How do you increase exposure time?

When I switch to manual I see where I can adjust the ISO but I see nothing that mentions shutter speed. How exactly do I do it?

Bear in mind I am completely new to photography and have no idea what ISO even means, let alone stops, and all the other settings your talking about.

If your in manual camera mode, the right thumb wheel next to the camera exposure button will change the iso, press it in and then you can adjust shutter speed


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Here is a 2 sec exposure with iso 100
 

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Quite simple. On the DJI site, they mentioned the sensors of the previous Phantoms, but will not disclose the sensor in the P4. They disclose this for the Inspire, the OSMO as well, but not for the P4. As a photographer, I'm pretty good with determining sensor quality. No, I have not done MTF analysis on it but considering I've shot with the best optical sensors on the market: (Nikon D3S, Nikon D4, D4S, current Nikon D810, and in a few hours a Nikon D500), I would say that I have an idea about how a sensor is performing and the sensor in the P4 is not that great. This is my opinion and you are welcomed to accept or not. I know what I am talking about and how to shoot and how to get the most out of any camera sensor.
Thank you for your clarification, I will stick with it's a Sony EXMOR. How good a photographer someone may be or how many cameras they might have shot with cant help with determining what sensor the P4 is using. DJI's reluctance to reveal the source of the P4 sensor is hardly proof positive of their moving to in house production. From what I have observed of DJI's past public relations and marketing if they had developed their own sensor they would be making a huge issue out of it and how big an advancement it purportedly gives them with respect to their competitors efforts. It is more likley they are hoping to play down they have continued with the same, now 3+ year old technology.
 
Thank you for your clarification, I will stick with it's a Sony EXMOR. How good a photographer someone may be or how many cameras they might have shot with cant help with determining what sensor the P4 is using. DJI's reluctance to reveal the source of the P4 sensor is hardly proof positive of their moving to in house production. From what I have observed of DJI's past public relations and marketing if they had developed their own sensor they would be making a huge issue out of it and how big an advancement it purportedly gives them with respect to their competitors efforts. It is more likley they are hoping to play down they have continued with the same, now 3+ year old technology.

Fair enough, but considering I have used different cameras with different sensors and have an idea of their performance, it is pretty easy to establish a baseline of performance. For example, my Olympus uses a different sensor than my D810, than my D500. The Nikons have a baseline performance and I can more or less have an idea how they perform. The Oly is completely different performs different. Yes, the fact DJI omitted the make of the sensor in the P4 can be interpreted in different ways, in my opinion, I think they went ultra-cheapo and decided to make their own.
 
Fair enough, but considering I have used different cameras with different sensors and have an idea of their performance, it is pretty easy to establish a baseline of performance. For example, my Olympus uses a different sensor than my D810, than my D500. The Nikons have a baseline performance and I can more or less have an idea how they perform. The Oly is completely different performs different. Yes, the fact DJI omitted the make of the sensor in the P4 can be interpreted in different ways, in my opinion, I think they went ultra-cheapo and decided to make their own.
I'm interested to see how the D500 performs, I am exited by technology and would have moved to the D810 if I hadn't invested as much in Canons L series glass over the years. It pulls the pants down on my 1 series bodies (pretty sure it sports a Sony sensor also). I also have an EM1 that I take pretty much everywhere and am impressed with it for what it is.

Apologies to all. esp the OP for taking this off track. I will try and contribute something relating to the topic.

Shoot in manual with standard settings and RAW file type with your histogram active. Limit yourself to a maximum of 3 seconds exposure and increase your ISO so that you are exposing to the right of the histogram. Often the brightest of the lights in the scene can be over exposed without detriment in the final image and this is a good general compromise to make the darker areas of the scene less noisy and with better detail. A good strategy to get cleaner final images it to shoot multiple frames and stack, align and perform a median merge in photoshop. Even 5 or 6 stacked images will give you a significant reduction in random sensor noise. If your looking to produce a reasonably sized print you can also shoot panos which will give you a higher megapixel file with less apparent issues in your print at a given size.
 
