Newb alert: Can't get props to spin

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Greetings to my new Phantom Phriends. I'm stoked to be a new Phantom owner. Can't wait to see if I can attach my Nikon D7000 with a 300mm lens on it. :)

I've assembled my Phantom and gone through the pre-flight checklist.

1. Turned on controller first
2. Plugged in fully charged battery, closed battery lid.
3. Performed GPS home dance, all good.
4. Unit flashing green light once per second.
5. I put the controller in prop start mode but the only thing which happens is the green light flashes several times quickly. The green light flashes several times quickly when I do anything with the controller.

Ok folks, what obvious thing am I doing wrong or not doing to get my prop motors going?
 
By prop start mode I assume you dont know the motor activation sequence. Both sticks down and inside or outside to activate motors as described in the manual.

Regarding your nikon setup and lens you may get higher if you just pick it up and throw it. End result likely the same with a smashed camera but you may get a couple aerial shots before it hits the ground with a good enough arm. :lol:
 
Asher9165 said:
Dynam rc AT-6 texan is a superb scale WWII airplane. most working had finished in factory- assembly and painting. Just about everything has been done for you before you even open the box. All that’s left to do is a few hours of final assembly and radio installation. When you’re done, you’ll have a fantastic-flying scale warbird .
The dynam rc AT-6 is made of EPO and it will brings you the most advanced electric flight experience.
The AT-6 texan comes out of the box with all kinds of details that have been finished for you, including a factory-painted , air scoops, dummy radial engine, painted fuselage, also it come with the electric retract landing gear ,let your flying more scale .the kv950 3715 dynam motor with 2200mah ,20c battery ,powerful ,let the airplane flying fast ,also can do slow flying .

Maybe wrong thread or something, or else I am just lost. ;)
 
martcerv said:
By prop start mode I assume you dont know the motor activation sequence. Both sticks down and inside or outside to activate motors as described in the manual.

Regarding your nikon setup and lens you may get higher if you just pick it up and throw it. End result likely the same with a smashed camera but you may get a couple aerial shots before it hits the ground with a good enough arm. :lol:

Yeah but that one shot might be worth it... hehe.

Actually I DO know the both sticks down and inside sequence. When I do that, the green light flashes several times really quickly for about a second but the blades don't turn. As per the post above I'll try an advanced calibration and see what comes up.
 
Thanks for your help. I did have to do an advanced calibration. The PITA was that I only have macs and the software isn't compatible with the mac. Fortunately I can boot my laptop in windows and was able to do it that way.

So I've had my first couple of flights and of course my first crashes. I seem to have one prop which is a little sluggish. Not sure if that's because of the crash or what.

Can the calibration software fix that?
 
If you now have a prop that spins up last or spins down first, rotate it by hand to see if it feels "different" from the other three. Any binding, stiffness, grinding, noise? The motor shafts are held on by small metal circlips or E-clips under each motor, and on the stock motors they are prone to popping off in a crash and getting lodged in the motor housing, usually stuck to a magnet.

You might test by simply grabbing the suspect motor by the outside housing and pulling upward (fairly hard). If the retainer clip is gone, the whole motor shell will come off the windings. In that case you'll need to remove the 4 Torx screws from bottom that hold the motor in place and see if you can find the clip and get it back on.

If the clip is in place but the motor still feels "odd" you may have a failing bearing and need to replace it (or the motor).
 

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