I'm not real hip about having that ribbon sticking out the back of the H3-3D plate. How would this work for the earlier H3-3D's that came out without the hole on the backplate?
Get rid of the USB ribbon cable!
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DesertFlyer53 said:
That's a darn good question. I haven't played with one like that but I hope to soon, and I'll see if there's any way to put one of these in. Doesn't seem like there would be though, I didn't even realize those earlier H3-3D's didn't have a hole on the back.
OI Photography said:
The rcgroups link that IrishSights posted on the previous page of this thread shows a guy who installed this part on a gimbal without that hole in the backing plate. I can't find any info there on how he did that. Hmmm. I have a H3-2D backing plate (without the hole) that I was going to use with this part. The backing plates are interchangeable between the H3-2D and the H3-3D. Easy to do once you know how. The only difference is one has the hole and one doesn't. I would prefer to use the one without the hole to keep dirt and dust from getting into that area.
DesertFlyer53 said:
I have a busted -2D here that I wanted to do the same thing with (swap cradles) I just never got around to figuring out how. It looks like it'll simply be a matter of removing the screw under the coiled part of the ribbon cable, but removing the outer cover is as far as I've bothered with till now.
OI Photography said:
Yup. That simple. But it does take a steady hand. I've swapped that plate (cradle) back and forth several times during the process of trying to use the GoPro plug from my old H3-2D on the H3-3D. Found out that I must have screwed up the plug during the process of swapping it to the 3D, so had to put everything back. Exercise in frustration.
Hey Guys! I received my new Goodluckbuy GoPro plug last night from China and installed it today. It's was a tight fit and I had to use my Dremel tool to remove some of the plugs base material to make it fit, but I finally got it in. You do need to loosen up the 4 screws of the circuit board plate a little to make it fit. Yes, the ribbon sticks out the back of the mounting plate like OI's pictures show but I don't mind. It's doesn't look that bad. I powered everything up and IT WORKS! 
The red GoPro charging light comes on when the GoPro is off and the FPV video works to my monitor when the GoPro is on. I'm happy! The only thing I noticed is that I still have those **** horizontal white lines in the picture. Never had those with the old H3-2D. I wonder if this has to do with the interference board? I'm tempted to remove it and see what happens...
The red GoPro charging light comes on when the GoPro is off and the FPV video works to my monitor when the GoPro is on. I'm happy! The only thing I noticed is that I still have those **** horizontal white lines in the picture. Never had those with the old H3-2D. I wonder if this has to do with the interference board? I'm tempted to remove it and see what happens...Maybe a dumb question but why not just use something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/301280276952?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Pacific Barbarian said:
few reasons... the H3-3D already comes with a USB connector kind of like that which does 2 things:
1. bring video from the gopro to the gimbal, which then goes via the gimbal cable up to the Phantom mainboard where it can be tapped into for iOSD feed, etc.
2. provide power to the gopro
that cable you linked wouldn't provide power to the gopro, and there would have to be complicated patching involved to take the video signal into the iOSD mini.
basically we've already got a USB connector, the point of this thread is people trying to mod their H3-3D to a Hero port and ditch any USB connection.
I understand the gopro power.
But what do you mean by complicated patching to take video sigmal to the iOSD mini? Cant you just take the yellow and black wire to the iOSD video in connections, by soldering them onto the supplied cable that plugs into the iOSD? Or am I missing something completely here?
But what do you mean by complicated patching to take video sigmal to the iOSD mini? Cant you just take the yellow and black wire to the iOSD video in connections, by soldering them onto the supplied cable that plugs into the iOSD? Or am I missing something completely here?
OK, studied some more, I was missing something completely!
To go that route and get rid of the ribbon, I suppose this is way to go for Boscam Transmitter.
http://www.dpcav.com/xcart/Video-Cable- ... Hero3.html
To go that route and get rid of the ribbon, I suppose this is way to go for Boscam Transmitter.
http://www.dpcav.com/xcart/Video-Cable- ... Hero3.html
DesertFlyer, when you have everything powered up and the gopro is on and receiving power through the new port, does the display on the gopro look odd to you at all? When I first tested mine and at least got power through it, the little battery level icon was split in two horizontally for some reason.
Cool, I think it may have just been part of the issue(s) I was having with my gopro. I'm glad you got the new part working, that's the first confirmed report I've seen
OI Photography said:Cool, I think it may have just been part of the issue(s) I was having with my gopro. I'm glad you got the new part working, that's the first confirmed report I've seen
Cool. I've seen a few success story's with this part over on rcgroups forum. It takes some finagling but it does work.
If anyone would be good enough to do a step by step guide on youtube, or via images i would really appreciate it! Am really hamfisted when it comes to this sort of thing...............
Well mine arrived from goodluckbuy and offered it to the gopro socket..Er no that wont fit..
As tempting as it is, i do not want to force it.
Are there any more popular devices that use that type of socket so i can force feed it the new plug to test fitment?
As tempting as it is, i do not want to force it.
Are there any more popular devices that use that type of socket so i can force feed it the new plug to test fitment?
Mine was a tight fit, but it go in...have not tried it electrically (as in actually hooked it all up...). Actually, the metal shield got stuck in the GP the first time...had to carefully pull it out...Jury is still out for me...
As I said in my previous post on this thread, I had to us my Dremel tool to trim some of the material off the edge of the base of this plug to get it to fit. Wasn't hard to do if you have a Dremel tool with a sanding disc.
