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GoPro settings

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by ppdrone, Dec 27, 2013.

  1. ppdrone

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    Lot's of questions as you can see....and don't even have my Phantom yet....should be arriving next week.

    What GoPro settings are you using when flying the bird?

    Please share.
     
  2. krb

    krb

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    I've been using 1080p/60fps with a medium field of view.

    One other thing I've learned the hard way is to set the camera to automatically turn off in a minute or two. The H3-2D gimbal powers/recharges the GoPro. When you power on the Phantom, the GoPro turn on. When you power off the Phantom, the GoPro stays on. While I seem to remember to stop recording, I never remember to power it off.
     
  3. CousinMadness

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    1080p/60fps medium view (this prevents rotors being in view) Render at 30fps (29.97) and it will give a smoother slower pass.

    Refrain from turning the Phantom quickly on it's axis as this causes a rolling shutter effect. It's pleasing to the eye if your skill level allows you to rotate slowly while passing your target. It is not an easy task but a video downlink would help you "see" what you are doing.

    I am a Phantom newbie myself, but a photographer for 41 years so I understand what is going on with movement.



    Martin.
     
  4. DeweyAXD

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    Martcerv has done some excellent work on this matter:

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztjLeJXNLd4[/youtube]

    I tend to use 1440 with Wide FOV especially if flying FPV without a gimbal. This gives you the maximum height so you can see what is ahead of you when pitching forward but it can be cropped down to full 1080p to remove the props. It also allows 48fps for some slow motion.

    If I am flying with the Zenmuse then I tend to go 1080p @ 60fps (only available in NTSC mode).
     
  5. havasuphoto

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    Doesn't anyone us the free Go Pro Studio software?? It automatically removes the fisheye effect-just import to "convert", go to Advanced, check the box-"remove Fisheye", and you will be rewarded with razor straight horizons-as it is specifically calibrated to the curvature of the Go Pro lenses on whatever model footage you put into it.
    These curved horizons just look terrible.

    Also, as far as "settings" go; Do you have a Zenmouse or other stabilized Gimbal? If not-shoot 1080/60 Medium, and you're done.

    With the Gimbal, I'm able to shoot jello free 24 frames per second, all the way up too 2.7K Cine. BUT, I always run my video through the Go Pro Studio software(used to be called Cineform), to remove distortion!!

    Also-I hope someday that Go Pro will come out with Manual Controls for the Go Pro!!!
    Heck-even a 52mm ND filter holder that would fit onto the GP3 Black, while it's mounted in the Zenmouse gimbal would be nice.
    Because even when shooting at 24 frames per second-you're not going to get the "film look" you think. You need an ND8 or ND400 to really cut down the light, so the shutter speed drops to around 1/50th(180 shutter rule).
     
  6. havasuphoto

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    I've done a side by side comparison, and noticed no degradation in my video's by using the Go Pro Software. When I convert, I match the size and frame rates-exactly. When I output the finished product, I also match the mb/sec to that originally shot.

    Also, 99% of all people, post their video's to Youtube-where you really just can't tell the difference anyways. Youtube's Codec Crusher will do it's best to ruin the quality of your video anyways ;)

    The Blurfix is the one I've been looking at. IF, it could fit over my GP3 Black(not plus version), with that plastic mount from the Zenmouse being so close to the lens-I'd buy it. But, I have yet to hear of anyone using it.
    Counterbalance would be very simple......just weight the filter/mount, then tape on a small piece of lead to the back of the gimbal-it wouldn't know the difference. And, I've been told that you wouldn't even need to counter-balance with the Zenmouse. However-the ND400 is a heavy filter.......so, I'm waiting for someone else to try it first.
     
  7. havasuphoto

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    Interesting-thanks for the comparison.
    Even the big corporations are using youtube now as their "source" for advertising. It's sad really-that Youtube doesn't have a better rendering engine-yet they can still host 4K video's.
    I've used Vimeo as well-and it's quality, when last checked-was miles ahead of youtube. But, it is what it is.

    The reason I de-fisheye is more of a "client" type thing.......trying to make the footage look less like it was shot by a Go Pro...if that makes sense.

    I ordered this; http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1008476-REG/snake_river_52bf3m_blurfix3_micro_52_for.html
    it's weight is a little over 4 grams. I just checked my ND400 filter(thin), and it probably weighs about the same-maybe less-it's pretty light.
    I believe Zenmouse has corrected some flaws in their latest firmware(1.60), that was causing the gimbal to fall asleep during some particular flight maneuvers, and just when it felt sleepy.
    I have yet to have it fall asleep again.....and, I can push on the start button of the go pro, without inducing "hibernation".
    So now, the question remains-IF, I use the above combination(Blurfix+52mm ND400 filter), will the Zenmouse fall asleep? It will do that to protect the motors from burning out.

    My plan is to "dry" mount this on the camera, power up the Phantom, let it find "home", then just hold it up, tilt the camera up/down, and simulate some G forces that could be experienced in a real flight setting. IF, the gimbal remains stable-then it's on to flight testing.
    However-I won't be doing this without a "good reason".....In other words, I'll have some "insurance" in the event it falls off, or damages the gimbal. This may be a 1-take situation. But, getting true 24P, with the smoothness, using a Go Pro on a Phantom, would be a "game changer".

    I've shot 24P in 1080 and 2.7K, all without any jello whatsoever. However-I really need to slow the shutter way down, otherwise the footage is useless in the "big timeline". It looks like 24P-shot at 1/1000th of a second-and that just won't work.

    Why, oh why can't the Go Pro 4, have some manual control(s)??!!!