P4P maps question

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Ever since owning my P4P, the maps in the bottom right corner seem to be locked. I remember with my P4 it showed a line trail, and proper map as to where the phantom flew. It was very handy when flying home. I have included a screen shot of what I am talking about. I am sure it is an easy fix, however I am not sure how to get them back as per the P4. I am using an iPad mini with cellular connection.

97fffcecc165a07d2b6fa37943e9b7b2.jpg


Cheers


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Ever since owning my P4P, the maps in the bottom right corner seem to be locked. I remember with my P4 it showed a line trail, and proper map as to where the phantom flew. It was very handy when flying home. I have included a screen shot of what I am talking about. I am sure it is an easy fix, however I am not sure how to get them back as per the P4. I am using an iPad mini with cellular connection.
Enable Show Flight Route in the app settings.
The layers icon in the upper left corner of the map window will let you choose map or aerial imagery.
The padlock/compass needle icon in upper right toggles between north up and track up for your map view.
Unfortunately we're stuck with the inferior Here Maps since DJI changed from the much better Google maps.

ps ... your camera is set to underexpose by 2 stops (EV-2.0).
If that wasn't intentional, everything will be very dark including your screen view.
 
Enable Show Flight Route in the app settings.
The layers icon in the upper left corner of the map window will let you choose map or aerial imagery.
The padlock/compass needle icon in upper right toggles between north up and track up for your map view.
Unfortunately we're stuck with the inferior Here Maps since DJI changed from the much better Google maps.

ps ... your camera is set to underexpose by 2 stops (EV-2.0).
If that wasn't intentional, everything will be very dark including your screen view.

Great, will change the setting and hopefully be a little more like the P4 maps, unfortunate about no longer running google maps.

As for the underexposure, I was just playing around with the settings (not what I normally shoot in)
Since we are in the topic, what settings do you shoot stills in?


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Unfortunately we're stuck with the inferior Here Maps since DJI changed from the much better Google maps.
I've been in a rural area for the last few days and man, the Here maps are dreadful (when you can even get them to download reliably that is.) Google is night-and-day better, immediate download and much more detail. if your particular mission needs the maps it's enough to make you use Litchi even for manual flying.
 
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I've been in a rural area for the last few days and man, the Here maps are dreadful (when you can even get them to download reliably that is.) Google is night-and-day better, immediate download and much more detail. if your particular mission needs the maps it's enough to make you use Litchi even for manual flying.
Man I thought maps sucked now compared to what I was used to with my 2 P4's I had. Thanks for the info on this smiller and Meta4.
 
Meta, since you are knowledgeable about maps. I thought there was a way to cache maps but I haven't quite figured it out. Found the option but not sure how to get it to cache areas away from my home where my internet connectivity is.
 
I never had any notable problems when flying my old P4 with a 3.something version of DJI go. It was one of the last for Android but not the very last.

Is there a widely considered 3.x "stable version" of GO that works fine with the P4P and includes the old google maps? I briefly tried Here maps before selling and agree it was awful.

Now with my P4P on the way I'm back looking for advice. Maybe just stick to the radar mode if nothing else? Not to hijack much further, but is there even a "best" 4.x version and firmware yet? I don't like feeling like a blind beta tester for DJI.
 
Is there a widely considered 3.x "stable version" of GO that works fine with the P4P and includes the old google maps? I briefly tried Here maps before selling and agree it was awful.
The P4P requires DJI GO 4 (vs. DJI GO) and unfortunately there are no older versions of DJI GO 4 that used Google Maps.

There is a trick that seems to work on Android devices... sometimes. You can go into the 'DJI' directory on your device (it's in the /sdcard folder or whatever your device calls it.) and delete the .HEREMAP subdirectory. Sometimes when you do this then DJI GO 4 subsequently starts up with Google Maps (yay!) Unfortunately more often it doesn't, rather it just re-creates the missing .HERE sundirectory upon startup (even if I force-quit the app first, etc.) So far I haven't been able to determine why the variation in behavior. I'm hoping I or someone else can figure out how to make this trick reliable because when it does work it's great to have Google Maps again!
 
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As for the underexposure, I was just playing around with the settings (not what I normally shoot in)
Since we are in the topic, what settings do you shoot stills in?
I'm a little different from many other users on the forum.
I shoot in jpg only and use all default settings in aperture priority at (mostly) ISO100.
The P4pro jpg files are very good and easily take any little editing needed.
I sometimes override the exposure to EV-0.3 or even EV-0.7 to keep highlights in bright sunny conditions.
And if it's an important shot, I use AEB3 to have a couple of options to play with.
 
Meta, since you are knowledgeable about maps. I thought there was a way to cache maps but I haven't quite figured it out. Found the option but not sure how to get it to cache areas away from my home where my internet connectivity is.
If you have an Apple device, you have to enable the app setting for Cache Maps in Background.
Then open your app, go to camera view ... Map view and find the area of interest.
Pan around at the detail level you want to use.
That's it - the maps should be cached and available to use next time you go flying.
 
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What?? Where's the fun without endless pixel-peeping? :D
Some people seem to enjoy that - I just enjoy great images.
Shooting raw is fine for very serious shooters but (I think) most users would still get great results with a lot less effort in jpg.
I hear that serious photographers would never shoot jpg and I just smile.
My photos show what is possible.
 
