Issue with DJI GO rebooting app mid flight??!?!?!?!

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So I was flying today when my P3 was about 4000' feet out. I could see it out there and then my ipad air 2 showed no signal and then rebooted... I pressed the RTH button on the controler and it look like the P3 was still heading out down range. I then lost sight the the P3. I was like FU@#... am I haveing a fly away... By this time all I see on my ipad is the apple logo as it was rebooting... When the ipad was booted up I started the app back up. Now mind you have I have lost sight of the P3 and I am not hearing it. When the app started it went to a screen that said something like "flight log" or some crap like that... I had to funble around with the ipad and then I finally get the app running. It still said no signal... Then the screen flashed and I got video back... It was still like 3000' out...

Let me tell you... I have not had this type of issue with the ipad... I am NOT an apple fan but ONLY bought the ipad for the P3... This was my 2nd flight with DJI go...

Is there a way to go back to DJI pilot? If yes... where can I get the file?

If anybody wants to to post logs let me know and how to do it...


Not a happy camper at all...


My thread over on DJI's forum
http://forum.dji.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=27449&page=1&extra=#pid187835


someone else with the same issue
http://forum.dji.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=27419&page=1&extra=#pid187824


also with the inspire 1
http://forum.dji.com/thread-9536-1-1.html
 
Everything but the airplane mode... and if I have to run the ipad in airplane mode I am going to be pissed... I paid big bucks for the cellular model... Not to for the cellular but for the GPS... If we ever see the follow me feature as marketed we will need to have GPS in the tablet... and airplane mode will turn off gps...Food for thought...
 
Sounds like your a8 isn't playing nice with hardware decoding. Disable it.

You are on 8.4 correct?
 
This is one reason why we don't have this on android yet. It was one of the main issues we were working on before stopping.

The DJI Pilot/GO app is very CPU-intensive, which can cause many mobile devices to heat up and start throttling the CPU, which then causes video signal issues. Just running the DJI Pilot/GO app causes my iPad Mini 3 to get VERY warm within about 6 minutes, and the video starts to pixelate, then stutter and freeze. High ambient temperatures above 95F and direct sunlight hitting the device screen at temps above 80F can exacerbate this problem, causing the device heat up faster and start throttling the CPU even faster. Antenna position is critical as are HD Link video settings. See below for details on the settings I use to get good RC signal and fluid HD Link video at distances out to 2.6 miles with stock P3Pro.

Using a sun hood protected iPad Air 2 as my mobile device, I've flown my P3P out as far as 13,820 feet (4.2 km, 2.6 miles) from Home Point using Custom channel 20 and 4 mbps Video Transmission Rate (settings on HD Image Transmission Setting menu) and had full RC signal (4-5 bars) and smooth HD Link video at that distance (and all distances in between). However, battery level was at 47%, so I had to turn around and head straight home at that point. Landed with 12% battery. I have a half dozen other flights between 7500 and 12,000 feet max. distance also without RC signal or video problems. These flights were all with previous firmware. On latest firmware I've only had one long-distance flight so far to 6100 feet from Home Point - again with full RC signal and no video problems.

These are the steps I suggest to get fluid, reliable HD Link video:

1) RC antenna parallel to one another with wide, flat sides facing the P3 Pro at all times. So, if P3 Pro will be out in front of you at some distance, the antenna should point straight up; however, if the P3 Pro will be directly overhead, antenna should point straight out parallel to ground. Proper antenna position is more important the greater the distance between the P3 Pro and the RC.
2) iPad Air 2 is protected by a sun hood (on bright sunny days) to prevent thermal shutdown due to overheating caused by direct sunlight on iPad display. Remember, if you DO experience a thermal shutdown of you iOS device, the RC is still controlling the P3 Pro; use the RC sticks to fly the P3 Pro and you can still activate RTH using the dedicated RC button.
3) Power on RC, iPad Air 2, start DJI Pilot app, and turn on P3 Pro battery. Calibrate P3 Pro compass and iPad Air 2 compass (if requested).
4) Shut down all other background running apps on iPad Air 2 except for the DJI Pilot app, of course. Do NOT use any screen recorder apps, such as Shou, as these can cause video lagging and blackouts.
5) In General Settings, turn Enable Hardware Decode ON (this is IMPORTANT). FYI - I also set Video Cache to "Recording" and Auto Cleanup Video Cache OFF, and it hasn't caused any video issues, thus far.
6) In the "HD" menu (Image Transmission Setting menu), set Channel to Custom, and watch noise graph for several minutes. Select a manual channel between 13 and 20 with the least amount of noise that also does not have any intermittent large noise spikes. 9 times out of 10, I end up using Channel 20.
7) Set Video transmission rate to lowest setting (4 MBps). This will lower HD Link live video resolution slightly, but the lower resolution is also less taxing on CPU, max. range is increased, and you can achieve higher frame rates. For video monitoring and shot setup, it's better to have high frame rate, stable HD Link video at slightly lower resolution than lower-frame rate, stuttering, pixelated, higher-resolution video.
8) Make sure the RC antenna remain facing the P3 Pro; keep changing your body position and antenna tilt, if necessary, to keep wide flat sides of antenna pointed at P3 Pro. This is more important the further the P3 Pro is from the RC.
9) Note: do not put your device in Airplane mode or shut WiFi off.
10) It does not matter in this case, but this suggest was also before the 32 channels.

