Maxx VS Terminator. Long distance antenna shootout!

There's nothing wrong with it but let's not forget the price of a remote is almost the cost of a whole P3A package on a good day. I think it's unrealistic to have two remotes in most cases. However multiple antennas to swap out is realistic. The main thing is that the mod changes your entire approach to being flight ready and does add a level of inconvenience that isn't there with stock, especially when adding amplifiers and a battery into the mix too. But this thread is about long range and mods to do it so that's a completely accepted part of it. Having done remote mods, I'm just adding some food for thought for people that are considering doing it without realizing the actual commitment to doing so. You don't usually un-mod back to stock even if you find it's not your thing. You live with. Just be aware, is all I ever suggest to people interested.
Current resale value of a used or new GL300A transmitter to mod or keep as stock is between $100-$200. Plenty available, as anyone who crashed their P3 and didn't repair it, always has a working transmitter left over that they have no further use for. It takes 10-20 seconds to pair a different transmitter with your aircraft. Any P3P or P3A GL300A or GL300B transmitter will work better, when paired with a P4, than the stock P4 GL300C transmitter.
 
Ah so they reduced the power on the C? Is there any thread that I can read with all the specs?
Plenty, but you'll have to search for them. Most were around the release of the P4, comparing it's RC to the various P3P RC versions, to explain the lousy range of the stock P4 RC, which can be substantially improved by pairing it with any prior transmitter, or modding any of the transmitters.

Here are the relevant numbers:

The GL300A controller has a power output of 0.380 Watts
The GL300B controller has a power output of 0.380 Watts
The GL300C controller has a power output of 0.303 Watts
 
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I received my Maxx range antenna on Sat. installed it today, install went ok, except removing one of the antennas on the left side of the board


I got the clean install kit, which I think makes it look better, well clean :)

Fired it up and did a quick test, I live in a very very congested area and sadly never really got to test out in the open, so who knows if its better or worse, I did however do a high altitude run, and was able to get almost 2 miles before I brought it back, I still had full signal which was great, but I moved my remote I'd lose it, wish there was some sort of guide on how to aim this thing when you cannot see it, I usually do this at night so at least I can see the lights but when its that far lights wont even help. It was very windy tonight and when I reached that distance I had 50% battery and decided to come home, well I started to freak when all I could hit was 14-17mph :( I did make it back but there was a part of me that thought to just land it out there and drive to pick it up, lol

I made it back with about 24% battery left.
I might have to go boosted, because I realize that trees almost right away make me lose signal, how much really does going boosted help? is it just a little, or is it really night and day?

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Side note, Jacob at the American location for MAXXUAV has been great with communication, I have over 20 emails from him from the very beginning, needing to add the clean install to my order after I already ordered, to him letting me know it wasn't in stock at first, I also bashed him when I received the package as the Clean install kit wasn't in there, yet after I already emailed him, sure enough it was hiding on the bottom :( I apologized but still embarrassing :)

I'm happy with it overall, still need to do some testing, and maybe look into getting it boosted, boosted gives you the penetration not necessarily more distance but should punch through trees/branches and leaves?

Looks good !!


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Current resale value of a used or new GL300A transmitter to mod or keep as stock is between $100-$200. Plenty available, as anyone who crashed their P3 and didn't repair it, always has a working transmitter left over that they have no further use for. It takes 10-20 seconds to pair a different transmitter with your aircraft. Any P3P or P3A GL300A or GL300B transmitter will work better, when paired with a P4, than the stock P4 GL300C transmitter.
That's cool. Good to know. Certainly a good way to go and one that I'll consider down the line. Thanks.
 
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That's cool. Good to know. Certainly a good way to go and one that I'll consider down the line. Thanks.
The Inspire GL658C remote is .93 watts for the ultimate stock DJI remote, and can be paired with the P4, and comes with both built-in GPS and an HDMI out, but they are relatively new, and $429 new today from both DJI and B&H. Better results, however, can still be achieved by modding one of the much cheaper used GL300A or GL300B .38 watt remotes, especially if you already own an extra one, say from a second P3P/P3A purchase. I have to think that modding the .93 watt GL658C would be the very best for control range, but once you exceed a 6 mile control range, the battery becomes the real range limiter, even with a battery mod! However, no matter how good the RC output is for control, the FPV reception range will always still be limited by the video power output from the aircraft.
 
