I don't think thats a set rule. I've flown my friends Inspire 1 into sunrise / sunset who has an ND UV filter and it came out pretty amazing after slight colour correction tweaks.
Polar Pro ND and Polarizer build Impression
- Thread starter Steezynickel
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I don't think thats a set rule. I've flown my friends Inspire 1 into sunrise / sunset who has an ND UV filter and it came out pretty amazing after slight colour correction tweaks.
The camera on the Inspire is nowhere near the props because the landing gear raises so you wouldn't get any flickering or light reflections.
I know. See my earlier post "(as the props will still cast a shadow on the lens)."
My response (as quoted) was replying to you stating that:
"Why would you be flying directly into the sun in the first place it will either overexpose or underexpose the shot."
Which is simply untrue, you can get good shots pointing at the sun depending on a few variables (time of day, conditions, filter, exposure / shutter / iso, etc.) which has nothing to do with the lack of prop shadow / the Inspire's camera position.
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There is a trick. It needs constant and EQUAL pressure around the perimeter. Put some thin dbl stick tape around the bezel, then put a zip tie around that and pull it snug..then using equal pressure, turn it CCW! Worked for me
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Uh, you turn it Counter Clockwise to get the filters off and Clockwise to put them on.
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Tested the ND8 and CP. The glass is sharp and clean. And I've not yet seen indications of color shift. The biggest disappointment is that the CP doesn't rotate independently after threaded on. You have to thread it on just enough and stop when the CP gets in the sweet spot. The gimbal doesn't seem to struggle with the extra 2 g of weight. But I do wish the aluminum was machined a little thinner like the stock UV filter as it is noticeably heavier.
The overall build of the filters is "okay." The anodizing of the aluminum makes it difficult to fully align the threads and seat the filter. It almost feels like the threads are a slightly different ratio. I've tried all three. And you can see a little bit of glue seepage around the edges where the lens is seated in the filter ring. Kind of sloppy manufacturing in my humble opinion - but doesn't seem to interfere with the lens' field of view...so no biggie.
I only had time to do a couple of quick tests. But the bottom line is they are clean and sharp. I was able to get my shutter speed down to 60 or 50 so it not only eliminates any hint of jello but also gives a very cinematic, organic feel and movement. I'm happy.
The overall build of the filters is "okay." The anodizing of the aluminum makes it difficult to fully align the threads and seat the filter. It almost feels like the threads are a slightly different ratio. I've tried all three. And you can see a little bit of glue seepage around the edges where the lens is seated in the filter ring. Kind of sloppy manufacturing in my humble opinion - but doesn't seem to interfere with the lens' field of view...so no biggie.
I only had time to do a couple of quick tests. But the bottom line is they are clean and sharp. I was able to get my shutter speed down to 60 or 50 so it not only eliminates any hint of jello but also gives a very cinematic, organic feel and movement. I'm happy.
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Steezynickel, in my tests it seems that -2 sharpness gets rid of most of the aliasing but at the cost of a big hit to detail levels. Adding in some post sharpening brings back the aliasing artifacts and does not add very much detail. It also seems that -1 sharpness is good for delivering detail, but the aliasing is a little too high. Do you think the added motion blur will be enough to cover up these aliasing issues?
-1 sharpness has worked for me without any issues and having the slower shutter speed should help with motion blur. I noticed that with the inspire 1 settings of Log, -1 sharpness, -2 contrast, -1 saturation look really good in post with the Neumann Films LUT's
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Update on my Polar Pro Phantom 3 filters.
I was a little over zealous in my first impressions. I simply can't get these to seat fully on the camera. Nothing works. I've repeatedly tried the 3in1 oil, wiping and cleaning. Still can't turn or tighten the filter on past about 1/4 of a full rotation and it gets "snug". (The stock UV filter takes at least 4 full 360º turns before it's fully seated.) Was advised my customer support to give it a good firm twist to break it in and after that it should be ok. I did that. Didn't work and it was a bear to get back off. Didn't want to risk ruining the threads on the camera so I left well enough alone. Feels like I'm cross-threading the filter to the camera. Lots of threads left on the camera so the balance is worse since the heavier PP filter is hanging out about 1/8 inch farther out than it should.
To be honest I could probably live with the ND’s because the do “get tight” I guess. BUT the biggest issue is the CP. As with any CP it has a sweet spot. I rotate the filter while looking through it at the sky until I see the change. Holding that position I mark the very top center of the filter with a pencil. Now I’ll know exactly how to place it on the camera, rotating until that mark is exactly dead center on top. Since I can’t rotate past a 1/4 full turn when the threads catch, the filter won't keep turning around to get to that optimal mark….rendering the CP useless I’m afraid.
I've emailed customer support again. BTW... Their customer support has been fantastic. Never waited longer than 5-6 hours before I get a reply.
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Have you figured out how to remove the flashing/strobing effect yet? I'm having the same thing on my videos.
with all this talk of settings I would assume that just leaving it in auto is not a good idea?
PJ... they are intended for videography solely but can't hurt stills... when you are filming at 24 fps and looking to get that cinematic look and feel, the ND's are an absolute requirement. Go with the darkest filter, the ND8 on bright sunny days, step down to the ND4 on cloudy days and at dusk or indoor, no filter is needed. Your video will improve greatly as the shutter speed is adjusted to get rid of the "blur" and will also help if your props get in the shot, as the filters when they step down the cam, will cause the props to wash away to a large degree... BTW... go with Auto, unless your are trying to capture a specific effect and don't want the camera adjusting as the light changes...
I was literally just about to make a post asking if snake river will be making a ND filter for the p3. I was just on their website and didnt see any products for the P3. Link please?
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