'm curious just how close to the motors you get when you cut the thin wire and attach it to the thicker wire.

    Thanks for any reply.
     
    Colbycheese08 likes this.
  2. sdtag

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    yes I would like to know also. How close and what gauge wire? I assume copper stranded.
    In the wonderful world of factory machine automation and robotics, when we expect movement and need to run wires through a moving assembly, we add extra wire to allow for the movement and if there is a lot of movement and we have the room we will loop the wires to spread the force out. I doubt if we need to make loops in the arms but some extra wire to allow for movement might be a good thing. On the other hand too much wire might vibrate and eventually short.
    On the esc I wonder if there are any traces on the back side where the 3 motor wires solder to? It would be nice to drill a hole next to each solder pad and loop the wire and solder it instead of laying it on a pad and soldering it. That way if it overheats and de-solders itself, it might solder itself back when it cools. haha
     
  3. Monkeyleg

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    I went ahead and cut the motor wires as close to the motor body as possible. The insulated wires go up into the motor to connect to the windings, but there's not enough room for anything thicker than the 22 gauge wire that comes with the motor.

    I used 18 gauge stranded wire. I soldered it to the pads on the new boards. The connections seem very secure. I'm not so sure about the solder joints for the coax leads for the power supply to the ESC. I'm going to re-do those.

    I can't believe the factory motor wires. Two strands in the plastic sheath, each .018" in diameter. I've seen wristwatches with heavier wiring. On top of that, they have a coating that needs to be sanded off, as solder won't take to it. Sand too hard and the delicate little wires will snap off.
     
  4. hunch

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  5. hunch

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  6. hunch

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  7. hunch

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  8. hunch

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  9. hunch

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  10. Monkeyleg

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    Thanks, Hunch.
     
  11. marg2

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    Going to do mine this weekend any advice?
     
  12. mad in nc

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    take your time, do only one motor at a time.... and make sure you get the coating off the solid wire....
     
  13. marg2

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    Hunch pm with your info got good references from your work your email will be handy soon
    Mariano
     
  14. hunch

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  15. marg2

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  16. Monkeyleg

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    marg2, I'm guessing you didn't get all of the coating off the wires, as mad in nc suggested above.

    Sand the bare wires lightly with a 400 or so grit paper. You'll see a lighter shade of copper where it's been sanded. The darker shade still has the coating.
     
  17. marg2

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    will try thanks
    Mariano
     
  18. marg2

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    Ok guy's went with Esc motor wiring and wifi module artic silver so i can have a real version 3 ImageUploadedByPhantomPilots1435425067.315911.jpg ImageUploadedByPhantomPilots1435425093.276351.jpg
    Silver not ready yet what else I need ImageUploadedByPhantomPilots1435425238.183519.jpg