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P3A: W322A vs W322B?

Discussion in 'Pro/Adv Discussion' started by crazyrider, Jul 26, 2016.

  1. crazyrider

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    So Amazon sent me a replacement drone and it arrived today. The first thing I noticed is that the model is W322A whereas my older one is a W322B. Same deal with the RC: its is GL300B as opposed to GL300C for the older one (the older one P3A is only 3 weeks old)
    I tried to search but did not come up with any concrete evidence of a significant difference between the two. It would be great if someone could shed some light. In the meanwhile, I am also going to try and get in touch with DJI support.
    TIA!
     
  2. Dronason

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    From what I read in the forum the GL300B is the old good one compared to GL300C where I have seen some complains about its range. No idea for the P3A, mine is W322.
     
  3. robinb

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    The B had slightly changed motors style and a few tweaks on the plastic shell.
    There were playing around with rf power levels though most have said there is no difference in range etc.

    If you do a search there is lots of stuff on it, theories, conspiracies etc.
     
  4. Meta4

    Meta4 Moderator
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    This post explains the real differences - they aren't really significant.
    New or old motors phantom 3
     
  5. crazyrider

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    Thanks for the replies, guys!
    The thread does shed some light but like Meta4 pointed out, nothing significant,
    I also got in touch with DJI support and the rep told me that there is no difference.
    So what I have with me is a 3 week old P3A (W322B) which flies flawlessly but has had a minor crash (no damage to the body) and a NIB P3A (W322A) which is unused.
    I need to send one of them back to Amazon.
     
  6. WetDog

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    Of perhaps more importance is the drone's firmware. If you are of the paranoid persuasion and don't care for DJI's recent 'improvements' (GEO and other bits) and you have an older firmware loaded on the bird, you might consider that as a discriminator. I just picked up another P3P from B&H after crashing mine into the ocean (sigh....). It is a B version with the new motors but had the 1.4 software loaded. That version flies beautifully (but might not work with newer versions of Litchi and Autopilot, haven't checked). So I plan on leaving it alone for a while.
     
  7. z28lt1

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    Just wanted to post that I had the same experience as the OP, crazyrider. My initial P3A from Amazon was a W322B/GL300C, with 1.5.30+ firmware out of the box.

    My replacement was a W322A/GL300b with 1.3.20 firmware out of the box.

    It seems Amazon has some older stock for replacements or something. Interestingly enough, ALL of the stickers on the outside of the box (with serial numbers and barcodes and such) on the replacement were covered over with "blank" stickers. I'm wondering if the replacement might even be a refurb or something.

    I don't care much as long as it flies well. I'll know when everything is done charging.
     
  8. ElGuapo

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    How would I know what model I have ?
     
  9. crazyrider

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    I got in touch with amazon again and told them that I got an older model. Just wanted to see what they do in such scenarios. The agent took quite some time to 'research' and ultimately came back saying that I have to send both the drones back, so that they can verify and send the latest model. I said no thank you, I would like to keep my original item and send the replacement back. She apologized for the situation and gave me a 10% credit back. Talk about great customer service!

    There should be a sticker on the aircraft as well as the box near the barcodes.
     
  10. z28lt1

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    Thanks for your post, was curious as to which you kept. I'm in the same boat. I just took a quick flight around the backyard and didn't notice much difference between the two, although that is really good way to tell. I actually think my original (newer) model might have hovered a little better. I also had a minor incident and flip over with that original that I'm having the logs looked at, but it seems to be fine now. Trying to decide which one to keep as well. I may reach out to Amazon as well, thats a good idea. I don't need the credit, but if I'm keeping the original (newer) one they should know.

    And @ElGuapo as noted, yes, the model numbers should be on the RoHS sticker on the aircraft near the battery and on the bottom of the controller.
     
  11. crazyrider

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    Can you tell me how and what to look for in the logs?
     
  12. z28lt1

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    There are 2 log files, a .DAT file you get off the bird itself (connect to a PC and use the app to go into PC transfer mode) and a .txt file on your tablet/phone.

