GadgetGuy's Second P4 Flight Impressions
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All my P4 tests were with windsurfers to get the best results. 1.3 miles at 400 feet AGL before signal loss and RTH.
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Sounds like a problem with the FPVLR install. The firmware should have nothing to do with it. However, in answer to your question, my RC firmware on my GL300A is still 1.4.3. My TX mod was done for me by Paul at FPVCustoms.com. Did you do your own FPVLR install?
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All these modded RCs work just fine on a P3. So that's not the problem.
A few others have reported the same problems; it's probably due to the firmware. Hence: What firmware do you have on the RC?
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Sorry. I wasn't aware of that. I had just independently included the firmware version while cleaning up my post above before seeing this one. It's
1.4.3 and I have deliberately rejected the RC update, as I don't want to mess up a perfect system, using this RC, with all my P3P's with my iPad Air2 which has also not been updated for the P4.
I have not flown the P4 with any other RC than the FPVLR GL300A and the P4 included GL300C, although I did pair it and test it on a table with another stock GL300A from a deceased P3P.
What older firmware is your FPVLR modded RC on?
Hope we can get to the bottom of this, so we can all use them interchangeably!
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GadgetGuy: my GL300A and GL300B are still on 1.3.20. The signal loss every few seconds occurs even with normal antennas, so it has nothing to do with the mod.
I suppose I'll have to upgrade to 1.4.3 but I am not so for upgrading.
I will now mod my P4 controller properly, that one has the latest firmware.
You can see it on this video I made, how the video behaves. Also look at the Video signal top right at the end of the movie. This happens with any controller on 1.3.20. This is without any boosters...
Dropbox - 2016-03-22 10.13.43b.mov
Now I need to find out what the difference is between 1.3.20 and 1.4.30 on the RC. What does it add/remove? Do you know? I'm VERY wary of DJI upgrades. Also, it might be impossible to upgrade from 1.3.20 to 1.4.30; DJI might be forcing to go to 1.5.x in one go (which I suspect)...
I suppose I'll have to upgrade to 1.4.3 but I am not so for upgrading.
I will now mod my P4 controller properly, that one has the latest firmware.
You can see it on this video I made, how the video behaves. Also look at the Video signal top right at the end of the movie. This happens with any controller on 1.3.20. This is without any boosters...
Dropbox - 2016-03-22 10.13.43b.mov
Now I need to find out what the difference is between 1.3.20 and 1.4.30 on the RC. What does it add/remove? Do you know? I'm VERY wary of DJI upgrades. Also, it might be impossible to upgrade from 1.3.20 to 1.4.30; DJI might be forcing to go to 1.5.x in one go (which I suspect)...
the battery appears to be double the size of the p3 battery, with the same battery life. I won't be upgrading now
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We are of like minds! I don't trust the upgrades either, because I never know what Trojan Horse they may contain. It's not like DJI will tell you!
Is the recorded video stable, such that this glitch is just from the video feed?
I honestly don't know the differences in RC firmware versions. I do know that a W323 P3P with old motors and aircraft firmware 1.1.9 on it suddenly got reported as 1.4.3 in the app under the about section, and prior to that happening, I couldn't use my iPad Air 2 with it, but could use my iPhone 6+ with it, and it properly showed as 1.1.9 on the iPhone 6+. After the iPad Air2 "recognized" it as 1.4.3, the iPhone 6+ also sees it as 1.4.3, instead of 1.1.9, so lots of trickery is happening without .BIN files being used for updates. Be careful! I bought a separate dedicated new iPad just to use with the P4, to install the newest P4 supporting DJI GO app, so as not to screw up my perfectly working P3P's in the process. These "virus" like issues transfer through connection! I was very reluctant to even pair my FPVLR transmitter with the P4 for the same reason, but without it, the P4 is useless to me. Even with the FPVLR RC now successfully paired, the P4 still seriously needs a major battery mod using a second P4 battery!
Also be aware that pairing multiple transmitters and swapping iOS devices can inadvertently change critical toggle settings in the app without notice and sometimes even leave them visibly at the prior setting. Imperial to metric, auto v. custom chanel, the video transmission bitrate, the Continuous or Reset filenames, turning the red front LEDs off, Smart Go Home, RTH altitude, to name a few! Be careful!
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The P4 battery width is very misleading. It's wider, but significantly shorter than the P3 battery. Its almost "stubby" in its size. It's certainly not double the size, and it's only some 20% more mAH, which barely offsets the extra power consumed by all of the P4 features.