I'm interested to see how the D500 performs, I am exited by technology and would have moved to the D810 if I hadn't invested as much in Canons L series glass over the years. It pulls the pants down on my 1 series bodies (pretty sure it sports a Sony sensor also). I also have an EM1 that I take pretty much everywhere and am impressed with it for what it is.

Apologies to all. esp the OP for taking this off track. I will try and contribute something relating to the topic.

Shoot in manual with standard settings and RAW file type with your histogram active. Limit yourself to a maximum of 3 seconds exposure and increase your ISO so that you are exposing to the right of the histogram. Often the brightest of the lights in the scene can be over exposed without detriment in the final image and this is a good general compromise to make the darker areas of the scene less noisy and with better detail. A good strategy to get cleaner final images it to shoot multiple frames and stack, align and perform a median merge in photoshop. Even 5 or 6 stacked images will give you a significant reduction in random sensor noise. If your looking to produce a reasonably sized print you can also shoot panos which will give you a higher megapixel file with less apparent issues in your print at a given size.

Send me a private message and I will hook you up with my contact details, and let you know how I got along with the D500. In fact, I just traded in my EM-1 for the D500. :)

Expose to the right? Interesting. I expose to the left but that is in the DSLR world. This might be a big benefit that I have not tried while shooting at night with the drone. Good call.

For panos, use: DronePan. I just got it and have not had a time to try it so I am not sure it it will work but supposedly it is designed to create panoramas. It was originally designed for the Inspire but I think it now works for the P series drone.
 
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Send me a private message and I will hook you up with my contact details, and let you know how I got along with the D500. In fact, I just traded in my EM-1 for the D500. :)

Expose to the right? Interesting. I expose to the left but that is in the DSLR world. This might be a big benefit that I have not tried while shooting at night with the drone. Good call.

For panos, use: DronePan. I just got it and have not had a time to try it so I am not sure it it will work but supposedly it is designed to create panoramas. It was originally designed for the Inspire but I think it now works for the P series drone.
Drone pan does work with the Phantoms and works well for shooting frames for full 360 deg scenes. Litchi's pano function also works well as does autopilot. I wouldn't recommend shooting to the right generally however it is a good strategy (blown highlights are gone for good as you likely well know). In this application you want as much information in the darker areas as you can possibly resolve in post.

I appreciate your offer however I will be keeping the EM1 for a while, I picked up a metabones speedboostet to mount my Leica glass and am having a lot of fun with it.
 
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DronePan is this an additional app?
I've been shooting several pictures and stitch them in PSD if there's an automate function for pano would be great.


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DronePan is this an additional app?
I've been shooting several pictures and stitch them in PSD if there's an automate function for pano would be great.


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Yes. You fly to your intended position manually and drone pan adjusts AC yaw and gimble pitch to acquire a series of images for later stitching in the app of your choice.
 
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I find that 2 second exposures produce pretty nice shots with clarity on fixed objects. On calm nights maybe 1 out of 5 shots are pristine, like this one.


91@weir cyn night.jpg
 
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Best camera is sony a7s ii.

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Ansel Adams is quoted as saying "There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept". All you might say about the Sony camera is you think its best or perhaps you like it best. A good photographer worries less about his/her tools.
 
Ansel Adams is quoted as saying "There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept". All you might say about the Sony camera is you think its best or perhaps you like it best. A good photographer worries less about his/her tools.

i always thought a great photographer worries much about his or her tools ;)
 
Best camera is sony a7s ii


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Really? In what way is it the best? Because you have one? The menu system is a wreck. The sensor might be their best but the ones they design for Nikon out perform the sensors Sony puts in their cameras. And don't even go into DNR specs. In short, you have no clue what you're talking about.

Don't start this "xxxx camera is the best" and destroy the OP's thread, especially when you don't know what you're talking about. Start your own thread to show much you don't know.


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