Main Board difference between P2 non-vision and P2V+?

[iowahill]

This is a rephrased question from an earlier post. Does anyone know if there is a difference in the main board (bird side) between the non-vision and V2+? I know the flight controller is different as video is WiFi on 2.4 and control on 5.8, swapped from the original P2 non-vision. But is the main board different?

 

[robsquad]

have a good look in the p2v+ section, a member fitter a vision board to a vision+ and he could not get it to work (i think)

 

[iowahill]

have a good look in the p2v+ section, a member fitter a vision board to a vision+ and he could not get it to work (i think)

I bought a new main board from Amazon for my P2 non-vision from amazon that worked just fine for my bird: Genuine DJI Phantom 2 Vision Part #10 Central circuit board -US Dealer

 

[robsquad]

thinking about it it could have been the naza that was the problem

 

[iowahill]

thinking about it it could have been the naza that was the problem

Just splitting the housing now to see what is inside. I get two flashes of the LEDs when I try powering up, then nothing, and no apparent communication with Phantom Assistant. I think I can get this happening!

 

[robsquad]

i thought i was watching the thread but cant find it, got a feeling it was the naza but he brought a motherboard with v+ naza on it to cure the problem

 

[hunch]

If you just get two short blinks when powering up then esc is the issue and not necessary the main board.
Battery has protection that if anything is shorted it will immediately shut down which means one of the esc is shorted which means it needs replacement.

 

[iowahill]

The NAZA numbers I found from my P2+ with Zenmuse H43D, and the newly arrived P2V+ are: The P2+ (1001099-400),

the P2V+ (1000855340).

I'm thinking that the main board is probably the same as I bought a replacement for my non-vision P2 off of Amazon that worked, though stated to be for the P2 Vision. The flight controller and receiver MUST be different between the two versions because the Visions use flight control on 5.8 Ghz with video WiFi coming back at 2.4 Ghz (from what I've gathered so far!), while the non-visions use 2.4 Ghz for flight control..

 

[iowahill]

If you just get two short blinks when powering up then esc is the issue and not necessary the main board.
Battery has protection that if anything is shorted it will immediately shut down which means one of the esc is shorted which means it needs replacement.

Good lead! I DID find a cracked arm on the lower shell that I've hit with some thin Great Planes CA. The top arm looks fine and no other noticeable physical damage. I'll try disconnecting the ESCs and run Phantom Assistant again to try isolating the bad ESC. Many thanks!.

 

[hunch]

The NAZA numbers I found from my P2+ with Zenmuse H43D, and the newly arrived P2V+ are: The P2+ (1001099-400),

the P2V+ (1000855340).

I'm thinking that the main board is probably the same as I bought a replacement for my non-vision P2 off of Amazon that worked, though stated to be for the P2 Vision. The flight controller and receiver MUST be different between the two versions because the Visions use flight control on 5.8 Ghz with video WiFi coming back at 2.4 Ghz (from what I've gathered so far!), while the non-visions use 2.4 Ghz for flight control..

yes, main boards for all P2's are the same

 

[hunch]

Good lead! I DID find a cracked arm on the lower shell that I've hit with some thin Great Planes CA. The top arm looks fine and no other noticeable physical damage. I'll try disconnecting the ESCs and run Phantom Assistant again to try isolating the bad ESC. Many thanks!.

you actually need to unsolder either V or G wire (white/black power cable) from the main board to find out which one it is.
do one at the time and when the bird fires up you got a "winner"

 

[iowahill]

you actually need to unsolder either V or G wire (white/black power cable) from the main board to find out which one it is.
do one at the time and when the bird fires up you got a "winner"

I WAS going to try using the ohmmeter first, but if the motor drivers are bad, I'd measure a short just as much as if any other component was shorted. I was thinking about this before proceeding, but your advice is the way to go. Gonna fire up the oxy acetylene torch and disconnect those puppies!

 

[hunch]

with a torch you WILL burn everything around it... use the soldering iron.

 

[iowahill]

with a torch you WILL burn everything around it... use the soldering iron.

You missed my wink! I have several soldering tools that extend from an older Weller soldering gun to two smaller soldering stations, down to the capability of doing surface mount component repair (should my tired old eyes even entertain such a notion!). Yeah, I can still hold my mud with soldering and desoldering!

 

[iowahill]

you actually need to unsolder either V or G wire (white/black power cable) from the main board to find out which one it is.
do one at the time and when the bird fires up you got a "winner"

You just nailed the main problem, hunch. I disconnected all the ESCs using my 45-year old Weller soldering gun, and powered up. The gimbal mount and camera go through the calibration sequence, and I have the red LED flashing that tells me it wants a controller to talk to (So sad to be so lonely!). The new controller should be here in a day or two, then I can see how lucky I am. Many thanks for such a simple observation and test.

 

[iowahill]

Though posted in a previous thread, I should repeat that I bought this newer and almost virgin P2V+ less controller and battery off of eBay. It had taken a dive into a swimming pool (according to the Seller), but it might have had a harder crash. I'm very happy with what I received, box and accessories and all. In taking it down to find out why it wouldn't work initially with the bad ESC (still not sure which one yet, but that will be easy to isolate), I found that one lower housing arm was cracked, but the upper arm was fine and there was no other apparent physical damage found so far. Some thin CA (Super Glue stuff) squirted into the cracked area of the lower shell should prove to be perfectly fine for a repair.

Won't know how the rest turns out until the controller arrives, but with the gimbal and camera doing the calibration dance perfectly executed (give 'em a 10!), I'm pretty darn optimistic and happy!