A hostile tree ran into my Phantom 1.1.1 yesterday and broke a prop guard. Nothing else. I have of course ordered a replacement set of prop guards, but would like to know if it is possible to reglue the broken guard together. If so, what kind of cement works with that plastic?
Is repairing broken prop guards possible?
- Thread starter HenryKisor
- Start date
I found them very difficult to repair. Tried using super glue (cyanoacrylate) but it doesn't bond well. Even tried reinforcing the glue joint with thread.
On the flip side, you will probably have learned to fly much better by the time you get the second set installed.
On the flip side, you will probably have learned to fly much better by the time you get the second set installed.
I glued a little one inch long wooden dowel as a "splint" to the part of the prop guard that was broken. I used ethyl cyanoacrylate, an industrial adhesive made by The Gluesmith. It will glue almost anything together, especially plastic, but also rubber, and quickly.
I used super glue to piece back together one prop guard broken in three pieces and one broken off at the central hub screwed into the end of the arm. It's working fine now?
Has anyone tried hot melt glue? I have found it sticks to almost anything. It is what I used to mount the strobe lights on the legs of my P2V.
I've used super glue to bond the pieces together, It's obviously not as strong...a hard bounce on the ground during landing can break the new joint. Especially after several reattachments after hard landings.
I was thinking about filling the underside groove with hot glue to make the guards a little more resilient. I don't think the added weight will be too detrimental. The thing I would be concerned about would be temperature, cold tends to make the hardened glue brittle and less likely to withstand an impact. It would also make it harder and less effective to super glue if it did break the plastic.
I was thinking about filling the underside groove with hot glue to make the guards a little more resilient. I don't think the added weight will be too detrimental. The thing I would be concerned about would be temperature, cold tends to make the hardened glue brittle and less likely to withstand an impact. It would also make it harder and less effective to super glue if it did break the plastic.
I've had quite a bit of experience with this, unfortunately. On three different brands of prop guards, I used Gorilla Super Glue on all and it worked great. For a good strong bond, you need to apply even pressure without moving the pieces for at least thirty seconds to one minute, then set aside in a manner where there is no stress on either part (blocking, propping up, etc.) until dry, usually I try not to touch for six to eight hours to be sure. I've done this on central and outer struts, as well as the outer curved arm and the hub, all with great success.
Good luck and remember, trees are hungry all the time...
Good luck and remember, trees are hungry all the time...
I have used the new Bondic plastic glue pen that cures with unltraviolet light. The Bondic unit really works. After curing one application in seconds, I added a second layer to reinforce the repair. Has not failed.
I have seen a pen like this on TV, but it was called LaserBond, I think. I guess they all use the same technology. So I was wondering how well it works when used sparingly. On the commercials, they seem to really gob on the junk and when it hardens under the UV light, it's quite unsightly. Sure they say it can be sanded and painted, but with most crazy glues, it just takes a tiny bit and there's usually no overrun if you're careful. So does a large amount of liquid need to be used to expose enough of it to the light, or will a small amount work as well? Thanks...
Similar threads
