H3-3D seeing props

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Swapped out the 2D with the 3D and am enjoying steadiness of the yaw. However, when hovering with the tilt at level horizon, I can see props. Going forward even just slowly, I see the props and arms. I have to tilt down about 2 clicks to get them out of the picture. If I want them out completely when going forward, I have to tilt down even more.

I guess the camera sits back further on the 3D? I don't think there's any way around this except tilting down a few degrees but doing that really exaggerates the fish-eye effect on anything vertical and the horizon. I guess I could shoot at 2.7k and crop but my GoPro is the Silver which doesn't have 2.7.

I can't imagine the P2 that comes with the 3D has this "issue".

Do you (with the 3D on the old P2) have this? Any way to correct it? Is my only option to get a GoPro Hero3 Black and crop?
 
With the H3+ Black (unmodified) on the latest P2 with H3-3D the props only become visible on forward pitch, so I would expect the same on the old one since (as far as I'm aware) there is no structural difference except for the larger hole to accommodate the yaw gimbal.

I swapped out the GoPro lens for a longer focal length anyway, primarily to get rid of the fisheye effect which I don't think is suitable for aerial work, but it also removes all possibility of props, landing gear etc. intruding in the field of view.
 
sar104 said:
I swapped out the GoPro lens for a longer focal length anyway, primarily to get rid of the fisheye effect which I don't think is suitable for aerial work, but it also removes all possibility of props, landing gear etc. intruding in the field of view.

Link to this lens?
 
poostik said:
sar104 said:
I swapped out the GoPro lens for a longer focal length anyway, primarily to get rid of the fisheye effect which I don't think is suitable for aerial work, but it also removes all possibility of props, landing gear etc. intruding in the field of view.

Link to this lens?

http://www.ostrc.com/collections/gopro-accessories

It's a Chinese manufactured lens intended for the surveillance camera industry, and is reported to be the same item as the Ragecams 5.4 mm lens, minus the O-rings and plastic dust guard that Ragecams are now advertising - presumably to justify why they charge twice the price.
 
sar104 said:
It's a Chinese manufactured lens intended for the surveillance camera industry, and is reported to be the same item as the Ragecams 5.4 mm lens, minus the O-rings and plastic dust guard that Ragecams are now advertising - presumably to justify why they charge twice the price.

Thanks for the info.
Do you have any videos up with it in use?

I just looked up a video of someone replacing theirs. Looks a little rough, taking a wrench to your lens. I don't know if I could stomach replacing it. I'd be afraid I might break it.
 
poostik said:
sar104 said:
It's a Chinese manufactured lens intended for the surveillance camera industry, and is reported to be the same item as the Ragecams 5.4 mm lens, minus the O-rings and plastic dust guard that Ragecams are now advertising - presumably to justify why they charge twice the price.

Thanks for the info.
Do you have any videos up with it in use?

I just looked up a video of someone replacing theirs. Looks a little rough, taking a wrench to your lens. I don't know if I could stomach replacing it. I'd be afraid I might break it.

I do have some examples that I'll try to post later today, and there are also a few examples on the Ragecams website.

I saw some of those "lens replacement" videos, and they are hilariously bad. One guy even used a blowtorch. My experience was completely different, and more in line with a couple of other user reports on this website. The outer plastic sleeve is held on by three plastic spring clips - if you gently push a blunt blade or spudger between the camera body and the sleeve, and work around it, it pops off just fine with no damage at all. The stock lens has some glue on the threads to keep it from rotating (which is also why it is hard to fix the stock near-field focus). A little heat can help, but if you just leave the camera in the sun (or even in the H3-3D with everything powered up), it gets hot enough. It wasn't exactly finger tight, but I just used a small precision set of grips with tape covering the jaws to grab the outer end of the lens (avoiding the plastic clips that hold the outer sleeve), and it took very little force to unscrew.

I used a fat O-ring that seated firmly around the new lens under the plastic clips to hold the lens securely and avoid using glue or thread lock. After finding the rough focus for the new lens from the video feed, and then the precise focus with 12 MP images, the outer sleeve pushes back on and holds the entire arrangement securely.
 
damoncooper said:
Try 2.7k medium FOV.

Just got back from test flying and used that and it did eliminate the props and gear.

I need to do mainly still photos for RE phtography and am trying to find the best mode. This may be it, I have lifted a few frames and will evaluate later today.


Tom
 
sar104 said:
I saw some of those "lens replacement" videos, and they are hilariously bad. One guy even used a blowtorch.

:lol:
figures that's the first one i saw.

Thanks for the details. Makes me feel a little better about doing it. I too would like to not have such a wide angle.

For those recommending 2.7 - I have the SILVER which doesn't have that resolution :(

I may get the Black and keep and mod the Silver.
 
damoncooper said:
Try 2.7k medium FOV.
This doesn't allow you to transfer the files to a cellphone over wifi. Any other settings that keep the propellers out of the shot but also allow you to transfer files with the GoPro mobile app?
 
uscpsycho said:
damoncooper said:
Try 2.7k medium FOV.
This doesn't allow you to transfer the files to a cellphone over wifi.

You have the GoPro Wi-Fi turned on?

:eek: :eek: :eek:
 
poostik said:
sar104 said:
For those recommending 2.7 - I have the SILVER which doesn't have that resolution :(

I may get the Black and keep and mod the Silver.

In 1080/30 medium you shouldn't have issues with props.
 
poostik said:
sar104 said:
I swapped out the GoPro lens for a longer focal length anyway, primarily to get rid of the fisheye effect which I don't think is suitable for aerial work, but it also removes all possibility of props, landing gear etc. intruding in the field of view.

Link to this lens?

I have my eye on this one http://peauproductions.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122&products_id=591

Seems good, but they're US based so, as I'm in France and French customs are bar-stewards, I might have to have it shipped to a mate in Mississauga, Canada and then have him send it me as a gift.
 
EMCSQUAR said:
In 1080/30 medium you shouldn't have issues with props.

Ooh, thanks. I'll try this. I may have reset this setting to wide at some point accidentally. I just set it back now but won't have time to test it out for another day or so. Hope it works.
 
Poostick ,, did you just took off the H3-2D and insert in the same plug the H3-3D ? was it simple like that ? did you have to do any configuration in the software ?
 
manosmanoli said:
Poostick ,, did you just took off the H3-2D and insert in the same plug the H3-3D ? was it simple like that ? did you have to do any configuration in the software ?


I did a similar install to what was done in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=15152

Basically, I dremeled a hole to accommodate the 3rd rotor. Also used very small washers to give it a little more clearance for the battery.

I did not run any software update at first. I flew with 1.08 firmware and then after that, updated everything. Everything worked fine with both versions.
 
While we're on this subject, any tips for getting rid of prop shadows? I know a neutral density filter is the best solution, but what's the best way to affix it to the GoPro and the counterbalance it?
 

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