Maybe this should have been a response to an existing thread, but wanted to summarize what I learned over a few months of trial and error with my Phantom and GoPro 3 to achieve jello-free video. 1) Buy some Sorbothane I got a sheet of 3/16" x 12" x 12" 'IsolateIt!' brand from Ebay. Unfortunate that you have to buy it in sheets so large, since you only need about a square inch - best to pool with a few other Phantom owners on this since it's around $50-$100 per sheet! EDIT: As @FangsCPO points out below, you can buy smaller pieces of this from drum/music shops. It comes sticky on both sides, but not sticky enough so I used a couple of the sticky pads that I'm pretty sure came with the Phantom.. If not, then I can't remember where I got them from. I originally tried two layers doubled-up, but it was unnecessary and made it too wobbly. I made a light-weight anchor, tying the stock mount to the frame with string just in case. But note, you shouldn't use screws at all since they'll transfer vibration to the camera. (tried to upload an image but it's "over limit", sorry) 2) Use ATTI mode Sure, the Phantom tends to drift in ATTI mode, especially in light wind. But as long as you learn to work *with* the wind and not rely on the GPS to fight it, the movement should look more natural than the jerkiness you tend to get from the GPS constantly correcting itself. In fact, if you don't have a gimbal then you may want to get it going for something like a side-tracking shot and then just let it continue to drift fluidly with its own momentum and without pitching to the side. 3) Shoot at 60 fps 1080p You want to shoot at 60 fps, which I believe will force the camera to shoot at a shutter speed of 120 instead of 60 for 30 fps - at least this is the way you normally do the math on a regular pro video camera, shooting at least double the frame rate to achieve 'normal' motion blur. You can then choose to either speed it back up a percentage in post or leave it at slow-motion for a more cinematic-feel (probably best to split the difference). Of course leave the WiFi off to avoid interference (it's a delayed image anyway), and shoot on ProTune if you have the ability to do color correction in post - this will help with the camera's limited contrast range. 4) Stabilize with Warp Stabilizer and correct lens distortion If you have it available, use the Warp Stabilizer filter in either Adobe Premiere or After Effects. It will zoom in and crop the image a bit, but since we've shot in 1080p there should be plenty of resolution to spare so that you can still achieve a full 720 resolution on your final image. Depending on how much you had to stabilize, you should still have enough left over resolution to correct the lens distortion by the GoPro as well and flatten out that horizon. I personally can't stand the GoPro fisheye look. EDIT #2: I realized I forgot to mention balancing your props! Really important, although pretty obvious I suppose. I'll be getting the new DJI Zenmuse gimbal in the next few weeks and hopefully a FPV setup of some sort, so the Sorbothane will actually be coming off - really looking forward to being able to tilt the camera too. Anyone have any other tips to add?