*Note-The info above relates to this subject 100%. Some of the text above was copied and paste from a conversation I recently had with a friend of mine. (just being honest)
 
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How funny "hater got to hate..." is now experiencing bugs with a vocal thread of his own.

If the vast majority of users are not experiencing problems, it's more than likely a user problem or you have an issue with your device. That's how these things work.

OR the issue might be fixed in the next update, it might not. You'll just have to try it and see.

Good luck with your issue man.
 
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This is one reason why we don't have this on android yet. It was one of the main issues we were working on before stopping.

The DJI Pilot/GO app is very CPU-intensive, which can cause many mobile devices to heat up and start throttling the CPU, which then causes video signal issues. Just running the DJI Pilot/GO app causes my iPad Mini 3 to get VERY warm within about 6 minutes, and the video starts to pixelate, then stutter and freeze. High ambient temperatures above 95F and direct sunlight hitting the device screen at temps above 80F can exacerbate this problem, causing the device heat up faster and start throttling the CPU even faster. Antenna position is critical as are HD Link video settings. See below for details on the settings I use to get good RC signal and fluid HD Link video at distances out to 2.6 miles with stock P3Pro.

Using a sun hood protected iPad Air 2 as my mobile device, I've flown my P3P out as far as 13,820 feet (4.2 km, 2.6 miles) from Home Point using Custom channel 20 and 4 mbps Video Transmission Rate (settings on HD Image Transmission Setting menu) and had full RC signal (4-5 bars) and smooth HD Link video at that distance (and all distances in between). However, battery level was at 47%, so I had to turn around and head straight home at that point. Landed with 12% battery. I have a half dozen other flights between 7500 and 12,000 feet max. distance also without RC signal or video problems. These flights were all with previous firmware. On latest firmware I've only had one long-distance flight so far to 6100 feet from Home Point - again with full RC signal and no video problems.

These are the steps I suggest to get fluid, reliable HD Link video:

1) RC antenna parallel to one another with wide, flat sides facing the P3 Pro at all times. So, if P3 Pro will be out in front of you at some distance, the antenna should point straight up; however, if the P3 Pro will be directly overhead, antenna should point straight out parallel to ground. Proper antenna position is more important the greater the distance between the P3 Pro and the RC.
2) iPad Air 2 is protected by a sun hood (on bright sunny days) to prevent thermal shutdown due to overheating caused by direct sunlight on iPad display. Remember, if you DO experience a thermal shutdown of you iOS device, the RC is still controlling the P3 Pro; use the RC sticks to fly the P3 Pro and you can still activate RTH using the dedicated RC button.
3) Power on RC, iPad Air 2, start DJI Pilot app, and turn on P3 Pro battery. Calibrate P3 Pro compass and iPad Air 2 compass (if requested).
4) Shut down all other background running apps on iPad Air 2 except for the DJI Pilot app, of course. Do NOT use any screen recorder apps, such as Shou, as these can cause video lagging and blackouts.
5) In General Settings, turn Enable Hardware Decode ON (this is IMPORTANT). FYI - I also set Video Cache to "Recording" and Auto Cleanup Video Cache OFF, and it hasn't caused any video issues, thus far.
6) In the "HD" menu (Image Transmission Setting menu), set Channel to Custom, and watch noise graph for several minutes. Select a manual channel between 13 and 20 with the least amount of noise that also does not have any intermittent large noise spikes. 9 times out of 10, I end up using Channel 20.
7) Set Video transmission rate to lowest setting (4 MBps). This will lower HD Link live video resolution slightly, but the lower resolution is also less taxing on CPU, max. range is increased, and you can achieve higher frame rates. For video monitoring and shot setup, it's better to have high frame rate, stable HD Link video at slightly lower resolution than lower-frame rate, stuttering, pixelated, higher-resolution video.
8) Make sure the RC antenna remain facing the P3 Pro; keep changing your body position and antenna tilt, if necessary, to keep wide flat sides of antenna pointed at P3 Pro. This is more important the further the P3 Pro is from the RC.
9) Note: do not put your device in Airplane mode or shut WiFi off.
10) It does not matter in this case, but this suggest was also before the 32 channels.

