Itelite mishap - Controller Fried

[flybid]

I have an Itelite mod on my controller. (which has worked great by the way) and I accidentally didn't turn the controller off after I disconnected the antenna. It ended up messing up the controller (ie. Wouldn't turn on). I was aware of the potential problem with doing that, but I was distracted and it happened anyway! Oops. Anyway I ended up buying a used controller off eBay for 145 and it works like a charm.

Now I'm wondering if I needed to do that. I still have the old radio and it's in great shape aside from the fact that it doesn't turn on. Is there a fix for this problem? Does anyone know which component(s) get fried when you accidentally do this? Is there a replacement option?

 

[Procharged97]

No lights at all? How long was it on before you noticed??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using PhantomPilots mobile app

 

[Procharged97]

I had a remote mailed to me that was already modded..when it was put in the case it must have turned on...so it was left on without antennas hooked and it drained the battery...it took awhile to charge it but works great.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using PhantomPilots mobile app

 

[mikesmiley]

I have an Itelite mod on my controller. (which has worked great by the way) and I accidentally didn't turn the controller off after I disconnected the antenna. It ended up messing up the controller (ie. Wouldn't turn on). I was aware of the potential problem with doing that, but I was distracted and it happened anyway! Oops. Anyway I ended up buying a used controller off eBay for 145 and it works like a charm.

Now I'm wondering if I needed to do that. I still have the old radio and it's in great shape aside from the fact that it doesn't turn on. Is there a fix for this problem? Does anyone know which component(s) get fried when you accidentally do this? Is there a replacement option?

I very much doubt that you could have the burnt controller repaired for what you paid for the replacement.

 

[flybid]

I noticed it a couple days after a flight. I tried turning it on, and nothing. No lights at all. I remembered I was taking with someone as I was packing it up on my last flight and I concluded that I must have been distracted and never turned it off. I was keenly aware that the controller would get fried if I did something like that, so I figured I packed it away with it on, no antenna. Though I haven't tried charging it overnight, I think I'll give that a shot.

 

[fastfed]

let us know how it works out, I've tried reading a lot about this subject online and haven't really read anyone frying their controller from no antenna's

 

[HWCM]

You cab easily fry the transmitter by not having a load on the antenna output. I have fried a couple video transmitters on 250 quads, crashing them and breaking the antenna mount off. having no load blows one of the caps on the board.
You can google transmitter with no antenna.

 

[Dronason]

I will replace the 2 white plastic caps I am using to cover the connectors on the RC with 2 dummy loads.
That will not be 100% safe for all cases, but at least the case where you turn on and forget to connect the antenna will be covered.

 

[flybid]

I will replace the 2 white plastic caps I am using to cover the connectors on the RC with 2 dummy loads.
That will not be 100% safe for all cases, but at least the case where you turn on and forget to connect the antenna will be covered.

Can you show me what you're going to buy? Sounds like a good idea and I may want to do that.

 

[Mark The Droner]

It doesn't make sense that your controller won't power up at all. A fried transmitter does not equal a completely dead controller. Sounds like a dead battery to me.

Also, if you disconnect the antenna, the signal still has the antenna (UFL) cable to run through, and then radiate from. So a disconnected antenna does not necessarily mean your transmitter is fried. It could possibly survive. You'd have to test it.

IMO, it's a good idea to buy a bunch of cheap three inch rubber ducky antennas. I have seven which I paid $4 each for. Every time you disconnect an antenna, put a rubber ducky on there. That will protect your transmitter if you space out.

http://www.allmaxelectronics.com/wp...Bi-Right-Angle-Short-Rubber-Ducky-Antenna.jpg

 

[Dronason]

Can you show me what you're going to buy? Sounds like a good idea and I may want to do that.

I ordered this 1pc Dummy Load RP.SMA 1W watt male jack coaxial Termination loads DC- 2.5GHz 50Ω

I have to dismount the antenna each time I use my travel case, so a day or another there could be an issue.

 

[Dronason]

It doesn't make sense that your controller won't power up at all. A fried transmitter does not equal a completely dead controller. Sounds like a dead battery to me.

Also, if you disconnect the antenna, the signal still has the antenna (UFL) cable to run through, and then radiate from. So a disconnected antenna does not necessarily mean your transmitter is fried. It could possibly survive. You'd have to test it.

IMO, it's a good idea to buy a bunch of cheap three inch rubber ducky antennas. I have seven which I paid $4 each for. Every time you disconnect an antenna, put a rubber ducky on there. That will protect your transmitter if you space out.

http://www.allmaxelectronics.com/wp...Bi-Right-Angle-Short-Rubber-Ducky-Antenna.jpg

Could be a good alternative, but maybe you will see that you forget the panel antenna when the bird is at some distance.
Advantage is that you can do test without need to mount the panel antenna.

