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Motor replacement

Discussion in 'Pro/Adv Discussion' started by MackBoston, Jul 26, 2016.

  1. MackBoston

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    Im replacing two of my motors on my P3P. I was wondering if there is a tutorial on how to properly solder them in.
    Thanks
     
  2. Digdat0

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    I didn't find any tutorials on how to solder it. Many on opening the shell, this guy shows how he does it, which is how I did it.



    Basically, heat up the cold solder on the board until liquid, gently pull out the old wire. Repeat three times. Good idea to tin up your new motor wires, the heat the solder spots in the board and go to work. It was really easy. Just go slow.
     
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  3. Digdat0

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    Should add, the solder has a glue type sheen covering it. That glue will take a second to melt, and it will puddle down a bit around the base. Don't worry, I think that's normal. After that, it will be directly on the solder and it gets easy.
     
  4. Dounin Front

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    Great video and the easiest way I'm sure. But, for those of us uncomfortable doing electronic soldering, some do it this way: (I personally have overheated a board and and fried components. (Not a confidence builder))
    Just clip the wires in the middle of the arm and crimp on or solder (without fear of frying something) bullet terminals. You can also just twist, solder and wrap the cut ends. That's if you can't bring yourself to soldering the board or you want a quick disconnect for next time (God forbid). ;)
     
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  5. Yiannis.B

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    The best How To soldering guide out there, comes from PACE video series. You will have a deep understanding about soldering. And buy a decent soldering gun. Most newbies on soldering do the same mistake : Too small soldering gun and very thin soldering tip and you start overheating the board.

     
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  6. Dounin Front

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    Fascinating video. It's still a best practice. Lead optional, I guess.
    And that's why I suggested soldering the 2 wires together instead of working on the main board. It's not as critical - just don't create a cold joint.
    Thanks for the link.
     
  7. MackBoston

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    #7 MackBoston, Jul 28, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2016
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  8. Dounin Front

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    Those should work well. You are probably better off without quick disconnect terminals (one more place for trouble). I like the heat shrink/waterproof design. Use a good crimper and you done.;)
     
  9. N017RW

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    Be sure to prepare/clean the wires well before crimping. If you notice the wire is wound in the motor with no VISIBLE insulation. There is some very effective insulation on them which may be more than just enamel (like in the old days). It may require sandpaper/emery cloth to achieve good connectivity.
     
  10. Multicoptertec

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    I don't like crimping, eventually the wires may work loose or corrode. Cut the wires. Slip on some heat shrink tubing, twist the wires together and solder. Slide the tubing over the connection, and use a heat gun to form the tubing. This is a better, water resistant connection than crimping.
     
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  11. N017RW

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    That's the OPs comfort level not my advice.
     
  12. Multicoptertec

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    I realize that. the OP needs to step out of that comfort zone to do an effective repair, or let someone else do it. It's easy to get some wire and practice soldering them together before doing the bird.
     
  13. Dounin Front

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    Not sure if I agree. The world is full of splices and terminals-including DJI devices. Anything can fail, including solder joints on a board. A nicely crimped butt splice terminal under heat shrink tubing should do fine. IMO
     
    #13 Dounin Front, Jul 28, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2016
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  14. Multicoptertec

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    The OP asked about soldering. Sure, one can crimp things together, but where there is high current and vibration involved, not to mention a component (motor) that is critical to flight, soldering is the only way I would effect this repair.


    Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots
     
  15. Dounin Front

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    If Mack is afraid to work on the board, as am I, and you believe current and vibration could be an issue, then surely a soldered twisted splice under heat shrink will be as good as soldering directly to the board. Although, I've never had a problem with a good crimper and butt splice. There's plenty of contact area.
     
  16. MackBoston

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    Appreciate all the advice. Feeling a bit conflicted.
     
  17. Digdat0

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    Try the splice first, if no go, solder to the board. This was the second thing I've soldered in 4 years, it was very easy imo.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using PhantomPilots mobile app
     
  18. Dounin Front

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    Sorry, I'm probably not helping your situation any.
    My comfort level decreases proportional to the price of the board. How much is that board? I also worry more when it's resoldering vs new work.
    Crimp and/or solder the wires together and there's no worries.:) IMO
     
  19. MackBoston

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    Everyone has been very helpful. The board is 150. Do you think there is any advantage to soldering straight to the board vs a splice and solder?
     
  20. MackBoston

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    Did you solder it to the board or splice?