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How about an amp on the bird? Anyone try this... ?

Discussion in 'Phantom 2 Vision + Mods' started by paulgrenga, Feb 10, 2015.

  1. paulgrenga

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    http://www.amazon.com/KASOTEK-Controlle ... B00M9CD1O4

    I'm thinking of trying one of these on the bird with a voltage regulator/buck converter. Honestly, I already bought it and am waiting delivery.

    Background...

    I have Tony's stage 4 kit on one P2V+. Worked great! Bird was destroyed by faulty ESC's

    On the 2nd yet undamaged P2V+ (& working off of the Stage 4 amplified concept), I'm thinking of amplifying the 5.8ghz with a 2W Sunhans and using a rh circular polarized patch antenna rather than a little yagi and either adding FPVLR's rhcp pinwheels or Neewers "equivelent" to the bird. On the repeater, I thought of leaving one OEM patch antenna in place and adding a 2.4 ghz 2W Sunhans to a circular 4 lobe antenna. On the bird, the FPVLR pinwheels on the 5.8ghz receiver. On the 2.4ghz side, one 4 lobe Ibcrazy bluebeam and a 5 lobe Ibcrazy bluebeam amplified with this little thing (see above link).

    Finally, I might try Horizon's splice method rather than destroying multiple receivers to get one clean one.

    As kids we played with HAM radio's, 2 things seemed to make the most difference then: SWR & clean TX Power. With a swr meter, cheap ferrite filters, a 250W amp, and a coat hanger we could reach southern Africa (from New York) and communicate clearly. I read much about the sacred "50 ohm" cable in all the FPV/Controller antenna posts (which seems over emphasized in the context of 2.4-5.8 ghz anyway), but I have yet to read about eliminating interference from the power sources. Why isn't that an issue?

    PS: anyone know where to get a SWR meter for 2-6ghz?

    Anyway, looking forward to your comments. Learned much from you all, thank you.
    Paul
     
  2. RudydG

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    Well, i have stage 3, and after 2 bad receiver boards, i decided to do the splice method. It works. But probably because i did it nice and clean, and maybe i do not have 100% control range (but at this moment, fpv and control go out at about the same range) 2.3Km is my limit right now;-)

    Boosters, yes maybe i will try one, but i feel the booster should be at tx site, there you have more "room", that meansn boosting the control signal at the receiver, and the wifi at the bird's site.
    But there you have limitations...
     
  3. RudydG

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    Today did 2.6km ;-)
    With stage 3. Lost control, but not Fpv!!!
     
  4. rbhamilton

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    K... the above is a 2.4ghz booster. So it could be used inside the drone to boost the 2.4ghz video and telemetry wifi signal to the WiFi extender. Just one thought - is that a unidirectional signal? I think it's bidirectional but I'm not sure. If it's a bidirectional signal, you would have to make sure this booster is bidirectional too.

    If you want to boost the control signal in the remote then this is a nice looking 5.8ghz amp. I don't think you need a bidirectional booster on the remote - the signal is one way only so far as I know but this is a bidirectional amp. Not sure how you would easily power it because it needs 12V. You would need an external battery I guess.

    http://www.amazon.com/Sunhans-802-11a-B ... B00N72QWDC
     
  5. RudydG

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    The FPV Wifi 2.4 is biderectional, i can control the bird's camera from the ground, even without switching on the controller (5.8) So there will be a benefit, from using a wifi booster on the bird. Just the weight and place... Anything extra on the bird will limit the already short flying times.
    When i flew 2.6km yesterday, my concern was getting back in time. It is cold weather here in Belgium, and the wind can be really tricky.
     
  6. paulgrenga

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    This is supposedly a bi-directional amp. I tried it. I used a buck converter and ran the power directly from the 12 volt battery connectors. I haven't seen any noticeable difference in FPV range.

    Paul