FPVLR air side booster + rubbercomping (pics)

PlastiDip is a far heavier/thicker material than this appears to be.

If you get it in the spray can you can go about as thin as you'd like. I used it in my hard case since I got one with solid foam and cut it to customize for my needs. Sprayed the Plasti-Dip in thin coats on the foam to give it a nice rubberized finished look. Helps keep the foam from getting chewed up from taking the bird and accessories in and out.

This looks awesome on the outer shell. Wish I had the patience!


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The FCC numbers indicate A and B are the same power output, but the C version reduced it. Just like birdside 323B video is 70% of the power output of the 323, and 323A is 82% of the power output of the 323. Each new iteration has less power, designed to reduce range.

We have all seen the fcc filings , I'm interested in WTF's readings and hard #s. Actual output from the transmitter.


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We have all seen the fcc filings , I'm interested in WTF's readings and hard #s. Actual output from the transmitter.


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Ordered a power meter yesterday, as the only number that matters is the one coming from my equipment, which may differ from yours, and everyone one else's, and the specs! ;)
At $150, they aren't cheap, but they are accurate! :cool:
 
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Amazon.com: 2.4G 2W Radio Amplifier Module White for DJI Phantom Walkera 2.4G Transmit Part: Toys & Games

this is the same booster that fpvlr sells, without the BEC.

even cheaper here, but without connectors/plugs, which will allow you to solder pigtails directly to the board, or connectors if you want...
XQ-02A 2.4G 2W Dual Way Wifi Signal Amplifer Boost Module Auto Switch $12.84 Free Shipping @GoodLuckBuy.com

Its just a XQ-02A board. FPVLR has an incredible markup of like 1000%...

hobbyking, and many other places sell the same boosters. Most of the places with the bare board for $10-$11 are sold out though, Goodluckbuy seems to have the lowest price with the units in stock.

I did the same with the GoodLuckBuy board you linked.
Amazing how people rip people off and go around promoting their site like "made in America" or whatever.

So much neater and cleaner that way starting with the raw board.
Less weight. Less connector points. Cleaner signal path. Less mess.
No need for massive external antenna. (Somebody is selling that real hard out there also, for no reason, it doesn't help)
 
I did the same with the GoodLuckBuy board you linked.
Amazing how people rip people off and go around promoting their site like "made in America" or whatever.

So much neater and cleaner that way starting with the raw board.
Less weight. Less connector points. Cleaner signal path. Less mess.
No need for massive external antenna. (Somebody is selling that real hard out there also, for no reason, it doesn't help)
When you say no massive antenna do you mean wiring up the amp to the leg antenna, the one showing power out?
 
Ordered a power meter yesterday, as the only number that matters is the one coming from my equipment, which may differ from yours, and everyone one else's, and the specs! ;)
At $150, they aren't cheap, but they are accurate! :cool:
I ordered mine from AMain Hobbies and used "FEB10" for a $10 discount $139 shipped. Close enough to $150 though.
 
We have all seen the fcc filings , I'm interested in WTF's readings and hard #s. Actual output from the transmitter.


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If someone can let me know how to add pics to my "media" I'll post them. I did it once for my P3 flight but for the life of me can't repeat it.
 
Meda is for video. click the image icon next to it for...well...images.
 
When you say no massive antenna do you mean wiring up the amp to the leg antenna, the one showing power out?

Yes exactly. The raw board doesn't have Big bulky SMA connectors. So I soldered on an MMCX pigtail to reach the Lightbridge module, and then an MMCX female to plug the leg antenna into. Cleaner, neater, less weight, and those leg antennas are already very good.

image.jpeg


Available on eBay for 14 bucks
XQ-02A 2.4G 2W Dual Way Wifi Signal Amplifer Boost Module Auto Switch ge

UBEC is 5 bucks
HOBBYWING RC UBEC 5V 6V 3A Max 5A Lowest RF Noise BEC
 
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Yes exactly. The raw board doesn't have Big bulky SMA connectors. So I soldered on an MMCX pigtail to reach the Lightbridge module, and then an MMCX female to plug the leg antenna into. Cleaner, neater, less weight, and those leg antennas are already very good.