*Note-The info above relates to this subject 100%. Some of the text above was copied and paste from a conversation I recently had with a friend of mine. (just being honest)
Wifi is not needed at all, you should switch it off. Some app disconnects happened because of this.
 
How funny "hater got to hate..." is now experiencing bugs with a vocal thread of his own.

If the vast majority of users are not experiencing problems, it's more than likely a user problem or you have an issue with your device. That's how these things work.

OR the issue might be fixed in the next update, it might not. You'll just have to try it and see.

Good luck with your issue man.

You know it's always best to research a little before hand. If you have a problem of some kind, the 1st thing to do is see if a large number of others are also experiencing the same. If you can't find that large number of people, then the common sense comes into play and you should know it is something on your end, with your stuff.
 
Wifi is not needed at all, you should switch it off. Some app disconnects happened because of this.

How do you keep your GPS updated in your device then?

Btw, my concerns are only with the app's I use to fly with. If one of those should have a issue with shutting my device down because wifi is enabled,.....then get the crap out of my device if it's not dependable.

I have never flown with any app's that have shut my device down while flying.
 
How do you keep your GPS updated in your device then?

Btw, my concerns are only with the app's I use to fly with. If one of those should have a issue with shutting my device down because wifi is enabled,.....then get the crap of my device if it's not dependable.

I have never flown with any app's that have shut my device down while flying.
Yes but on the field there is no wifi anyway unless you have a hotspot somewhere.

Well, i dont have a GPS module in my air2, i agree this is good for ppl who like to wandering around during flying or such scenarios but i never leave my home point so i dont need that feature.
 
Yes but on the field there is no wifi anyway unless you have a hotspot somewhere.

Well, i dont have a GPS module in my air2, i agree this is good for ppl who like to wandering around during flying or such scenarios but i never leave my home point so i dont need that feature.

98% of my flight come from my backyard while connected to my router in the house. I don't have a cellular option in my tablet either.

Btw, the ipad air2 have had GPS antennas since last year. Or at least that is what I came up with from doing a search just now.
 
i have had two ios restarts since i put the new software version on. i have the latest ios on an iphone 6. i do have all the settings posted by msinger except reducing the video resolution so perhaps it was overheating.

if we use the new hdmi exclusively for the camera feed (to a second monitor), is there any way to reduce the load on the iphone by only using it for the map view? i suspect it will still do all the work to decode the video stream even though it is only showing a thumbnail in the corner of the screen.
 
i have had two ios restarts since i put the new software version on. i have the latest ios on an iphone 6. i do have all the settings posted by msinger except reducing the video resolution so perhaps it was overheating.

if we use the new hdmi exclusively for the camera feed (to a second monitor), is there any way to reduce the load on the iphone by only using it for the map view? i suspect it will still do all the work to decode the video stream even though it is only showing a thumbnail in the corner of the screen.

This is the only reason why hardware decoder option is in the software. If you are running an a8 device and it reboots please disable hardware decoder.

I have yet to experience a reboot on this newer version so I'm keepin it on.
 
This is the only reason why hardware decoder option is in the software. If you are running an a8 device and it reboots please disable hardware decoder.

I have yet to experience a reboot on this newer version so I'm keepin it on.
I wonder if there is something going on with the cellular version for the reboot... Heck I went with the air 2 just for A8 and now it's a problem :( sad panda here...
 
This is one reason why we don't have this on android yet. It was one of the main issues we were working on before stopping.

The DJI Pilot/GO app is very CPU-intensive, which can cause many mobile devices to heat up and start throttling the CPU, which then causes video signal issues. Just running the DJI Pilot/GO app causes my iPad Mini 3 to get VERY warm within about 6 minutes, and the video starts to pixelate, then stutter and freeze. High ambient temperatures above 95F and direct sunlight hitting the device screen at temps above 80F can exacerbate this problem, causing the device heat up faster and start throttling the CPU even faster. Antenna position is critical as are HD Link video settings. See below for details on the settings I use to get good RC signal and fluid HD Link video at distances out to 2.6 miles with stock P3Pro.