    There are a handful of utilities to help read the .txt file, depending upon what firmware you had. The easiest is to create a free account and upload to HealthyDrone.com (where you can then download a CSV file of the log). There is a utility for free called DatCon that gives some more information, but may not work with the latest firmware.

    For the .DAT file, DJI can look at all the details, so I've asked them to look at mine, but there are a few websites that will give you some of the data in there.

    What I was looking for during my "incident" was aircraft movement compared to controler request, as well as any warning messages/loss of satellites, etc. You can see much of that in the .txt file from healthydrones. I don't believe my incident was pilot error, so I'm looking for a reason my unit went totally sideways on takeoff.

    There are a number of threads on redaing the .txt file form tablet/phone and getting the .DAT file out of the unit, but if have questions as you go, feel free to ask.
     
  13. ElGuapo

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    Ah, Perfect thanks.

    AC = W323B
    RC = GL300C

    I wonder what my P3A advanced is ??. I will have to take a look when I get back from DJI. I received an email 30 minutes ago with tracking information, she is on her way home.

    I have to admit that DJI's warranty process was very responsive. The reason I am in shock in regard to their response time is due to the negative comments I have read in other threads.
    The AC was repaired and tested at no charge, warranty work. Here is the time line:
    This last Monday morning I received an email from DJI with a UPS label with return instructions. On that same day the unit was picked by the courier.
    On Tuesday the unit was received and checked in at DJI for analysis and repair.
    Wednesday and today Thursday the unit was repaired, tested and shipped. We will see when I receive it back.
     
  14. ddh1313

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    The W323A has significantly improved range and ability to punch signal through obstructions over the W323B. I have had both and base this opinion on comparison flights in identical locations and conditions. The original W323 should be best based on the numbers but I have not had that one.


    Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
     
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  15. WetDog

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    This is not a consistent observation. In numerous side to side comparisons all the RCs behave similarly. It is very easy to make a subjective and incorrect comparison and very, very hard to make an objective comparison that means something. The 'numbers' indicate very little difference between the RCs and in the mileau of the RC, aircraft and antennas likely doesn't amount for any major advantage or disadvantage.

    YMMV, non professional driver. Do not taunt happy fun ball.
     
    #15 WetDog, Aug 4, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2016
  16. ddh1313

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    One example test between my previous W323A (before it inexplicably went for a dive into a lake) and the warranty replacement W323B. <- Thank You DJI

    The numbers that I were referring to are the FCC power ratings... 0.612 W323A vs 0.520 W323B both for the AC. It's certainly a minor discrepancy but I'm thinking that it's relationship to the noise floor is such that a marginal power increase gets big results.


    W323A best performance:
    [​IMG]

    W323B best performance (note at a higher altitude):
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots
     
    #16 ddh1313, Aug 5, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2016
    Mark The Droner and Digdat0 like this.
  17. z28lt1

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    I just took my "A" in an area where I flew my "B" a few times to see if I would lose signal in the same places. This isn't a good place to do a distance run, as there are lots of trees between me and the unit. I fly above tree level, but I'm sure some of the signal is blocked.

    It seems like the Video signal lasted a little longer with the "A" than I had with the "B", but it wasn't a huge difference, and based off this one flight, not sure I could conclude much from it. I'll try one other location with the "A"where I have a known drop out point with the "B" and see what happens. Then I have to decide which one to send back.
     
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  18. robinb

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    The paper specs show a marginal better transmission power on the A over B.

    However I would say my B I have had go 4.5km in one direction without problem.
    That is probably enough for me as by time return trip is done the battery is getting low.
     
  19. massimo

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    Hi friends from Italy, I'm ready to buy my first P3A. In Italy some sellers shows the version W322B like the new and latest version of P3A with new motors and new cover more resistant, but many stores sell the P3A W322A normally.... so, there are some great differences? it's better to buy the W322B? For example Amazon sells P3A now (good price) but send A and B version casually... I asked to DJI but they don't know nothing !!! I find a second hand P3A (very good) but W322A...
    (excusme for my english)... Thank you.
     
  20. Meta4

    Meta4 Moderator
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    Perhaps the sellers are just using old pictures because they are very similar.
    The original design was replaced long ago and it is unlikely that any sellers still have stock that old.