Maybe a dumb question....but

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I have a P1 and am considering installing an iOS mini. It requires either a NAZA V2 or the PMU V2 (whatever that is). I THINK I remember from last time I opened the bird that I have NAZA V2....and my Assistant in the title line shows NAZA V2 (altho it does that even when NOT connected to the bird). Yes, I can open the bird, risk stripping screws and bolts....OR....is there another way of determining if I have the NAZA V2 WITHOUT opening the bird?

Thanks.
 
I know this doesn't answer your question.. but If you have the right tools you won't strip anything.
if you go down the opening it up path.. just have a long 2mm hex tool and a #N-0 sized philips screw driver for the screws at the very end of each arm.

I however managed to strip one of the small screws by not having the right sized screw driver :/ managed to take it out luckily.
 
Justin00,
Thanks for your help. In the 15 months I have owned my bird, I have popped the hood maybe 10 times, have the right tools and screwdrivers, and have not stripped anything....YET. However, ALL screws and bolts, if they require significant tightening/untightening, have a finite number of cycles before the load-bearing faces of the edges become blunted and all will eventually require replacement. I am 99% sure I have the V2, just wanted to be sure before I spring for the cost of the iOSD mini. I just don't want to use up one of those finite numbered cycles just to fine out that the answer is right there on the screen of assistant OR the presence of an IOC mode or some other feature defines it as V2 rather than V1.

I guess I will just get the iOSD and then pop the hood for installation. I can return or re-sell if I am wrong and it is V1.
 
In order to install the iOSD, you need a CAN bus connection. The original P1 didn't provide this. You can get this by:
- getting the PMU V2 ($65)
- changing the main board to the Phantom 1 Upgrade Board ($69)
- changing the main board to the Phantom 2 main board ($59)
- wiring a CAN bus HVD232Q chip to the EXP port yourself (also requires a 3.3V regulator) (under $20)

Btw, you can recognize the type of main board you have by looking in from the battery opening.
If you see 5 big slot-shaped holes in the board, it's the original.
If you see 2 big holes, it's the upgrade board.
If you see no big holes, it's a P2 board.
 
CityZen,
Thanks for the excellent information. I have the original board...using your identification method. I don't remember seeing anything about the CAN bus issue in my research on the iOSD Mini. I will double check that. I will probably try wiring the CAN bus myself. Hope there are specific instructions/video somewhere.

I think I have an answer to my original question. Since Assistant shows I am using firmware V4.0, and I remember upgrading to that, I believe that defines my unit as NAZA M V2.....which is my 99% recollection from last time I opened it.
 
Actually, option 4 is more complex than I suggest, since you must also account for the GPS/compass plug. I'm not sure what the wiring will be. I don't know if anyone has made a schematic for the PMU v2.

I'd recommend you upgrade with the P2 board. You also get a gimbal controller and a plug for the wifi module.
 
Hey Peter,

I hope you're paying close attention. This is good stuff and not easy to come by.

Right on, CityZen. As usual, you have my attention. :D
 
I am absolutely paying attention and very thankful for the excellent information.

As usual, I see something and think, "that would be nice to have". And then begins the process which too often involves 2 or 3 steps back as a "first you need this....then that", twice as much gear as originally anticipated, forays into arcane "Chinglish" manuals and instructions, etc., etc. This is a (who woulda guessed.....Chinese....) fortune cookie that reads....."I see lots of frustration in your immediate future". This old, stiff mind hit Digital Tech Fatigue a decade ago. I no longer need another micro-electronic challenge just for the sake of doing it. To be or not to be.

I agree with CityZen....upgrading to the P2 board makes the most sense. And, that looks to be the easiest part of the process.

Truly.....thanks.
 

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