New Phantom 4 after even exchanged at the Apple Store update!!

[PROJEFFREY11]

but i dont think yours is that bad, if it doesnt make a noise when you tilt the phantom 4 side to side and up and down and I mean tilt (dont ***** baby it around) then yeah yours isnt that bad.

Yeah it doesn't appear to make that noise when I tilt it but I think I'll exchange it anyway just to be safe I'll let you know the difference if any.

 

[Sim597]

Basically, the IMU needs more temperature range to get the best level. As it gets hotter metals in the IMU expand and it doesn't give a good range to calibrate.

The Phantom gets pretty hot fast i.e 30 degrees in the core, this is not good for calibration. So the colder the better. Some people leave it in the garage over night to cool right down.

I read the opposite somewhere, about the "cold trick" and it said NOT to. I've been around so many places it may have been on the AutoFlightLogic app.

Now just because I read that doesn't mean it was correct, it's funny though that was the first time I'd heard of it, and now it's mentioned.
The idea was or is, that a cold calibrated IMU won't be accurate once the craft warms up, and to me, that makes sense, plus the team at AutoFlightLogic are pretty on top of latest info and tricks I'd think, I'm sure they know more then myself anyway.
After reading that I actually turned my craft on for a bout 5-10 minutes, then calibrated the IMU, showed better levels vs my other calibrations. (You know, the bar graph were both very very short and they were a lot closer match to each other also.

So again, I'm not saying your wrong, just pointing out what others with way more experience then me were saying, I think it was mentioned in the post here about the battery flying out after a crash....

 

[Stealthmatt]

I read the opposite somewhere, about the "cold trick" and it said NOT to. I've been around so many places it may have been on the AutoFlightLogic app.

Now just because I read that doesn't mean it was correct, it's funny though that was the first time I'd heard of it, and now it's mentioned.
The idea was or is, that a cold calibrated IMU won't be accurate once the craft warms up, and to me, that makes sense, plus the team at AutoFlightLogic are pretty on top of latest info and tricks I'd think, I'm sure they know more then myself anyway.
After reading that I actually turned my craft on for a bout 5-10 minutes, then calibrated the IMU, showed better levels vs my other calibrations. (You know, the bar graph were both very very short and they were a lot closer match to each other also.

So again, I'm not saying your wrong, just pointing out what others with way more experience then me were saying, I think it was mentioned in the post here about the battery flying out after a crash....

Both Blade and Tahoee on RC groups have said cold IMU calibrations.

This reply was in response to my first phantom 4 which had a bad horizon level - RC Groups - View Single Post - Official Phantom 4 ***Owner's Thread***

 

[snowghost]

It hits alot harder on startup than my previous phantom. Exactly like yours.

But to see if you really have the noise, pick the phantom up and tilt the whole phantom up and down and side to side and see if you still hear the noise.

My second phantom also didnt have the covers on the front camera, and it cam with a panasonic sd card instead of a lexar.

Can you let me know how you go with moving the phantom around while its on, do you still hear the noise?

Also best to do an IMU calibration when its dead cold on a perfect level surface, my P4 is now rock solid.

Yeah my second P4 didn't have stickers over the front cameras, but did have the clear sticker over the gimbal screws. It also had the newer firmware that got rid of the loud start up tone.

Edit: IIRC the DJI unboxing video didn't have stickers on the cameras either.

 

[chris digata]

I think you will find that when its all setup and calibrated, give the new gimbal time to settle in ..be reeet
HAd them so called problem with both my P4`s, i worked them and now no noise an smooth..
Ibet apple is getting peeved off lol

 

[Sim597]

I think you will find that when its all setup and calibrated, give the new gimbal time to settle in ..be reeet
HAd them so called problem with both my P4`s, i worked them and now no noise an smooth..
Ibet apple is getting peeved off lol

That might be true about Apple lol

 

[Marc Hufnagel]

The ole screaming gimbal.

 

[Sim597]

Both Blade and Tahoee on RC groups have said cold IMU calibrations.

This reply was in response to my first phantom 4 which had a bad horizon level - RC Groups - View Single Post - Official Phantom 4 ***Owner's Thread***

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Well that's interesting. The calibration goes over the temperature spread... That also makes some sense.

Like I said before I had read it somewhere and I'll look for it, I guess if your going after a specific problem or something it may be a fix, as of right now my craft is behaving well and flying perfectly so I'll keep what I am doing, we do what works for us correct?

I wonder what DJI says about this the IMU calibration. In a direct question.

 

[Sim597]

The ole screaming gimbal.

And don't forget about the "ole tilted horizon" lol

 

[m0j0]

IMU has to be dead cold, i.e put it in the fridge for 30 minutes. and then before you even turn the phantom on, have the menu open ready to go. As soon as you turn the phantom on calibrate.

Use a spirit level to ensure the surface it is on is dead level, both ways (back to front) and (left to right)

I put mine in front of an airconditoner in a bed room for 30 minutes, got it down to 18degrees in the shell. My fan didnt turn on till around the 70% calibration mark. and now my phantom is dead level and like never moves in the air.

The temp has nothing to do with the bird being level.


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[Phantom fool]

The ole screaming gimbal.

I dated her a couple of times. Explains my hearing loss

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[Stealthmatt]

The temp has nothing to do with the bird being level.


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You are correct, the imu does - and when calibrating the imu if it starts at a colder temprature it is able to see a bigger variances in the sensor from when it's cold to when its hot. Which inturn allows the imu to a establish the right baseline for calibration.

