Here’s how I modded my (first gen) P2 to fit an H3-3D.
You don’t have to do it this way and there are other walkthroughs about to also use / consider. Like here.
(A) Marking the hole
Attach the dampening plate using a couple of screws to get it in the right place. Mark the hole, I used a permanent thin nib marker, like you used to use to write on CD’s (do what?! ; )
(B) Drilling some holes
I opted to use a Dremel with a small drill bit to punch through some holes. Rather then the pain of disassembling the guts, I make a battery sized box with an open top to slide in and catch the shrapnel. Also had a hover handy to suck up bits.
Obviously take it steadfast if you leave the guts in, you can easily hack into your USB port wires with the drill if you’re not careful.
btw. I used some pliers to carefully pirse out the metal thread at the nose-end.
It won’t win any product design awards, but it does the job. Make sure you’ve smoothed out all the edges (I used a Dremel sanding bit -which looks like a cartoon rocket tip- to smooth the edges). Also ensure the top axis gimbal servo housing has breathing space. If you cut the hole as pictured it should be fine.
(C) Spacers
I was surprised to read that some people didn't use spacers. If you don’t the top axis gimbal servo housing will definitely not have enough play. You should be able to push the completed gimbal up so the dampening balls can absorb at least 1/3 of their height.
While slightly inelegant, the spacers I used work well. The plastic ones are form some skateboard truck spares. The metal are just some I had lying about. As long as you tighten the bolts nicely, it’s solid as a rock.
With spacers in situ, none of the original screws will be long enough. Luckily these M3*8 bolts are perfect for the job.
(D) Interference Board
Whether it does anything or not (in my experience it does jack all) it’s down to you if you want to fit this. It fits into the inside well. I had to reroute the original longer ribbon wire through the hole shown in order to get it to reach the gimbal port.
I followed the DJI video for the plug order. Basically the one that goes into the main board goes at the bottom, and the one to the gimbal to the top of the IFB (next to the capacitor).
(E) Securing Pins
Throw the clear plastic securing pins in the bin. They are a f**ing ball ache. I made the mistake of fitting one, which was then extremely hard to remove. I had to bend it with a pair of pliers which was seriously awkward.
Just use some plastic ties (with a single metal wire inside). Very easy to take off, and plenty secure enough.
Job done. More info about ND filters and other stuff can be found on my posts here:
New H3-3D Install - Not Level + Flight Test & Notes
How I balanced the Polar Pro ND Filter [video]
Best of luck, fly safe friends
You don’t have to do it this way and there are other walkthroughs about to also use / consider. Like here.
(A) Marking the hole
Attach the dampening plate using a couple of screws to get it in the right place. Mark the hole, I used a permanent thin nib marker, like you used to use to write on CD’s (do what?! ; )
(B) Drilling some holes
I opted to use a Dremel with a small drill bit to punch through some holes. Rather then the pain of disassembling the guts, I make a battery sized box with an open top to slide in and catch the shrapnel. Also had a hover handy to suck up bits.
Obviously take it steadfast if you leave the guts in, you can easily hack into your USB port wires with the drill if you’re not careful.
btw. I used some pliers to carefully pirse out the metal thread at the nose-end.
It won’t win any product design awards, but it does the job. Make sure you’ve smoothed out all the edges (I used a Dremel sanding bit -which looks like a cartoon rocket tip- to smooth the edges). Also ensure the top axis gimbal servo housing has breathing space. If you cut the hole as pictured it should be fine.
(C) Spacers
I was surprised to read that some people didn't use spacers. If you don’t the top axis gimbal servo housing will definitely not have enough play. You should be able to push the completed gimbal up so the dampening balls can absorb at least 1/3 of their height.
While slightly inelegant, the spacers I used work well. The plastic ones are form some skateboard truck spares. The metal are just some I had lying about. As long as you tighten the bolts nicely, it’s solid as a rock.
With spacers in situ, none of the original screws will be long enough. Luckily these M3*8 bolts are perfect for the job.
(D) Interference Board
Whether it does anything or not (in my experience it does jack all) it’s down to you if you want to fit this. It fits into the inside well. I had to reroute the original longer ribbon wire through the hole shown in order to get it to reach the gimbal port.
I followed the DJI video for the plug order. Basically the one that goes into the main board goes at the bottom, and the one to the gimbal to the top of the IFB (next to the capacitor).
(E) Securing Pins
Throw the clear plastic securing pins in the bin. They are a f**ing ball ache. I made the mistake of fitting one, which was then extremely hard to remove. I had to bend it with a pair of pliers which was seriously awkward.
Just use some plastic ties (with a single metal wire inside). Very easy to take off, and plenty secure enough.
Job done. More info about ND filters and other stuff can be found on my posts here:
New H3-3D Install - Not Level + Flight Test & Notes
How I balanced the Polar Pro ND Filter [video]
Best of luck, fly safe friends