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The Inspire GL658C remote is .93 watts for the ultimate stock DJI remote, and can be paired with the P4, and comes with both built-in GPS and an HDMI out, but they are relatively new, and $429 new today from both DJI and B&H. Better results, however, can still be achieved by modding one of the much cheaper used GL300A or GL300B .38 watt remotes, especially if you already own an extra one, say from a second P3P/P3A purchase. I have to think that modding the .93 watt GL658C would be the very best for control range, but once you exceed a 6 mile control range, the battery becomes the real range limiter, even with a battery mod! However, no matter how good the RC output is for control, the FPV reception range will always still be limited by the video power output from the aircraft.

@GadgetGuy what do you use to test your remotes output ??


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The Inspire GL658C remote is .93 watts for the ultimate stock DJI remote, and can be paired with the P4, and comes with both built-in GPS and an HDMI out, but they are relatively new, and $429 new today from both DJI and B&H. Better results, however, can still be achieved by modding one of the much cheaper used GL300A or GL300B .38 watt remotes, especially if you already own an extra one, say from a second P3P/P3A purchase. I have to think that modding the .93 watt GL658C would be the very best for control range, but once you exceed a 6 mile control range, the battery becomes the real range limiter, even with a battery mod! However, no matter how good the RC output is for control, the FPV reception range will always still be limited by the video power output from the aircraft.

@GadgetGuy

Do you know the power output of a GL658B Inspire remote?
 
@GadgetGuy what do you use to test your remotes output ??


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The FCC ID# for each remote requires a power output specification. That's what I am using. DJI supplies it to the FCC. Each remote has its FCC ID# printed on the back plate underneath.
 
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@GadgetGuy

Do you know the power output of a GL658B Inspire remote?
Gleaned and passed on from other threads elsewhere (may be unreliable): The GL658B is the Japanese version which is on the 900 MHz frequency band and is therefore incompatible with the Phantoms in the U.S. GL658B has an output of only 0.01483 watts.

Until someone can provide the FCC ID# of the GL658B, I can't get the same level of accuracy as on all the other transmitters.
 
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I don't think we can go by those FCC docs. I have a GL658C (daily driver) and a GL658B (dual operator / backup) both have the same output.
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That's my GL658C


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That's my GL658C


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Your numbers shown above are consistent with the FCC ID# power outputs for the GL 658C. Why would you not use DJI's own tested power outputs for comparing transmitter outputs? They are conducted in a 3rd party testing laboratory, for DJI, where everything else is equal, and are based upon a standard which is used and relied upon by the FCC! Can you please supply the FCC ID# on the bottom of your GL658B unit? It's the only one I don't have, and will be very helpful to settling this discussion.
 
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Sorry what I meant was that the output on the b & c are the same on FW 1.8. I think I misread your post .. I'll have to read it again ! And when I get home I'll grab the FCC ID from the b


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Two things. Boosted increases both the range and the penetration. Secondly, if you unlock the DJI GO map (so North is no longer up), the neon green line back to your Home Point will be vertical when the controller antenna is directly aimed at the bird. Rotate the controller until the line is vertical, and then keep it vertical throughout the flight. Good luck!


I've heard about this. Please tell me...how do you "unlock the DJI GO map"?

Thanks for your help.
 
I've heard about this. Please tell me...how do you "unlock the DJI GO map"?

Thanks for your help.


Ooops! Sorry everyone. I should have kept reading before asking that question. MasterBlaster answered my question in post #1625.
[emoji851]
 
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Sorry what I meant was that the output on the b & c are the same on FW 1.8. I think I misread your post .. I'll have to read it again ! And when I get home I'll grab the FCC ID from the b


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Thanks! The missing GL658B FCC ID will help fill in the gaps in my research, so I don't have to rely on possible misinformation, although even at least one of the FCC ID numbers have wrong power outputs from a misplaced decimal point in the FCC docs!:rolleyes: Unfortunately, I don't own an Inspire myself, to more fully understand their different remotes and the versions. It's all anecdotal from others' posts elsewhere, and the FCC ID#'s.
 
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I saw a video the other day where a certain antenna recommended to use channel 22 for the wifi channel, that said with my P3P and maxxantenna, which channel should I choose? I've been using 31 for no particular reason instead of auto. Also this would be boosted and non boosted
 

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