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If you have an Apple device, you have to enable the app setting for Cache Maps in Background.
Then open your app, go to camera view ... Map view and find the area of interest.
Pan around at the detail level you want to use.
That's it - the maps should be cached and available to use next time you go flying.
Did cache maps used to be set to on as default Meta4? Thx for this heads up man. This has to be why I have not been getting maps like usual I hope. lol
 
Enable Show Flight Route in the app settings.
The layers icon in the upper left corner of the map window will let you choose map or aerial imagery.
The padlock/compass needle icon in upper right toggles between north up and track up for your map view.
Unfortunately we're stuck with the inferior Here Maps since DJI changed from the much better Google maps.

ps ... your camera is set to underexpose by 2 stops (EV-2.0).
If that wasn't intentional, everything will be very dark including your screen view.

Still having the same problem. No line following the P4P on map.
Any other ideas???


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My photos show what is possible.

Meta4: At the risk of sounding didactic, pedantic, and probably old-fashioned, I'd change your last statement to: "My photos show what is possible with jpeg only." I'm probably like this because I'm a photographer first and a droner second. Of course your mileage may vary.

I've shot in jpeg, raw, and whatever else is out there; hell, I'm so old I've even shot in film! And, truth be told, I have on occasion, even shot myself in the foot!

One can indeed get great photos out of only the jpeg information, but you are handicapping yourself by throwing out, so, so, so much information. And why? Because you're satisfied with a computer's interpretation of your work.

It's like being a painter, but only using 4 tubes of paint when there are literally hundreds out there. It's like having a Beethoven symphony score in front of you, but you've decided, for expediency's, and cost's sake to use one violin, a cello and two oboes; hey, I can still recognize his 5th by those 4 first simple notes, so why pay for all those extra musicians -- **** musician's union! They'll drive me f...king broke!

I still do, on rare occasion, shoot in jpg if I'm in a hurry, and the end result is going to be used, say, only on the internet. But even then I shoot in jpg AND raw; just in case.

Just in case the shot is really great -- because I can then tweak it to its maximum, or, just in case the shot is bad, and I have to 'fix' it with aforesaid "pixel-peeping". This is particularly true with slight overexposure where some of the blown-out highlights can be saved in raw, or where the color temperature has to be altered. Changing color temperature in jpg is an exercise in futility -- although it can on occasion be successful.

I can just hear Ansel Adams turning over in his grave and saying, "I never pixel-peep in the dark-room. Whatever the film captures is good enough for me!"

With jpg, you are still pixel-peeping, but with that little computer in the camera doing your "pixel-peeping" for you.
Yes, you can still get good pictures out of a jpg file.


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Meta4: At the risk of sounding didactic, pedantic, and probably old-fashioned, I'd change your last statement to: "My photos show what is possible with jpeg only." I'm probably like this because I'm a photographer first and a droner second. Of course your mileage may vary.

I've shot in jpeg, raw, and whatever else is out there; hell, I'm so old I've even shot in film! And, truth be told, I have on occasion, even shot myself in the foot!

One can indeed get great photos out of only the jpeg information, but you are handicapping yourself by throwing out, so, so, so much information. And why? Because you're satisfied with a computer's interpretation of your work.

It's like being a painter, but only using 4 tubes of paint when there are literally hundreds out there. It's like having a Beethoven symphony score in front of you, but you've decided, for expediency's, and cost's sake to use one violin, a cello and two oboes; hey, I can still recognize his 5th by those 4 first simple notes, so why pay for all those extra musicians -- **** musician's union! They'll drive me f...king broke!

I still do, on rare occasion, shoot in jpg if I'm in a hurry, and the end result is going to be used, say, only on the internet. But even then I shoot in jpg AND raw; just in case.

Just in case the shot is really great -- because I can then tweak it to its maximum, or, just in case the shot is bad, and I have to 'fix' it with aforesaid "pixel-peeping". This is particularly true with slight overexposure where some of the blown-out highlights can be saved in raw, or where the color temperature has to be altered. Changing color temperature in jpg is an exercise in futility -- although it can on occasion be successful.

I can just hear Ansel Adams turning over in his grave and saying, "I never pixel-peep in the dark-room. Whatever the film captures is good enough for me!"

With jpg, you are still pixel-peeping, but with that little computer in the camera doing your "pixel-peeping" for you.
Yes, you can still get good pictures out of a jpg file.


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You are def right about Raw vs J-Peg IQ PixelDoc. But Meta4 is using what works for his needs. Yes, if you were going to blow one of these files up and print a 30x40 of it, you would def want to use the Raw file to start with. But most won't know the diff between Raw and J-Peg, especially on the internet and prob even up to a 16x20 print. I've been a full-time portrait pro for over 30 years now and had to shoot a lot of film! LOL. But I know of wedding photogs that shoot totally in J-Peg and are fine with it. Basically depends on how good your exposures are tbo. Because if your spot on with exposure that J-Peg is gonna be pretty darn good most of the time. But at the end of the day I'm **** like you PixelDoc and only shoot Raw no matter what because it's just part of my workflow anyway. I just Love to know that I am color tweaking and dodging and burning a file before it's ever processed too. But Meta4's pics look killer for sure.
 
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Still having the same problem. No line following the P4P on map.
Any other ideas???


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Hey Pilot ss, try zooming out on your map area and you will see the bird and the line. It is not centered by default now and it is hiding until you zoom out full screen. Try that man.
 

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