Fat Shark install advice

Buk

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Received Fat Shark Predator V2 today. Would like to velcro video transmitter onto bottom of Phantom, as shown in YouTube videos. The transmitter is shrink wrapped. Was thinking glue velcro to shrink wrap. If ever a problem just removed shrink wrap and velcro. Nothing glued to transmitter.

Is this the common practice?

Thanks,
 
KEEP the shrink wrap on! (everyone does).

I used super-strong velcro,. it's stuck on pretty good!
(I had trouble peeling a portion of it off when I had to trim it for a new gimbal).

I also use some gaffers tape just to make sure in case the velcro doesn't do it's job.
 
ya, keep the shrink wrap on.
I unfortunately cut mine off and now regret it.
but I bought some battery heat shrink so I can get it back on =)
 
I use 3M command Velcro, to hold mine on. It makes it easy to remove for storage. I also use it for the Gopro, while on the gimbal.
 
Okay, I saw on YouTube someone had put velcro on the sides of the area above the flat area where the transmitter sits and ran some velcro straps from one side over the transmitter down (up) the other side, holding the transmitter in place.

I did the same, but worry about the velcro strap holding in heat. What do you think of placing, not glueing, a heat sink on top of the transmitter and hold it all in place with velcro straps.

I can see why gaffers tape was used. The uneven surface of the transmitter limits the area of contact between the two pieces of velcro.

Where did folks put that power isolation filter? Not enough room inside the battery door. Perhaps another reason to get the larger battery door.

Thanks,
 
Buk said:
Okay, I saw on YouTube someone had put velcro on the sides of the area above the flat area where the transmitter sits and ran some velcro straps from one side over the transmitter down (up) the other side, holding the transmitter in place.

I did the same, but worry about the velcro strap holding in heat. What do you think of placing, not glueing, a heat sink on top of the transmitter and hold it all in place with velcro straps.

I can see why gaffers tape was used. The uneven surface of the transmitter limits the area of contact between the two pieces of velcro.

Where did folks put that power isolation filter? Not enough room inside the battery door. Perhaps another reason to get the larger battery door.

Thanks,

I added one of these. makes things a bit easier..

http://phantomguide.com/carbon-fiber-ba ... i-phantom/
 
Buk said:
Okay, I saw on YouTube someone had put velcro on the sides of the area above the flat area where the transmitter sits and ran some velcro straps from one side over the transmitter down (up) the other side, holding the transmitter in place.

I did the same, but worry about the velcro strap holding in heat. What do you think of placing, not glueing, a heat sink on top of the transmitter and hold it all in place with velcro straps.

I can see why gaffers tape was used. The uneven surface of the transmitter limits the area of contact between the two pieces of velcro.

Where did folks put that power isolation filter? Not enough room inside the battery door. Perhaps another reason to get the larger battery door.

Thanks,

I would not put anything over the transmitter chip (the part that gets hot).

As for the door, I actually am thinking about removing it completely and using velcro to hold it in. That gives me a lot more room to run wires in/out of the phantom. Plus, my door never seems to stay shut anyways.
 
I've been doing the same thing today with the same issues. I wouldn't dare to place anything over the flat on the TX as it gets toasty warm and even with the cool air in flight it will end up melting the adhesive of velcro.

My full solution will be posted over the weekend but the TX issue resolution is what I did today to get around the 'lumpy' nature of the TX:

1) Found an old canal boat balsa wood model laying around in the garage.... light weight material, easy to work with!


2) I marked around the TX and used a dremel to route out the wood so the componenets on the base of the TX fitted


3) Final result is a bit flusher than this but enough to get a really flat base...


4) Less than a gram on the (cheap) scales.


Next.... well that will be seen tomorrow as long as the mail arrives! I am making a battery tray basically but no point describing it yet. Nothing new I'm sure but might help inspire a few Fatsharkers. I will also make it cable of twin batts but I am RIGHT on the weight limit so not sure yet.
 
I made a quicky video for those who may want some ideas on how to mount the Fatshark to the Phantom. I currently have over 50 flights with this setup, with NO issues, even running into a tree branch didn't phase it.
http://youtu.be/Z0cYQA1efmM
 
MX45OR said:
I made a quicky video for those who may want some ideas on how to mount the Fatshark to the Phantom. I currently have over 50 flights with this setup, with NO issues, even running into a tree branch didn't phase it.
http://youtu.be/Z0cYQA1efmM

Yeah I'm a big fan of sticky velcro and 3M are the best for sure. I'll probably use it under the balsa wood as well as a screw or two. The carbon batt tray that you have is $42 just for shipping over here to the UK (plus the cost of the part itself!) which is a real shame. I'll be making my own and probably a bit wider.
 
I've mounted mine as far away from the onboard electronics as possible, just like FastShark advises...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QOFQGa6KOE[/youtube]
 
Loving your work there Simon. I've seen a fair few of your vids and looked at your Shapeways stuff. I used to do 3D modelling on Rhino. Really should dig out my old version and see if it can produce compatible models on Shapeways! (what do you use? 3Dsmax?).

Back on topic... how do you find the flying characteristics with the extensions? I was testing with my make shift extension tray and found it was catching the breeze a lot more. Especially interested in how the 2 batt setup copes (must be REALLY close to 1200g with that + gimbal + Fatshark?).

Excellent work though. Keep it up!
 
Yeah man, you should - it would be great to see more custom parts made for the Phantom! I use various Autodesk programs. For this kind of work, I use Autodesk Inventor Fusion and Fusion 360. I have 3DSM, but I am on a Mac, and don't want to work multiplattorm any more (3DSM is only for PC), so I'll transition to Maya now, for doing animation stuff.

The add-on parts works really well. I don't really fly much with dual batteries, and I do not like the droopy handling of the Phantom with all that weight (I didn't bother adjusting the gains for the test I've done with dual batts, as they were mostly just time trial testing). The video I made was just to show how easy it is to mount, and how the modular design works. Here are some details from tests with dual batts I did last week:

I got just under 12 minutes hovering/light flying time, with a total weight of roughly 1250 grams.

  • Phantom
  • Simensays Foldable Landing Gear
  • QF gimbal
  • GoPro Hero3
  • LayerLens protector
  • 2 x nano-tech batteries
  • carbon props
  • + some extra wires and mounts

When first red flashes started blinking I landed it. I fear the batts are not in the best condition, but will do more tests when I get fresh packs next week. The Phantoms manage the weight ok, but I don't like how slow and droopy it feels, but I guess it works for filming. Note, I did not adjust the Low Voltage settings in the Naza Assistant before flying.

I got close to 7 min with one battery (about 1060 gr), and that was much more aggressive flying, not just hovering.

Simensays_TimeTrialsDual.jpg


Edit: right click the image and open in new window to view full size, this forum should have a filter for large images...
 
Interesting testing there. I've been playing around with various combinations of weights and i'm still not sold on the dual batt setup but until I finish the rig to hold them I can't really test it properly at a couple hundred feet. I'm guessing DJI, like any manufacturer, have put a safety factor in their 1200g max but there is no doubt it will be working the motors much harder especially up there in the winds so for the type of flying I do the results might not be great. Time will tell!
Turns out I've got Rhino 2.0 (old!) but I can export to STL so I'll get on Shapeways and see how compatible it is.
 

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