Neewer ND filters and stock rubber seal ?

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After I managed to remove stock UV filter using latex gloves I have removed that tiny rubber seal from the stock UV filter and put it on variable Neewer ND filter. Should I always put that seal in all filters or Neewer should be used without it ? It seems to me that it has like 0,5mm gap on the thread when Neewer is screwed with seal, I dont mind it but just want to know if it suppose to be like that.

Tnx
 
After I managed to remove stock UV filter using latex gloves I have removed that tiny rubber seal from the stock UV filter and put it on variable Neewer ND filter. Should I always put that seal in all filters or Neewer should be used without it ? It seems to me that it has like 0,5mm gap on the thread when Neewer is screwed with seal, I dont mind it but just want to know if it suppose to be like that.

Tnx
I thought the OE rubber gasket was to stop the UV filter falling-out, create a dust-tight seal and stop it loosening too. If the Neewer doesn't have a rubber sealing gasket, I'd use the OE one.
 
No it does not have one. I am waiting for people with Neewer filters to chime in and tell if they use them without seal.
 
I use mine without the rubber gasket and have had no issues. I unscrew the UV and leave it intact. I have the Neewer PL set.
 
My set is with ND16, Variable ND, CPL and UV. I was affraid that it will maybe touch the lense without the seal ?

Should I remove the seal then ?
 
It's up to you. I haven't given it much thought and frankly didn't realize until I read your post. In my case, I have never had a problem and will continue to use my filters without the rubber gasket. They screw on fine without and as another member said, the point of the rubber gasket is to prevent the UV glass filter from falling out and make sure the glass lies flush when installed on the Phantom.
 
I dont understand 2 things :

1) Why did DJI make it in 2 pieces and that the glass can fall out ?
2) Why nobody made ND filters with only glass part so we can use same screw and rubber and just exchange glass ?

Btw. I have removed the sead and it screws further so I will leave it like that. My only worry was that the filter will touch the lens.
 
I dont understand 2 things :

1) Why did DJI make it in 2 pieces and that the glass can fall out ?
2) Why nobody made ND filters with only glass part so we can use same screw and rubber and just exchange glass ?

Btw. I have removed the sead and it screws further so I will leave it like that. My only worry was that the filter will touch the lens.
Perhaps they were intending to have swapperble filters?
 
They have swapable filters but they come with complete thread. I dont understand why no company is selling only glass part, there are foil types that go inside original UV filter, snap-on filters and screw on type but nobody got the perhaps the best idea to make only glass part so we can just replace the glass on original filter.
 
Tried today with variable ND and it worked great ! Only thing that it is missing is to go harder when adjusting, it goes too easy.

My recommendation is to put the camera in Manual, adjust ND filter with camera facing forward and with sky in the shot, then screw the filter until EV is on 0 or max -1.0 and then go back to Auto and fly. I got max 1/80 shutter speed and ISO was 200 all the time.

Really no need for manual camera settings after ND is mounted or adjusted on the ground for getting shutter to be double the framerate and EV on 0.
 
and it doesn't change the shutter or ISO as you fly along on Auto? I do the same procedure you do except since I don't own a variable, I switch out different ND's until I get the EV as close to 0 as possible. However, I do keep my camera on Manual, ISO 100 and shutter twice my framerate and fly around like that. I shoot in LOG and do my color correcting in Adobe Premiere. For stills, I shoot in Auto.
 
As I have noticed it changes only shutter speed, it goes from 1/50 to 1/80, ISO was alway on ISO 200.
I dont care for that because it is a lot more important that I have EV around zero than that small SS variation, I've been told that everything under 1/100 is good. I record on the ground and then some parts with sky in the frame so I would need to tune it all the time if in manual, increasing ISO when EV goes in - and increasing shutter speed when EV goes in + and I think it is too much work when I need to my subject so putting it on Auto is the best for me, result is the same at the end, smooth video.

I shoot in D-Log Cine and sharpnes and everything on zero. It look better than those -2 -3 -2 on sharpness etc. Also I give it color, I dont see any advantages recording ultra dull and flat colors, I make post in GoPro Studio.
 

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