Loctite Destroyed my new P2

[adanac]

Guess I missed a warning about Loctite. I put a Futaba rx in mine and used Loctite on the screws when putting it back together. The Loctite ate away the plastic, basically ruining a new Phantom.

I guess it's not a big loss. Even after many flights, switching to a Futaba rx and balancing the props, I have unfixable vibration in my footage and constant yaw changes even if I'm not touching the stick. I see videos from guys' first flights and the footage looks great. There is no 3 second part of a 15 minute clip I shoot with my P2 that's useable. No doubt both my gimbal and P2 are defective. There went $1200.

 

[LuvMyTJ]

I have seen the warning about getting Locktite on the plastic. If it is used only a tiny speck on the threads is all that's needed to hold the screw. Sorry to hear of your issues. I would order a new shell and transfer the parts over.

 

[adanac]

My fault, obviously, for using Loctite. Maybe it's for the best. Either this Phantom/Gimbal is defective or a Phantom can tolerate ZERO wind. I haven't the slightest idea how other Phantom users get the stable footage I see them put up on Youtube. They must stabilize the hell out of it in post. Buying a Phantom was a big waste of time and money for me.

I have seen the warning about getting Locktite on the plastic. If it is used only a tiny speck on the threads is all that's needed to hold the screw. Sorry to hear of your issues. I would order a new shell and transfer the parts over.

 

[OI Photography]

I would order a new shell and transfer the parts over.

+1

It'll take $60 and some work, but it beats the hell out of trashing the whole Phantom

 

[adanac]

And so I shall, thank you. Have you ever seen this pendulum-like yawing and occasional shuddering?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVLA6FZ ... 2ixGoE3sVw

I would order a new shell and transfer the parts over.

+1

It'll take $60 and some work, but it beats the hell out of trashing the whole Phantom

 

[OI Photography]

And so I shall, thank you. Have you ever seen this pendulum-like yawing and occasional shuddering?

Nope. Have you calibrated your controller? (I'm just guessing at possible causes)

Also, what do your compass values look like in the NAZA Assistant software?

 

[Marc70]

So what's the blue (loctite looking) stuff on the screws?

 

[adanac]

I'm not sure I have calibrated my controller or know what to look like in the compass values. Can you be more specific? I'm wondering if I've done what you're asking and that we call it different things. I'd love it if it were just an adjustment and not a defect.

And so I shall, thank you. Have you ever seen this pendulum-like yawing and occasional shuddering?

Nope. Have you calibrated your controller? (I'm just guessing at possible causes)

Also, what do your compass values look like in the NAZA Assistant software?

 

[OI Photography]

I'm not sure I have calibrated my controller or know what to look like in the compass values. Can you be more specific? I'm wondering if I've done what you're asking and that we call it different things. I'd love it if it were just an adjustment and not a defect.

And so I shall, thank you. Have you ever seen this pendulum-like yawing and occasional shuddering?

Nope. Have you calibrated your controller? (I'm just guessing at possible causes)

Also, what do your compass values look like in the NAZA Assistant software?

There's two different types of controller calibration you can do...one involves connecting the controller itself to the PC, the other is done by following the process in the P2 Assistant software in the "Basic" section, under the "RC" tab.

Reading the compass values is also done in the software while you're connected to the PC, under the "Tools" section. You want a "mod" value that stays pretty solid within the 1600-1800 range.

Note: For the compass values and the controller calibration in the software, you'll have to switch the software to "NAZA mode"

 

[LuvMyTJ]

So what's the blue (loctite looking) stuff on the screws?

Loctite on the alloy screw & insert is ok, if it touches the plastic it will eat it.

 

[adanac]

Sorry, don't both those methods mean connecting the aircraft to the computer?


There's two different types of controller calibration you can do...one involves connecting the controller itself to the PC, the other is done by following the process in the P2 Assistant software in the "Basic" section, under the "RC" tab.

Reading the compass values is also done in the software while you're connected to the PC, under the "Tools" section. You want a "mod" value that stays pretty solid within the 1600-1800 range.

Note: For the compass values and the controller calibration in the software, you'll have to switch the software to "NAZA mode"[/quote]

 

[BadassBlaze]

My fault, obviously, for using Loctite. Maybe it's for the best. Either this Phantom/Gimbal is defective or a Phantom can tolerate ZERO wind. I haven't the slightest idea how other Phantom users get the stable footage I see them put up on Youtube. They must stabilize the hell out of it in post. Buying a Phantom was a big waste of time and money for me.

I have seen the warning about getting Locktite on the plastic. If it is used only a tiny speck on the threads is all that's needed to hold the screw. Sorry to hear of your issues. I would order a new shell and transfer the parts over.

They can handle quite a bit of wind (I flew mine the other day in gusts of 35-40mph... wasn't fun, but it stayed in the air and the video was still smooth) and no, people aren't doing a ton of stabilizing in post. I have yet to do stabilizing in any of my fliming, and its very acceptable on its own. You just have something out of wack on yours

 

[adanac]

Blaze, I would love it if that's the case with mine.

They can handle quite a bit of wind (I flew mine the other day in gusts of 35-40mph... wasn't fun, but it stayed in the air and the video was still smooth) and no, people aren't doing a ton of stabilizing in post. I have yet to do stabilizing in any of my fliming, and its very acceptable on its own. You just have something out of wack on yours[/quote]

 

[OI Photography]

Sorry, don't both those methods mean connecting the aircraft to the computer?


There's two different types of controller calibration you can do...one involves connecting the controller itself to the PC, the other is done by following the process in the P2 Assistant software in the "Basic" section, under the "RC" tab.

Reading the compass values is also done in the software while you're connected to the PC, under the "Tools" section. You want a "mod" value that stays pretty solid within the 1600-1800 range.

Note: For the compass values and the controller calibration in the software, you'll have to switch the software to "NAZA mode"

The controller I'm referring to is the white transmitter with the control sticks. You can connect that directly to the PC to calibrate the sticks and switches themselves with the appropriate software. After that, you can connect the Phantom to the PC, and also calibrate the input reading in the Phantom Assistant software.

 

[ericdes]

Balance your props. It should be common practice for all of us.

Out of the 8 props that came with mine, non e were balanced. Some were kinda OK, but three were so unbalanced it was a pain to get them good.

 

[adanac]

Ah, I see. I switched to Futaba since I found the sticks to be "loose" on the white DJI controller, and they are stiffer on my Futaba T8J. I also carefully balanced my props. I have also now done a basic and advanced calibration. I flew a few minutes ago and it looked dreadful, although there may truly be too much wind today.


The controller I'm referring to is the white transmitter with the control sticks. You can connect that directly to the PC to calibrate the sticks and switches themselves with the appropriate software. After that, you can connect the Phantom to the PC, and also calibrate the input reading in the Phantom Assistant software.[/quote]