I am sorry if I am repeating something that was discovered already but... This is an IMPORTANT item and I didnt find it while searching...
PROBLEM: The H3-3D upper motor housing HITS THE BATTERY HOUSING when you slide the battery in (the camera jostles as you do this as a clue) and then it REMAINS in contact with the housing yet still spins albeit slightly stiffer than the other axes. Note that this is NOT saying it hits the PHANTOM hull as that was dealt with by cutting a round hole in the hull bottom to allow the motor top to stick up inside the P2 case a bit. I am talking about that very motor head which needs to rotate freely and which remains in physical contact with the forward end of the battery housing when its in place.
I added a 1/16" plexiglas spacer to the underside of the dampener mount and this fixed the problem. I cut it out to match the surface area that is impacted by the original mount so that there will be no vibration or resonance purchase by the mount. It is easy to consider using a small washer under each location but then you only have 4 points of contact and NO conductive dampening by the mount itself pressing against the hull and I dont know what that would do. I just wanted the entire structure to mimic the original contact as closely as possible.
Now, even though the motor would still spin when it was in contact with the battery housing, you can definitely feel the complete freedom of friction when you put the spacer in. NOW your upper motor wont burn out or hibernate on you!
Dont forget about this! The H3-3D is great, but... retrofitted for the Phantom...
Also when you put such a spacer in between the mount and the hull of the Phantom2, note that the screws will NO LONGER reach the threads with enough to matter... So, in your original box, are exactly FOUR slightly longer ones! Use those. All the same size and thankfully, its an allen wrench (hex key) head like the others. Let me know if you have questions. I have a lasercutter so I cut the spacer to match all holes etc... If you want or need one let me know. I would be happy to cut one out for you guys. Its a little give back for the help I have received here...
Let me know if I am the only one whose motor hits the battery housing. Or used to that is...
-Marc Dantonio
PS: When cutting the Phantom2 hull I am guessing others will have said this but to anyone who hasnt cut into their hull yet but NEEDS to, I highly recommend NOT using a dremel. That would be fast and quick but it would ALSO run the risk of imparting vibrations to the circuit board and all solder connections that are very different frequencies than those that the Phantom2 was likely tested through. If there are any borderline solder joints on board, that will surely find them.. Just trying to help as you all have helped me.
PROBLEM: The H3-3D upper motor housing HITS THE BATTERY HOUSING when you slide the battery in (the camera jostles as you do this as a clue) and then it REMAINS in contact with the housing yet still spins albeit slightly stiffer than the other axes. Note that this is NOT saying it hits the PHANTOM hull as that was dealt with by cutting a round hole in the hull bottom to allow the motor top to stick up inside the P2 case a bit. I am talking about that very motor head which needs to rotate freely and which remains in physical contact with the forward end of the battery housing when its in place.
I added a 1/16" plexiglas spacer to the underside of the dampener mount and this fixed the problem. I cut it out to match the surface area that is impacted by the original mount so that there will be no vibration or resonance purchase by the mount. It is easy to consider using a small washer under each location but then you only have 4 points of contact and NO conductive dampening by the mount itself pressing against the hull and I dont know what that would do. I just wanted the entire structure to mimic the original contact as closely as possible.
Now, even though the motor would still spin when it was in contact with the battery housing, you can definitely feel the complete freedom of friction when you put the spacer in. NOW your upper motor wont burn out or hibernate on you!
Dont forget about this! The H3-3D is great, but... retrofitted for the Phantom...
Also when you put such a spacer in between the mount and the hull of the Phantom2, note that the screws will NO LONGER reach the threads with enough to matter... So, in your original box, are exactly FOUR slightly longer ones! Use those. All the same size and thankfully, its an allen wrench (hex key) head like the others. Let me know if you have questions. I have a lasercutter so I cut the spacer to match all holes etc... If you want or need one let me know. I would be happy to cut one out for you guys. Its a little give back for the help I have received here...
Let me know if I am the only one whose motor hits the battery housing. Or used to that is...
-Marc Dantonio
PS: When cutting the Phantom2 hull I am guessing others will have said this but to anyone who hasnt cut into their hull yet but NEEDS to, I highly recommend NOT using a dremel. That would be fast and quick but it would ALSO run the risk of imparting vibrations to the circuit board and all solder connections that are very different frequencies than those that the Phantom2 was likely tested through. If there are any borderline solder joints on board, that will surely find them.. Just trying to help as you all have helped me.