 

[AlexSP]

It doesn't make sense that your controller won't power up at all. A fried transmitter does not equal a completely dead controller. Sounds like a dead battery to me.

Also, if you disconnect the antenna, the signal still has the antenna (UFL) cable to run through, and then radiate from. So a disconnected antenna does not necessarily mean your transmitter is fried. It could possibly survive. You'd have to test it.

IMO, it's a good idea to buy a bunch of cheap three inch rubber ducky antennas. I have seven which I paid $4 each for. Every time you disconnect an antenna, put a rubber ducky on there. That will protect your transmitter if you space out.

http://www.allmaxelectronics.com/wp...Bi-Right-Angle-Short-Rubber-Ducky-Antenna.jpg

I agree with that, about both the battery and the theory for the transmitter.

I was filming a bike race here last month when I forgot to connect the itelite panel to the controller. I took off like that and after a while the signal dropped and the P3P got into RTH, climbing to 150m as assigned. I was able to cancel RTH but it stood there a couple minutes until I finally figured out what I've done wrong. I then connected the antenna and everything was fine again.

The controller was ON all this time and maybe it didn't fry because the connection cables (TX-panel) were on them instead of the panel. It was the only time that happened, it wast for too long either, so maybe that helped. But I always leave the cables on the TX and connect the panel before turning it on to fly, it's one more length to radiate from if I forget to connect everything properly.

 

[captainmilehigh]

Many good suggestions above to keep from making a costly mistake. I too was tired of taking my DBS antenna and cables off and on, so I repurposed an old backpack phantom case that I had outgrown with too much stuff to pack in it. So I moved the bird and all its' stuff to a hard case, and "adjusted" the foam in the backpack case to fit the R/C, complete with DBS mount and Inspire tablet mount all connected and ready to go. Yes, it's another case to carry around, but it also holds my Marco Polo tracker and extra props.

I just don't think some components should be taken apart repeatedly if not necessary, so that's my solution. So far it's working well.


Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots

 

[Tenly]

You cab easily fry the transmitter by not having a load on the antenna output. I have fried a couple video transmitters on 250 quads, crashing them and breaking the antenna mount off. having no load blows one of the caps on the board.
You can google transmitter with no antenna.

What if the output from the RC is wired to go into the input side of a Sunhans 3W booster and the pilot forgets to turn on the booster. I know they won't be able to fly far before they get signal lost - but is this dmaging the transmitter or is there enough of a load inside the Sunhans amp to prevent any damage to the transmitter? Would it act the same way whether the output side of the amp had antennas connected or not?

 

[HWCM]

What if the output from the RC is wired to go into the input side of a Sunhans 3W booster and the pilot forgets to turn on the booster. I know they won't be able to fly far before they get signal lost - but is this dmaging the transmitter or is there enough of a load inside the Sunhans amp to prevent any damage to the transmitter? Would it act the same way whether the output side of the amp had antennas connected or not?

The sunhans will provide the load.

 

[HWCM]

Many good suggestions above to keep from making a costly mistake. I too was tired of taking my DBS antenna and cables off and on, so I repurposed an old backpack phantom case that I had outgrown with too much stuff to pack in it. So I moved the bird and all its' stuff to a hard case, and "adjusted" the foam in the backpack case to fit the R/C, complete with DBS mount and Inspire tablet mount all connected and ready to go. Yes, it's another case to carry around, but it also holds my Marco Polo tracker and extra props.

I just don't think some components should be taken apart repeatedly if not necessary, so that's my solution. So far it's working well.


Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots

You do not have to take anything apart. They just unscrew.

 

[HWCM]

It doesn't make sense that your controller won't power up at all. A fried transmitter does not equal a completely dead controller. Sounds like a dead battery to me.

Also, if you disconnect the antenna, the signal still has the antenna (UFL) cable to run through, and then radiate from. So a disconnected antenna does not necessarily mean your transmitter is fried. It could possibly survive. You'd have to test it.

IMO, it's a good idea to buy a bunch of cheap three inch rubber ducky antennas. I have seven which I paid $4 each for. Every time you disconnect an antenna, put a rubber ducky on there. That will protect your transmitter if you space out.

http://www.allmaxelectronics.com/wp...Bi-Right-Angle-Short-Rubber-Ducky-Antenna.jpg

This is correct.
If you left it on and the internal lipo depleted completely, it is most likely just a dead or bad battery.

 

[flybid]

I ordered this 1pc Dummy Load RP.SMA 1W watt male jack coaxial Termination loads DC- 2.5GHz 50Ω
View attachment 62327
I have to dismount the antenna each time I use my travel case, so a day or another there could be an issue.

That's great - I think I'm going to order those.

 

[captainmilehigh]

You do not have to take anything apart. They just unscrew.

Yeah, I know, but would rather leave it all together. Just preference I suppose.


Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots