Where did you get this info, or how did you come to this conclusion?
I can't find anything about this in the manual.
Old Motors vs. New Ones
- Thread starter dropabomb
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I can't find anything about this in the manual.
That makes sense too - the metal content is different to the original motor (I wasn't aware the motors actually get that hot)
I believe the structural integrity will be improved also
Oso
Premium Pilot
Does this thread align or conflict with your thoughts?
Cracking the P3 crack | Page 2 | DJI Phantom Forum
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It doesn't do either. However it doesn't even come close to the fact that using my infared thermometer, I have measured my P2 motor temperatures consistently higher than 120F. The P3 even higher. That photo doesn't show us how hot the motor gets. If the motor screws constantly heat up and expand and then contract after cooling, what would you guess is happening to the surrounding structure they are mounted in over time? Then we can introduce vibration from a prop not perfectly balanced and/or not tracking correctly, my guess is that something bad is going to happen eventually. Some flyers just hover around while others like to fly balls to wall. The effects of such can be totally different for each of them.
The bottom line for me is I like the looks of the new motors, that sure looks to me like they are making an effort to dissipate the heat before it reaches the plastic.
I wonder why they would do that?
Cheers
I have one P3P of each style and they both perform flawlessly. Go fly and don't worry about "new and improved" which sometimes means "less cost and more profit margin!"
Sent from my PT beating heart
Bought one yesterday from B&H Photo in NYC it has old motors. I am returning it thanks for posting this.
As has been been pointed out by at least a few people, whether you received one with the old motors main board, or the new, it really makes no difference. One is just as good as the other. There are more people with the "old" P3s, that have never had any problems, than there are people with the "new" P3s.
Before you ship it back, I'd suggest you first take a look at photos of the old & new motors, and compare them. If you do, you'll notice that, physically, the "old" motors have a stronger build. Put another way, even though the "new" motors might run cooler (although one person, having both, has found them to operate at almost thee same temperature), the metal "shell" of the motors is less substantial, and, thus, possibly not as physically strong.
A lot of people have come to the conclusion that the "new" motors, while cheaper to manufacture, might not hold up as well as the "old" motors. Just some things to think about before you ship the "old" P3 back, requesting a "new" one. What ever you decide...happy flying.
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I believe I bought your week old p3a! Saved me 250.00! Thanks!
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Pure speculation.
"Physically, the 'old' motors have a stronger build."
Just because they look stronger to you doesn't mean they are physically stronger.
"The "new" motors, while cheaper to manufacture..."
Again, speculation.
"There are more people with the 'old' P3s, that have never had any problems, than there are people with the 'new' P3s."
Fact. But irrelevant to whether the new motors are better.
But, yes, there are thousands of folks with the "old" P3 that have no motor or shell issues -- so whether the new motors and shell are better or worse than the old, it's too early to tell.
While my P3P is my first Quadcopter, it isn't my first R/C vehicle...nor is this "speculation".
First, by the "old motors being stronger", I'm referring to the fact that the motor casings are physically more substantial. If you know anything about design, then you'd understand this.
Second, regarding the manufacturing cost, the fact of the design being less substantial (ie. containing less metal), combined with the fact that the ESCs have been removed from the individual motors, and, instead, placed on the mainboard, does clearly indicate that the manufacturing cost ox the motors should have decreased. I'm not you know anything about manufacturing, & production costs, you'd understand this point.
Third, the point about "old" & "new" P3s being flown, both without problems, was NOT a reference specifically to the motors, but to the P3s, as a whole...although, at the same time, it could also be said that, since few (if any) people have had problems with the "old" motors, there was possibly no real need to design them...unless DJI suspected that the motors were the cause of other problems, such as the cracks appearing in the shells. That, by the way, would be "speculation", as the number of units forming cracks is a minor percentage, compared to those without cracks (thus the final comment I made, which you quoted).
While I never specifically said that the "new" motors are worse than the "old" motors, one could speculate that you are attempting to 'prove' the "new" motors are better, simply because you are attempting to dispel what I've said in comparing both motor versions.
I have 3 P3's 1 with the old motors 2 with the new motors. From what I seen the new motors are more efficient.
The new motors (2312A) are supposed to be "more efficient", using only 800KV (compared to the 960KV of the "old" 2312), and supposedly increasing flight time by 1-2 minutes...but, in real-world use, there has been no noticed increase in flight time. Additionally, if you look at both motors, side-by-side, you'll notice two things:
1) The metal of the new motor is much thinner.
2) While there are openings on both the top & bottom of the "old" motor, the "new" motor onl
has openings along the top.
This is why, despite operating at a lower KV, the real-world operating temperature of both is approximately the same. This might not apply to all P3 owners (but it should), but, for those who clean & lubricate their motors (as should be done), the old design is FAR easier to work with. The bearings are located in the bottom of the motor, which can't be accessed with the new motors, and, as far as I'm aware, they are not sealed bearings.
Consider this - with all the heat generated, and the high-speed that the motors operate at, those bearings WILL, sooner or later, need to be lubricated (unless you just plan on buying new motors every time the bearings start to fail). Honestly, haven't cleaned/lubricated my motors...yet...but, having read a posting (within DJI's own forums) by someone who regularly flies on/around the beach, he stated he cleans/lubricates his motors approximately twice per month. Good luck cleaning...and, especially, lubricating...the new motors. You, and anyone who receives the "old" P3, wanting to ship it back requesting the "new" P3, should ask themselves a question - do you plan on treating your P3 like a toy, or a tool? Ask any professional, and they'll tell you they take care of their tools, no matter what it is, from high-cost electronic tools, down to the simplest (ie. hammer) tools. I prefer to take care of my things, so as to help them last longer. I clean out the inside of my desktop 2-4 times per year, I kept my R/C helicopters clean (inside & out), and I even have CDs from as far back as 1987 that people, when they see them, think they were recently purchased. If you plan on treating your P3 as a toy, then, by all means, don't bother taking care of it, other than the absolute minimum. On the other hand, if you plan on taking care of it, as the expensive tool it is, then you'll want to consider cleaning/lubricating the motors...and, if that's the case, then the "old" P3 could, potentially, prove the better choice. Again, whichever you have, or end up with, the MOST important thing is to ENJOY IT.
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How exactly do you clean and lubricate the motors? Details please.
Lots of good ideas, but also lots of speculation going around.... Still it's an interesting discussion
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I have a sneaky suspicion that the manufacturing of the new motors is cheaper and more "cost friendly" for DJI than the old ones. Just sayin'....
Wouldn't be a very well managed company if they were not always looking for a way to decrease costs and increase profit margins. That is capitalism.
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