Gopro on Vision plus and gimbal with FPV works!

Hahahaha ok! :lol:
 
M.Tigelaar, are there any differences between this and the stock setup? For example, are you still able to take photos/video via the controls in the DJI Vision app?
 
I have the same mod but using tarot2d and hero4, I love it! The only thing I'm trying to figure out is remotely taking pictures or starting stopping recording. Any idea? I wonder how the non-vision setup control their gopro
 
Welcome to the forums tigelaar. Lol.
How awesome is it to have the best of both worlds.
How awesome is it to be freed from the achillies heel vision plus camera.
 
danillll said:
I have the same mod but using tarot2d and hero4, I love it! The only thing I'm trying to figure out is remotely taking pictures or starting stopping recording. Any idea? I wonder how the non-vision setup control their gopro

This might not be the complete answer, but doesn't gopro still use a mobile app?
 
Problem is the GoPro app & remote work on 2.4ghz, the same as the Phantom Vision+ FPV. Too much risk of interference.

At the moment I just start recording + photos every 5 secs before I take off.
 
I love the GoPro but a 2 axis gimbal? Wouldn't the stock 3 axis gimbal provide more stable video?
 
lsteigerwalt said:
Is there anywhere with a guide or writeup that shows how to do this mod step by step...if its not too technical I would love taking a stab at it.

page 17 and 27
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre ... 15&page=27

Originally Posted by pitcher8811 View Post

These are pictures on how to make the modification. You will need this cable pack to make the modification. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...pack_part.html It's $8, and B&H Is a very reputable dealer. You will end up with two spare cables for whatever.

To walk you through, the first picture is the original setup. The connections are color coded. Bear in mind, these connections usually go down the front of the P2V+ and are held in place by the USB port bracket. You will need to remove the screws holding this bracket in place, and push/pull the port and bracket backward to get it loose and release all of the cables. Carefully put the port and bracket back in and screw it back down once you have the cables out. You will need to get the tip of the port into the opening in the shell before you attach the bracket and screw it in. This might be the hardest part.

The next picture shows the cables removed, with the 6 pin cable from the Wi-Fi module remaining. It is the one with the black sleeve.

The third picture shows the 6 pin cable from the Wi-Fi module plugged into the CAM port. It really only goes in one way (there are notches in the port that align with tabs on the connector), so you shouldn't need to worry about direction. Find somewhere to tuck the length of cable (or shorten it at your own risk).

The fourth picture is the extra long 8 pin cable that you will need to order plugged into the AI board. The AI board pictured comes with the H3-3D and can be screwed into the same spot as the original. Aide from connecting to the gimbal, this is the last connection you will need to make. The two pin port on the Wi-Fi module that you disconnected (blue in the original setup pic) will remain empty. The asterisk should be an "8".

The fifth picture is the extra long 8 pin cable running underneath the P2V+ to the H3-3D. I chose to run it through here because it seemed to fit well. You will need to route it over the AI board, not next to it to clear the top of the shell.

The sixth picture is just a screwdriver kit I got from Harbor Freight. It was $7 and incredibly handy. It has every precision hex, Phillips, torx, and flathead bit you could want. I just included it because it was really handy.




Hopefully this answers a lot of questions and is easy to follow. I can add more if anyone needs more help or a different angle (I have about 15 more pics, but didn't want to spend all night annotating them).

Edit: I added some more pictures. One shows the ports (2 pin SD Card from Wi-Fi module and CAM) that you will disconnect a little clearer, another points out the Zenmuse port and the CAM port, and the last shows the finished product with the .
 
I'm thinking of rebuilding my P2V+ V2: New shell, 2312 Motors, V2.1 ESCs on hand. Still thinking though, I'm new to soldering but informed via youtube . Would it be wise to use the rest of my original quad's parts for the new build? Any reason to believe the wifi , naza, receiver and power systems are faulty? (several small crashes until I killed the gimbal and bent the shell) The gimbal/gopro mod is also in thought, but not necessary at the moment because of $$. Thanks for the links BTW.
 
As mentioned by tut , there is a conflict in frequency that will most likely end up in a carsh.
I read about "rc shutter" for gopro where you can use an open servo channel to turn on and off the gopro, but this solution is also not good, for one, all channels (if u configured channel 7 for tilt) are used and turning on and off the gopro hack will stop fpv if u r not recording.

flyNfrank said:
danillll said:
I have the same mod but using tarot2d and hero4, I love it! The only thing I'm trying to figure out is remotely taking pictures or starting stopping recording. Any idea? I wonder how the non-vision setup control their gopro

This might not be the complete answer, but doesn't gopro still use a mobile app?
 
You have only picture and telemetry with android on the original app. ;)
They said with iOS you need the paid booster app if you want the picture of the gopro with telemetry. :cool:
 
danillll said:
Aside from aggressive YAW, not sure how much benefits the 3 axis brings to the table.

I thought that too and it saves a lot of money :cool:
 
M.Tigelaar said:
I thought that too and it saves a lot of money :cool:

Oh yeah, 375$ vs 120$, so u will be spending 255$ for extra one axis :) and I think the tarot is way more flexible for customizations and parts available in case something broke
 

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