It doesn't show up in the recorded video (which is to be expected), so it definitely is a firmware problem. But I don't think I will be upgrading any old controller to a higher firmware. Don't trust DJI at all. I'll just switch my FPVLR mod to the the controller I'll be using at that moment. I also have a DBS antenna which I can attach.We are of like minds! I don't trust the upgrades either, because I never know what Trojan Horse they may contain. It's not like DJI will tell you!
Is the recorded video stable, such that this glitch is just from the video feed?
I honestly don't know the differences in RC firmware versions. I do know that a W323 P3P with old motors and aircraft firmware 1.1.9 on it suddenly got reported as 1.4.3 in the app under the about section, and prior to that happening, I couldn't use my iPad Air 2 with it, but could use my iPhone 6+ with it, and it properly showed as 1.1.9 on the iPhone 6+. After the iPad Air2 "recognized" it as 1.4.3, the iPhone 6+ also sees it as 1.4.3, instead of 1.1.9, so lots of trickery is happening without .BIN files being used for updates. Be careful! I bought a separate dedicated new iPad just to use with the P4, to install the newest P4 supporting DJI GO app, so as not to screw up my perfectly working P3P's in the process. These "virus" like issues transfer through connection! I was very reluctant to even pair my FPVLR transmitter with the P4 for the same reason, but without it, the P4 is useless to me. Even with the FPVLR RC now successfully paired, the P4 still seriously needs a major battery mod using a second P4 battery!
Also be aware that pairing multiple transmitters and swapping iOS devices can inadvertently change critical toggle settings in the app without notice and sometimes even leave them visibly at the prior setting. Imperial to metric, auto v. custom chanel, the video transmission bitrate, the Continuous or Reset filenames, turning the red front LEDs off, Smart Go Home, RTH altitude, to name a few! Be careful!
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I disagree. The difference in measured voltage of a 4%-discharged cell at normal operating temperatures is so minuscule that measurements of individual percentage points are nearly worthless. MUCH better to refuse to charge something reading as "96%" than to risk cooking the battery, even a little.
That's about what I got, 6800' and I had to stop. I started dropping video at 5800', but stopped at 6800. The whole time I was using my windsurfer setup. I noticed the video connection was the worst when the camera was facing away from me, and better when facing toward me or 90 degree left or right.
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Well, how else can you top off a battery to 100%, to try and replicate DJI's absurd 28+ minute battery time with a P4?
I'm trying to help them!
4% of 28 minutes is a full 1 minute and 7 seconds.
They need all the help they can get!
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The FPV orientation effect is likely due to which 2 legs of the 4 the video antennas are mounted in. Based upon your observations, it would seem they are in the front two legs, which would improve FPV reception only on selfies!
So this is the ultimate egotists drone! I modded my GL300C RC (that came with it), no boosters, FPVLRv2 antenna. But there was a lot of wind. Went for it anyway Flew in GPS mode without Obstacle detection, at about 20 m/s and had full control. Returned at 6757 meters or 4.2 miles. Landed with only 4% battery left, so took the right decision. Battery only lasted for 15:47 minutes! (it was a brand new one though). Outside temp 50F/10C. Average wind speed of 24mph with gusts to 39mph. Could have gone further out, for sure, if battery was better. This is in CE mode (EU).
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Well, how else can you top off a battery to 100%, to try and replicate DJI's absurd 28+ minute battery time with a P4?
I'm trying to help them!
4% of 28 minutes is a full 1 minute and 7 seconds.
They need all the help they can get!
What I'm saying is that a reported "96%" doesn't deserve to be described that precisely, it realistically could be anywhere from (arbitrary precision) 91 to 101%. There's no way to literally measure the "fullness" of a Li battery, the device simply measures output voltage, which is a good approximation, but (especially for Li batteries, especially if the battery temperature isn't known, and especially at near-full charge) is fairly imprecise.
Another flight with the P4 after couple of more battery cycles. This time I pushed bit more and fly more aggressively. Reached 24mins (started 97% and landed 9%) so I think I am getting there slowly
Long story short more battery cycles gives longer flight time regardless aggressive or calm fly.
Lipo batteries don't need to be broken in: it's urban legend.
Prolly change, however small in conditions. Could be as simple as bearings within motor assy breaking in.
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I wouldn't be promoting Horizon to make a battery mod Gadget. Are you getting 30+ min on your P3 with their mod? There's a lengthy thread here where a bunch of us are not getting advertised times. Seems that using a 3rd party battery is better. Something is not right with their product and they've pretty much bailed on us. Have a look at my thorough test findings. Horizon v-3 split power mod
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