Heat causes metal to expand, which creates differences. When your flying your in the wind and temprature changes. If it only ever knows what it is when its hot - how will it know what to do when its cooler than its calibration.

In anycase this all makes sense to me and this has been lengthy discussed on the inspire forums, phantom and now p4
Rcgroup dji reps have always said to do a cold imu calibration to get the best results.

 

[scatmanr1]

Man I just read your beginning of the thread and I too had to exchange my P4 at Apple. I had a dot or dust on the sensor that was showing up in every video. First one had stickers on every sensor and a sticker over the Dji symbol on top. The ruber on bottom of feet actually had a line in it to I guess line up the protector for the gimbal. The second one I got, no stickers, no line.... I thought I had got a return.. Lol


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[PROJEFFREY11]

Some

You are correct, the imu does - and when calibrating the imu if it starts at a colder temprature it is able to see a bigger variances in the sensor from when it's cold to when its hot. Which inturn allows the imu to a establish the right baseline for calibration.

Heat causes metal to expand, which creates differences. When your flying your in the wind and temprature changes. If it only ever knows what it is when its hot - how will it know what to do when its cooler than its calibration.

In anycase this all makes sense to me and this has been lengthy discussed on the inspire forums, phantom and now p4
Rcgroup dji reps have always said to do a cold imu calibration to get the best results.

Man I just read your beginning of the thread and I too had to exchange my P4 at Apple. I had a dot or dust on the sensor that was showing up in every video. First one had stickers on every sensor and a sticker over the Dji symbol on top. The ruber on bottom of feet actually had a line in it to I guess line up the protector for the gimbal. The second one I got, no stickers, no line.... I thought I had got a return.. Lol


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I got a new P4 with no gimbal noises at all, but with a Warning motor idling (loose or missing propeller) message FML. :'(

 

[Stealthmatt]

Some


I got a new P4 with no gimbal noises at all, but with a Warning motor idling (loose or missing propeller) message FML. :'(

Just return it again! thats even worse!

 

[PROJEFFREY11]

Just return it again! thats even worse!

I am so upset because the **** Gimbal is flawless on this one.

 

[XJoeyX]

Got ya, here these might help you in the future AACU = Acronyms & Abbreviations Commonly Used
No offence was meant

Wow, I didn't know a LOT of these!! I think I'll print this out for future reference!

 

[yorlik]

Basically, the IMU needs more temperature range to get the best level. As it gets hotter metals in the IMU expand and it doesn't give a good range to calibrate.

The Phantom gets pretty hot fast i.e 30 degrees in the core, this is not good for calibration. So the colder the better. Some people leave it in the garage over night to cool right down.

Very interesting comments about calibrate cold... nonsense, but very interesting non the less!

I believe the old "do it cold" is a left over from P2 days when the IMU process would fail due to overheating if not started from dead cold. It was a defect that was gotten around by cooling the P2 before calibration. They fixed it and none of the new ones should require any amount of cooling. Sorry, in my book saying stuff expands when hot so calibrate cold is silly; I can see no scientific basis behind doing this.

 

[Sim597]

Very interesting comments about calibrate cold... nonsense, but very interesting non the less!

I believe the old "do it cold" is a left over from P2 days when the IMU process would fail due to overheating if not started from dead cold. It was a defect that was gotten around by cooling the P2 before calibration. They fixed it and none of the new ones should require any amount of cooling. Sorry, in my book saying stuff expands when hot so calibrate cold is silly; I can see no scientific basis behind doing this.

I'm sorry, I have to agree here. Sure there is expansion, nominal but it's there. However, it's not noted by DJI anywhere, and also, what about all of us, (I for one) who think it's silly to put my craft in a refer to calibrate it, but have a perfectly flying bird. I LIKE Matts comments and think he adds plenty to discussions, but on this, not even him now, I think some ppl take it way way overboard. If you really want your **** to work right, follow these guys from AutoFlightLogic and Litchi who state categorically DO NOT COLD TRICK the IMU calibration.

These are expensive machines/computers and do what gives you the "warm and fuzzy". But I would state this, in my reading and understanding these two things are prolly your best bet; first turn the bird on 5 minutes before you calibrate to let all internals get to operating temp. Before you fly, let the bird properly warm up, if this means turning it on a few minutes before flight, then so be it, it may, may cost you a few seconds of flight time, but to be honest, what's a stabile bird worth to you? If your willing to through it in a refrigerator! You should be willing to let it warm up for a couple minutes.

Here's another valid point, going from extremes, like the guys bringing their crap out of a cold cold environment, then heating up to operational temps, IS SUPER HARD ON SOLID STATE BOARDS! THIS IS WAY WAY WORSE THEN LEAVING YOUR STUFF ON ALL THE TIME, and in fact, (look it up) engineers will tell you as far as computers and stuff like this goes, your doing most of the wear and tear on machines when putting them through this heat cycle, leading to brittle hardware and degraded connections, NO WAY would I freeze my bird then turn it on, especially over time, dollars to donuts this will lead to a premature failure. Take what you will of my $.02 but I doubt 30 years of experience is steering me in the wrong direction here. If there was an issue in the past, well I get that, but your asking for trouble in a P4 with this idea.


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[gtpark]

I think some ppl take it way way overboard. If you really want your **** to work right, follow these guys from AutoFlightLogic and Litchi who state categorically DO NOT COLD TRICK the IMU calibration.
p

Could you post the links to the statements by Litchi and Autlight Logic? I haven't seen them before.