Filter Use Around Water?

[aquabluedreams]

Searched the subject but could not find a specific answer or more importantly brand of filter used.

Have a Phantom 2 with Gimble and shoot mainly over water, using GoPro 3+ and getting way to much glare and blown out skies. Is there a filter that can be use that does not throw the Gimble off? Or another solution?

Thanks

 

[thongbong]

Searched the subject but could not find a specific answer or more importantly brand of filter used.

Have a Phantom 2 with Gimble and shoot mainly over water, using GoPro 3+ and getting way to much glare and blown out skies. Is there a filter that can be use that does not throw the Gimble off? Or another solution?

Thanks

You can try a polarizing filter. I'm not sure if there are any out on the market made specifically for the gopro. I've found 43mm thread filters on ebay that I've jimmy rigged on my Gopro sans Phantom. Any extra weight will throw off the gimbal by fractions relative to the weight.

 

[phantom7]

Have you seen these?

https://www.polarprofilters.com/blog/go ... s-filters/

 

[badbrad97]

Have you seen these?

https://www.polarprofilters.com/blog/go ... s-filters/

I use one of their Neutral Density filters for the naked camera when flying around water in bright sunlight. Works well. Polarizing might work well too.

 

[IrishSights]

I bought this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37mm-CPL-Circ ... 4897.l5663

About $12 equiv to £7 GBP. Just pushes on to the lense surround.

Works a treat when I'm filming Grey Seals just off the Northern Ireland coast.

I had to balance the H3-3D gimbel though. Not that hard to do.

 

[480sparky]

Silly question..... but how does one adjust (turn) the CPL (which would need to be done) while in-flight?

 

[IrishSights]

Like recording...before you takeoff, point in the direction you think you'll be filming in and set the rotation. Best that can be done. It also reduces the amount of light getting in so can help to combat jello.

Sent from Samsung S4 via Tapatalk

 

[thongbong]

I bought this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37mm-CPL-Circ ... 4897.l5663

About $12 equiv to £7 GBP. Just pushes on to the lense surround.

Works a treat when I'm filming Grey Seals just off the Northern Ireland coast.

I had to balance the H3-3D gimbel though. Not that hard to do.

Great find! Thanks.

 

[Hspain16]

I have the polarpro polarizer for the hero3,works great.Heres a video where i was using it.Only negative is its pretty easy to scratch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W16yV6 ... QnxVCkeiWA

 

[aquabluedreams]

Thanks for the input. IrishSights you mention having to "balance the H3-3D gimble" how did you do that.

Here is a bit of video I shot (very rough needs a lot of editing) and you can see how blown out the water and sky is. This is after darkening a little in FCPX.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcSkJTDTLEM[/youtube]

 

[IrishSights]

Thanks for the input. IrishSights you mention having to "balance the H3-3D gimble" how did you do that.

Here is a bit of video I shot (very rough needs a lot of editing) and you can see how blown out the water and sky is. This is after darkening a little in FCPX.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcSkJTDTLEM[/youtube]

Ill try and get a few photos or video up of how I balanced the gimbel. If you use Google site search I am pretty sure someone has already posted about it.

Most of your shots are straight into the sun so the auto exposure is trying to get an average due to the extremes.

There also seems to be a dark area towards the bottom if the screen both in the early shots into the sun and the later ones when the sun is behind you. More experts than me might want to comment if that is just the auto exposure doing its job or something else.

Sent from Samsung S4 via Tapatalk

 

[IrishSights]

Thanks for the input. IrishSights you mention having to "balance the H3-3D gimble" how did you do that...

The beauty of this hobby is the pleasure of trial and error and innovating. Here is my method of balancing the gimbel as result of adding the polarising filter - works for me.

COMPONENTS
* A rubber teat from the top of a baby milk feeding bottle
* The core of a spent 'biro' type pen, cut to size
* A small 3/8" (approx) square piece of lead for a counter weight with a hole in the middle
* The preverbial duct tape
* Small cable tie


The rubber teat gives a nice grip on the end of the gimbel. The photos explains the rest. Before I fitted the cable tie I slid the lead piece (and trimmed it a bit) up and down the pen core and also rotated the rubber teat on the gimbel end to get the optimun balance of the gopro+ lens in all positions. You can also slide the pen core up and down through the rubber teat. Trial and error. If balanced well the gimbel should stay (more or less) in the position you manually put it in - when not activated of course. When the gibel is activated if the gimbel motors are making a louder than normal noise or the 'hibernation' mode kicks in then its not balanced correctly. As weight distribution can be varied in all the necessary axis using this method, no other counter weights were needed. I used lead as the counterweight as I did not want to induce any potential magnetic interference with the compass and its a lot of weight for its size.

Works well for me over many flights now. Only slight problem is in strong winds or sharp movements where the counterweight, the very odd time, touches the leg. Minor re-positioning of the counterweight assembly minimised the problem. As it is video I have my P2 for I never do any sharp movements or acceleration anyway.

I will have to probably re-balance it when my new 5.4mm flat field/no fisheye lens arrives any day now!

Others may innovate differently!

 

[badbrad97]

Thanks for the input. IrishSights you mention having to "balance the H3-3D gimble" how did you do that.

Here is a bit of video I shot (very rough needs a lot of editing) and you can see how blown out the water and sky is. This is after darkening a little in FCPX.

What are your settings on the GoPro? Was Protune on?