Picture Resolution

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Can anyone give me advice on what settings I need in order to get the highest picture (snapshot) resolution?
 
Can anyone give me advice on what settings I need in order to get the highest picture (snapshot) resolution?
In the app, click on menu above the camera controls and in Image Size, select 4:3
That will give you 4000 x 3000 pixels
i-tpB8F2J-L.png
 
Ok thanks. Does the picture (snapshot) quality get effected by the video quality you're shooting? ie. Should I be in 4K?
 
If you have the software to handle them, shoot raw or raw+jpeg. Raw files loose no quality when editing and resaving them like jpegs do.

Also, if you are shooting raw, turn the sharpness to -2, contrast to -3 and saturation to -2. Shoot in D-LOG. That will give what I think is the best quality out of the bird. The image won't look impressive straight out but you can adjust it to your liking in Lighrroom, Bridge, PS or whatever else you got that handles raw images. These settings minimize both black and white clipping.

And don't worry about the sharpness going negative. You are NOT REMOVING sharpness, you are telling the processor in the bird NOT to add so **** much (-3 is actually no sharpening). Sharpening, ones added, can't be easily taken away. All the apps I mentioned above have FAR better sharpening algorythms than the Phantom does.

As shot from the P3 (with above settings):


Only minor changes in Lightroom:





Again, as shot from the P3:


And after only minor changes:
 
If you have the software to handle them, shoot raw or raw+jpeg. Raw files loose no quality when editing and resaving them like jpegs do.

Also, if you are shooting raw, turn the sharpness to -2, contrast to -3 and saturation to -2. Shoot in D-LOG. That will give what I think is the best quality out of the bird. The image won't look impressive straight out but you can adjust it to your liking in Lighrroom, Bridge, PS or whatever else you got that handles raw images. These settings minimize both black and white clipping.

And don't worry about the sharpness going negative. You are NOT REMOVING sharpness, you are telling the processor in the bird NOT to add so **** much (-3 is actually no sharpening). Sharpening, ones added, can't be easily taken away. All the apps I mentioned above have FAR better sharpening algorythms than the Phantom does.

As shot from the P3 (with above settings):


Only minor changes in Lightroom:





Again, as shot from the P3:


And after only minor changes:
That's great advice and examples. I've just started experimenting with RAW images so I'm excited to try this. Do RAW images actually capture more detail because they're uncompressed? Or do they just capture "everything" in terms of light which allows you to manipulate the lighting better in software?
 
RAW images are exactly that. Its the raw data right from the sensor before its down sampled, mixed, and compressed by the processor. Jpeg file format is a loss type format. That means that every time you open and save it, even if you did absolutely nothing to it, you force the loss of data because it will re-compress it. And to re-compress it, the algorithm tosses out data. It will continue to get worse and worse with each open and save. Like making a xerox of an original. Then xeroxing the xerox, and again xeroxing that xerox again. Each time it gets worse.

Never use Jpeg until you actually output the final image.

RAW is a zero loss file type. It also carries much more information than most image formats do. I don't know the bit depth for the DNG out of the Phantom but most RAW files carry 12 bit, 16bit or 32bits of channel data per color channel.

If, for example the DNG from the P3 is a 16bit DNG, its capable of storing 65,535 distinct levels of red, jpeg being only 8bit can only hold 256 levels of red data (even if it was not lossy compression). Even a 12bit DNG is capable of 4,096 levels of red. And that goes for each of the other color channels too.

This level of data storage is why you are able to shoot in raw and then in post dramatically alter the image in color balance or using levels and whatnot, there is simply way more data there to work with.
 
If you have the software to handle them, shoot raw or raw+jpeg. Raw files loose no quality when editing and resaving them like jpegs do.

Also, if you are shooting raw, turn the sharpness to -2, contrast to -3 and saturation to -2. Shoot in D-LOG. That will give what I think is the best quality out of the bird. The image won't look impressive straight out but you can adjust it to your liking in Lighrroom, Bridge, PS or whatever else you got that handles raw images. These settings minimize both black and white clipping.

And don't worry about the sharpness going negative. You are NOT REMOVING sharpness, you are telling the processor in the bird NOT to add so **** much (-3 is actually no sharpening). Sharpening, ones added, can't be easily taken away. All the apps I mentioned above have FAR better sharpening algorythms than the Phantom does.

As shot from the P3 (with above settings):


Only minor changes in Lightroom:





Again, as shot from the P3:


And after only minor changes:
When you work in RAW why setting sharpness to -2 or -3? The sharpness adjustments only apply to the jpeg file and not the RAW. The RAW file is as is from the sensor. I read about people using the D-Log setting for color.....again in RAW it should not make a difference, for jpegs I prefer no specific setting for color.
 
For the jpeg. I shoot raw + jpeg that way I have a backup in case there is something wrong with the DNG. Also, the jpeg is the preview so I get a good preview thats not blown to hell and isn't sharpened like a chef's cleaver.

Also, since there is no raw for video, I use the same settings on video. I know they are separate settings but its easier on the brain to deal with all of it set similar and I get similar results.
 

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