Using a sun hood protected iPad Air 2 as my mobile device, I've flown my P3P out as far as 13,820 feet (4.2 km, 2.6 miles) from Home Point using Custom channel 20 and 4 mbps Video Transmission Rate (settings on HD Image Transmission Setting menu) and had full RC signal (4-5 bars) and smooth HD Link video at that distance (and all distances in between). However, battery level was at 47%, so I had to turn around and head straight home at that point. Landed with 12% battery. I have a half dozen other flights between 7500 and 12,000 feet max. distance also without RC signal or video problems. These flights were all with previous firmware. On latest firmware I've only had one long-distance flight so far to 6100 feet from Home Point - again with full RC signal and no video problems.

These are the steps I suggest to get fluid, reliable HD Link video:

1) RC antenna parallel to one another with wide, flat sides facing the P3 Pro at all times. So, if P3 Pro will be out in front of you at some distance, the antenna should point straight up; however, if the P3 Pro will be directly overhead, antenna should point straight out parallel to ground. Proper antenna position is more important the greater the distance between the P3 Pro and the RC.
2) iPad Air 2 is protected by a sun hood (on bright sunny days) to prevent thermal shutdown due to overheating caused by direct sunlight on iPad display. Remember, if you DO experience a thermal shutdown of you iOS device, the RC is still controlling the P3 Pro; use the RC sticks to fly the P3 Pro and you can still activate RTH using the dedicated RC button.
3) Power on RC, iPad Air 2, start DJI Pilot app, and turn on P3 Pro battery. Calibrate P3 Pro compass and iPad Air 2 compass (if requested).
4) Shut down all other background running apps on iPad Air 2 except for the DJI Pilot app, of course. Do NOT use any screen recorder apps, such as Shou, as these can cause video lagging and blackouts.
5) In General Settings, turn Enable Hardware Decode ON (this is IMPORTANT). FYI - I also set Video Cache to "Recording" and Auto Cleanup Video Cache OFF, and it hasn't caused any video issues, thus far.
6) In the "HD" menu (Image Transmission Setting menu), set Channel to Custom, and watch noise graph for several minutes. Select a manual channel between 13 and 20 with the least amount of noise that also does not have any intermittent large noise spikes. 9 times out of 10, I end up using Channel 20.
7) Set Video transmission rate to lowest setting (4 MBps). This will lower HD Link live video resolution slightly, but the lower resolution is also less taxing on CPU, max. range is increased, and you can achieve higher frame rates. For video monitoring and shot setup, it's better to have high frame rate, stable HD Link video at slightly lower resolution than lower-frame rate, stuttering, pixelated, higher-resolution video.
8) Make sure the RC antenna remain facing the P3 Pro; keep changing your body position and antenna tilt, if necessary, to keep wide flat sides of antenna pointed at P3 Pro. This is more important the further the P3 Pro is from the RC.
9) Note: do not put your device in Airplane mode or shut WiFi off.
10) It does not matter in this case, but this suggest was also before the 32 channels.

*Note-The info above relates to this subject 100%. Some of the text above was copied and paste from a conversation I recently had with a friend of mine. (just being honest)

This is a masterful post. That is very interesting data about choosing a custom channel yourself. I would have hoped the DJI Automatic Option would have done this for you. So here is a magic question: Have you ever tried to see what kind of maximum range, with no issues you get using Auto vs. a Custom selected channel?? And one which I'm not sure who can answer: What are the chances that a good looking custom channel you pick before flying degrades during flight, and another one would have been superior??

I also loved your antenna position remarks, and have kind of verified that myself -- the hard way. "Verified" because I already strongly suspected it, and then forgot to DO it. Got some weakness, DID it, and everything came back fine. ONE QUESTION: I see in DJI's instructions, they have a diagram saying what you do in your antenna remarks (Could have used a better artist), but then they have another diagram for a "WEAK SIGNAL" where instead of the antenna's up, parallel and perpendicular to the P3, the tops are moved together, but still look perpendicular to the P3. And then they have some waves coming that seem to imply directionality (needed gain with the weak signal). Have you seen this diagram? If not could you look for it and let us know if you think it has any significance??

I've been using a Samsung S6 with amazingly good success, and I've kept my settings on automatic, didn't know I could turn off the recording by the cell phone and also didn't know I could reduce the data rate. OK, I GET AN F ON HOMEWORK. But I've gotten over 10,000' of range no problem, but I was out 1/2 mile the other day, dropped lower to look at a building where I work, and lost EVERYTHING INSTANTLY. No degradation just GONE. It came back after about 30 seconds on it's climb up and return to home sequence. I was quite pleased. I'm thinking I dropped down below something within my LOS (RF speaking) that was RF Opaque, and that caused by abrupt loss of signal. Comments??

