havasuphoto said:
I've done it both ways, depends on whether I want access to my balance plug for my voltage meter. It's a snug fit due to the height of the batt, but not a big pain.
New 2700mAh 30C Battery
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I've done it both ways, depends on whether I want access to my balance plug for my voltage meter. It's a snug fit due to the height of the batt, but not a big pain.
It's a bit easier if you put it in "backwards" like in the vid, just be careful when sliding it in to make sure the Phantom's power lead goes back down the side of the battery tray (instead of having the connectors mashed against the LED board and wires)
Just be careful when putting the battery in backwards. I had done it several times until one time I was going to test a change I made in the Assistant software. I put the battery in just as I had always done and as soon as I did, I saw a wisp of white smoke and smelled that sickening fired electronics smell. Upon inspection, one of the wires that went from the LED board had fried so bad that it was now not connected and no longer had any plastic insulation on it. I thought I had fried the board as well, but it turned out it was just the wire. I replaced the board anyway to be safe.
I no longer install the batteries that way, instead I used a mod someone did by putting a groove in the door and body so the power connection and battery wires are outside of the Phantom. I have since changed to a Dual Battery setup with mounts on the outside. The batteries connect to a Y cable that connect to the Phantom's power cable, all outside of the Phantom.
I no longer install the batteries that way, instead I used a mod someone did by putting a groove in the door and body so the power connection and battery wires are outside of the Phantom. I have since changed to a Dual Battery setup with mounts on the outside. The batteries connect to a Y cable that connect to the Phantom's power cable, all outside of the Phantom.
I'm wondering if anyone here is using the bigger battery door? Anyone got a link to the one they are using?
How difficult is it to remove that long/thin metal rod and install the bigger door?
I had a look inside, and there is a stop on the floor of the battery compartment. But, there's nothing but a thin piece of tape across the soldiered connectors to the read LED. Seems to me it would be pretty easy to get the wires pushing against that.
Also-wondering if anyone has gotten any cuts on the red or black plastic insulation on their Phantoms battery connectors, yet?
I just found a small slice on my red connectors insulation-where I can see the silver wire. Only the insulation is cut-the wire is perfect. So, I just wrapped some electrical tape around the cut.
Seems that the battery compartment has some sharp edges-I'm sure I'm not the only one that has slice their insulation.
How difficult is it to remove that long/thin metal rod and install the bigger door?
I had a look inside, and there is a stop on the floor of the battery compartment. But, there's nothing but a thin piece of tape across the soldiered connectors to the read LED. Seems to me it would be pretty easy to get the wires pushing against that.
Also-wondering if anyone has gotten any cuts on the red or black plastic insulation on their Phantoms battery connectors, yet?
I just found a small slice on my red connectors insulation-where I can see the silver wire. Only the insulation is cut-the wire is perfect. So, I just wrapped some electrical tape around the cut.
Seems that the battery compartment has some sharp edges-I'm sure I'm not the only one that has slice their insulation.
So my original Phantom battery is 2200mah, and got it tuned now to get a good 10.5 min flying time. So what do you do if you have two different sized batteries, say a second 2700mah? How do you set that up to fly by exchanging batteries in the field? Bringing a laptop seems quite an annoying chore.
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Marc70 said:
Are you talking about resetting the low voltage alarms between batteries? You don't have to go to such lengths (which is why I think it's silly for the NAZA to recommend testing your line loss for purposes of the low voltage alarm). Most healthy batteries will perform similarly; they're all 3S, so you'll want to end above 10.8v and have them resting at 11.1v or higher. More likely than not you can use the same low voltage alarm settings. The 2700 will just trip the alarm later. But the key is to know your batteries well. If one has higher internal resistance or lower C-rating and trips the LV more frequently on throttle, you can plan around it. My low voltage alarm is just a backup reminder, as I primarily fly on timer. I plan flights to 16-17 minutes on some of my batteries, and to 13 minutes on others because I know their behaviors and limits.
I always fly by timer, too. It's throttle activated in my Futaba T8J.ElGuano said:
Know your aircraft and batteries. I know, for a reasonable certainty, that my 1st level warning will come on at around 5:20. I have my timer set to 4:30. At that time, I want my Phantom in the same field, and within 30 meters of me. I'll then bring it back in for a landing.
OI Photography said:
How does the phantom battery connect to this charger - do both connectors connect to it?
Bunger said:
It's not a charger, it's a balancer/discharger
The battery just connects through the balance tap, that's all that's needed for those functions.OI Photography said:It's not a charger, it's a balancer/discharger
Sorry - I mistyped... I knew it wasn't a charger... But thx for the info!
I've now got two of the Mad Dog 2700 batteries and am quite happy to report that I'm getting 7 minutes in the air with a heavy setup which used to be under 4 minutes.
I don't like having to put the battery in backward though. I've already now seen a break in the phantom's battery cable exposing bare wire on the negative lead. Need to fix that somehow.
I don't like having to put the battery in backward though. I've already now seen a break in the phantom's battery cable exposing bare wire on the negative lead. Need to fix that somehow.
I have the same-except mine is a small cut on the positive lead. I just wrapped a piece of black tape around the slice, as the wire was un-touched.
I'm thinking now though, that I might have someone(I have no soldering skills), shorten my main battery lead. It wouldn't hurt it to be 1/2" shorter or maybe more......
Let me know what you decide to do with your cut.
I inspect my wires before each flight-just because of the issue you have there.
The thing with the MD batteries is, they only go in 1 way-and sometimes it takes a minute of "fussing" with it, before it slides in. But, you shouldn't need to use any force!!
I'm thinking now though, that I might have someone(I have no soldering skills), shorten my main battery lead. It wouldn't hurt it to be 1/2" shorter or maybe more......
Let me know what you decide to do with your cut.
I inspect my wires before each flight-just because of the issue you have there.
The thing with the MD batteries is, they only go in 1 way-and sometimes it takes a minute of "fussing" with it, before it slides in. But, you shouldn't need to use any force!!
Did you ever get this fixed??mediaguru said:I've now got two of the Mad Dog 2700 batteries and am quite happy to report that I'm getting 7 minutes in the air with a heavy setup which used to be under 4 minutes.
I don't like having to put the battery in backward though. I've already now seen a break in the phantom's battery cable exposing bare wire on the negative lead. Need to fix that somehow.
I was going to have my plug replaced, and some heat-shrink wrapped down each wire. But, was told that they couldn't soldier a new connector on because it was too close to the aircraft.
Have the Phantom in the ER right now-going to talk to the "experts" to see what they say about maybe shortening my lead a bit, and putting on the above stuff.
With the Big Battery door, this is no longer an issue. However, like you, I can see "wear" from bending on my connector. So, it would be foolish of me to not try and have it replaced while they're "under the hood"
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havasuphoto said:Did you ever get this fixed??mediaguru said:I've now got two of the Mad Dog 2700 batteries and am quite happy to report that I'm getting 7 minutes in the air with a heavy setup which used to be under 4 minutes.
I don't like having to put the battery in backward though. I've already now seen a break in the phantom's battery cable exposing bare wire on the negative lead. Need to fix that somehow.
I was going to have my plug replaced, and some heat-shrink wrapped down each wire. But, was told that they couldn't soldier a new connector on because it was too close to the aircraft.
Have the Phantom in the ER right now-going to talk to the "experts" to see what they say about maybe shortening my lead a bit, and putting on the above stuff.
With the Big Battery door, this is no longer an issue. However, like you, I can see "wear" from bending on my connector. So, it would be foolish of me to not try and have it replaced while they're "under the hood"
You can easily shorten the standard battery leads. It's standard silicone sheath 14 or 16 awg stranded core wire, not sure what the big deal is. I must have soldered and unsoldered mine 4-5 times now swapping shaved mainboards back and forth.
You may be best off just replacing the existing wires and adding a new xt60 connector, but this is definitely not rocket science. If you can take off the top shell and remove one screw from the main board, you can pull out the battery leads entirely.
It still seems like a larger battery door is a simple fix here. Surely a number of you are using these? I've seen others cut the stock door to allow the cables to be routed externally, but I'd prefer to not do it that way. Maybe someone should make an extended door that's more of a 'skeleton' with cutouts to reduce the weight to the same as stock or lower, but still hold everything in. A whiffle-door if you will ;-)
Adam
Adam
Yep, my thoughts exactly. My cable is not cracked-the wire is pristine. But, the red insulation had a clean slice in it.ElGuano said:
That being said-I've found a shop that is capable, and will replace the XT60 plug. I want them to cut it at where the factor heat shrink ends, and start there.
Then, run heat shrink down each wire, until past the cut in the positive leads insulation.
And, I'm not running the Big Battery Door, so this shouldn't be an issue anymore. A shorter lead will actually help.
FYI I fixed it with some of that liquid electrical tape I found at Home Depot. That worked for about five flights and now that material is coming off. I can hit it again and maybe put more on, but realistically those are all temp fixes. The plug needs to be lopped off and replaced.
Yep. I thought about that liquid tape stuff.
But, since I'm already have a bunch of work done, I'll get the plug replaced anyways-as mine will eventually wear away or break through that tiny bit of heat-shrink they put on at the factory. Rather have the heat-shrink running as far down the lead as possible.
But, since I'm already have a bunch of work done, I'll get the plug replaced anyways-as mine will eventually wear away or break through that tiny bit of heat-shrink they put on at the factory. Rather have the heat-shrink running as far down the lead as possible.
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