View attachment 44817
So now for the trick question......what leg? Did you find the leg with your power meter? The only power transmitting is coming from the light bridge video...No power from the bird control, correct? I was also wondering where the hell did the idea that MIMO (Maybe it was "Finding NEMO") was involved as it looks like it isn't?
 
So now for the trick question......what leg? Did you find the leg with your power meter? The only power transmitting is coming from the light bridge video...No power from the bird control, correct? I was also wondering where the hell did the idea that MIMO (Maybe it was "Finding NEMO") was involved as it looks like it isn't?

I don't think I want to get into that debate. I tested mine before I installed and I think I had the older model but I wasn't mapping everything out, I was just installing. (That whole story about Lightbridge "swapping ports" sounds like somebody covering for their own mistake if you ask me.)

Mimo talk started back with the release of Lightbridge, and DJI did describe it as functioning that way. (I can't find it either but I read about it and watched video about it and discussed it on RC Groups early on)
Testing does tell you the right leg based on output. What it doesn't tell you is if that leg is also receiving. Same on the controller. You could have single transmit and dual receive , only using the two OEM antennas. Antenna 1 would be a bidirectional radio and antenna 2 would be receive only.
 
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Yes exactly. The raw board doesn't have Big bulky SMA connectors. So I soldered on an MMCX pigtail to reach the Lightbridge module, and then an MMCX female to plug the leg antenna into. Cleaner, neater, less weight, and those leg antennas are already very good.

View attachment 44817

Available on eBay for 14 bucks
XQ-02A 2.4G 2W Dual Way Wifi Signal Amplifer Boost Module Auto Switch ge

UBEC is 5 bucks
HOBBYWING RC UBEC 5V 6V 3A Max 5A Lowest RF Noise BEC
You solder wrong connectors!The right connectors for the lightbridge unit of the P3 is ufl NOT mmcx.
 
You solder wrong connectors!The right connectors for the lightbridge unit of the P3 is ufl NOT mmcx.

Oops yes you got me on that one. :confused:
This one was made for Matrice , never installed.
I was going to install this in the controller for a stealth boosted look but never did that yet.
 
Oops yes you got me on that one. :confused:
This one was made for Matrice , never installed.
I was going to install this in the controller for a stealth boosted look but never did that yet.
I have it in my plans also to install one of those boosters inside the P3's remote and power it from the remote control's battery.
 
I have it in my plans also to install one of those boosters inside the P3's remote and power it from the remote control's battery.

This seems like the way to do it if it would work!!! I have always thought the external transmitter battery was just one more thing to forget lol


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This seems like the way to do it if it would work!!! I have always thought the external transmitter battery was just one more thing to forget lol


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It is very easy to do this.There is a big empty space inside the controller.You have to take the 7,4 volts from the controllers battery, connect an on off switch, after the switch connect a 5 volts regulator like this:Hobbywing 3A UBEC 5V 6V max 5A Lowest RF Noise BEC. Connect to this regulator the 2.4 GHZ booster.And of course don't forget to connect the rf in and out to the booster.And that's it.Your power output is going to increase to 600 mw!Of course the booster is transmitting up to 2 watts but with the very low RF driving of the P3 radio the power output is limited to 600 mw.
 
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Is there a reason you can't just have the booster come on with the transmitter ? Or do you need a switch ?


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Is there a reason you can't just have the booster come on with the transmitter ? Or do you need a switch ?


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You have to find with the multimeter the right voltage source,if there is one,i mean the 7.4 volts goes on and off from the main switch of the transmitter.I have to check it.
 
You have to find with the multimeter the right voltage source,if there is one,i mean the 7.4 volts goes on and off from the main switch of the transmitter.I have to check it.

Sorry I didn't mean the voltage regulator, I meant can you tap into the switched side of the transmitter switch and Have the booster turn on at the same time as the transmitter ? Saving a hole drilled for an extra switch and further streamlining things ?


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