Have you noticed any loss of range due to atmospheric conditions. Yesterday, I was not close to 3,000' feet up a level beach and started to get some signal degradation, but there were low clouds with wind, and hence a lot of moisture in the air. I'm figuring this wouldn't help RF transmission (The moisture). But I took it 8,000' out over the pitch black Ocean the other night at about midnight. I have some faith in that gadget by now. Or rather $1,295 worth. The view looking in was a thrill. But the air had to be moist out there and my range seemed good. EXCEPT, IT WAS PITCH BLACK, I WAS USING THE UNDERLYING MAP, AND ONLY USED MY FPV FOR A RATHER BRIEF LOOK AT SHORE. Never mind!! LOL

Please bear with this novelette for one last thought: I had a nasty experience with some paranoid neighbors a few weeks ago, where I had some suspected mechanical issue, landed on our condo grass, and they came down and STOLE it, said it had landed on their balcony while I was spying on them, the man swore at me, and they would only return it to the "Condo Board". I know the president, I've been here forever, they were vacationers, BUT THEY COULDN'T KNOW THAT. Plus I wanted to see whether my baby was injured. They then slammed the door in my face. I HAD FORGOTTEN THAT I HAD BEEN RECORDING, AND MY CELL PHONE HAD EVERYTHING!j I called the police, got a sheriff's deputy, who ironically for them, I developed some repor with while waiting from a call from them. They were at dinner. The deputy got the guy to explicitly say 2X that the "drone landed on our balcony, OUR property...And YOU LISTEN..." With smoke coming out of his ears, the deputy interrupted, "NO YOU LISTEN!! YOU'VE JUST ADDED LYING TO A POLICE OFFICER TO YOUR FELONY GRANT THEFT CHARGES. YOU ARE IN A LOT OF TROUBLE AND MAY NOT BE GOING HOME TO TEXAS ANYTIME SOON! DO WE UNDERSTAND EACH OTHER?"

My point is that having that recording on your receiving device can be a "CYA" recording. Just saying. I used the terrm ironically above, because I thought that even though I thought, and the video confirmed they were being rediculously paranoid about being spied on, I still wasn't going to press charges. BUT THE DEPUTY HAD HIS CALLS IGNORED DURING DINNER. AND THEN WAS BLATANTLY LIED TO. He was going to take them to jail. "Oh come on Mike, I think you've scared them to death, and they may never set foot into the state again." I was in a good mood I guess. But suppose I hadn't had that recording, and had just moved in here 6 months ago, and my landlord was an *****? Could have gotten ugly.
 
So I was flying today when my P3 was about 4000' feet out. I could see it out there and then my ipad air 2 showed no signal and then rebooted... I pressed the RTH button on the controler and it look like the P3 was still heading out down range. I then lost sight the the P3. I was like FU@#... am I haveing a fly away... By this time all I see on my ipad is the apple logo as it was rebooting... When the ipad was booted up I started the app back up. Now mind you have I have lost sight of the P3 and I am not hearing it. When the app started it went to a screen that said something like "flight log" or some crap like that... I had to funble around with the ipad and then I finally get the app running. It still said no signal... Then the screen flashed and I got video back... It was still like 3000' out...

Let me tell you... I have not had this type of issue with the ipad... I am NOT an apple fan but ONLY bought the ipad for the P3... This was my 2nd flight with DJI go...

Is there a way to go back to DJI pilot? If yes... where can I get the file?

If anybody wants to to post logs let me know and how to do it...


Not a happy camper at all...


My thread over on DJI's forum
DJI Forum|DJI Go SUCKS! ipad air 2 reboots mid flight??!?!!!??


someone else with the same issue
DJI Forum|iPad Air 2 reboots mid flight with new DJI Go App


also with the inspire 1
DJI Forum|iPad Air 2 reboots mid flight

I WOULD NOT have been a happy camper either. I don't know whether when the app crashes it counts as a loss of signal from the controller. Because when that happens the unit will do as you've programmed it to. RTH for me and it works. If you weren't sure, you could always turn the remote off completely. Be real sure your minimum altitude is high enough WITH SAFETY MARGIN for anything you're likely to encounter. I even keep it up at places I've flown at, but am not at the moment. JUST IN CASE I go back, and forget to set that height back up. That would be such a shame. Everything working to high tech perfection, while you plow into the side of a building. LOL
 

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