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Discussion in 'Phantom 1 Discussion' started by stevefromsd, Aug 22, 2014.
I finally had to just tape it shut. How many others have this problem?
It's been reported a few times. Iirc a lot of it has to do with how you route the battery wires and how snugly you get the door to click shut. Is the latch visibly loose no matter what? Or does it seem secure if you just close it on the ground?
On mine, the latch didn't seat tightly enough so I got out my soldering iron and heated the plastic a bit at the hinge point an bent it slightly so that the snap was firmer. Worked.
White gaffers tape does the trick for me… I have seen an oversize battery hatch offered online, and am considering ordering it.
I use a white stick on velcro strap. Can't even tell its there form a few feet away and ensures no open door issues when using oversized batteries
I have had my Phantom 1.1.1 for a few months now and I admit putting in the battery, stuffing the wires in and getting the hatch closed was hit and miss. here's what I did and have no more problems. First, take the power leads and fold them over the end of battery toward balance lead. While holding against battery, tape in place with scotch tape. This stops the thick power leads from pushing out against door, I also cut a small notch on left side of door for balance lead to stick out. This way you are not constantly bending the wires and eventually breaking them. The balance lead being out also lets me connect my fpv tx easily.
I have put a little velcro strap to hold my battery compartment closed on my Phantom V1.2. Otherwise it will pop open.
Mine never pops open. It seems as though some want to make this more complicated than it is.
I bought this one and really like it. Took forever to get, but was worth the wait.
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1110056/ ... terialId=6
I bought that one also. Cant say it seems to have made a whole lot of difference. Hard to tell.
I guess it had to make a little difference.
I will say that I still like flying my P1 more than my P3A. Maybe because of the low total cost and all the extras I added so it's somewhat a custom built rather than a store bought. Not sure, but I still like it better. Battery door and all.
If I get the chance to get another P1 v1.1.1 sub $300 I'll probably go for it.
I did try this Monte.
It does seem to help in one way. It keeps that big loop of cord away from the door.
The small draw back is that it makes it just a bit harder to maneuver the connector into the relief on the right side.
As far as the door popping open....I just gently bend the lock tab on the door up ever so slightly now and then and it seems to work as long as you don't have anything pushing hard against the door trying to force it back open.
Carysb's idea of ever so slightly heating the tab with a soldering iron to change the angle upwards just a bit might work even better. May try that.
It's just this easy............
Are you “dressing” the wires/connectors properly and battery door “tab” isn’t deformed? If that stuff checks OK you might give the shell a good once-over.
Grab the arms and flex stuff around to see if the door latch moves significantly? Make sure the top/bottom shell mating surfaces meet properly?
As long as the wires are properly tucked inside and not putting any pressure on the door I’ve performed some very aggressive flying and haven’t had a door open yet.
You don't mess around. You shove those cables in that P1 with authority. lol
I'm a bit more "strategic" when I put the battery in place and the wires.
Maybe it's just my concern for not stressing the wires.
Ok, I'll practice that maneuver for a while. Not sure I'll ever get it down that good tho.
All told tho, I wouldn't say it's ever been a problem for me. I never felt I had any trouble getting the battery and wires in....but I always thought it could be a bit easier.
I have the battery lead taped over the top of the battery so it's not constantly flexing the connection to battery. The other wires have a large enough radius to not hurt the wires. I have done it so many times I can feel if there is a bind. I did this since my first P1 I got in April 2014. I have 3 now and never had a door pop open. Works for me. When booting up the quad, I don't put battery all the way in until all lights are good. Don't want to move it then.
You know, I've never adhered to that "don't move it while it's warming up" thing.
Am I just THAT lucky?
With over 100 flights, I almost always pick it up or move it after plugging in the battery to either get the camera turned on, check the FPV transmitter, adjust the low voltage alert etc.
I've never had a problem.
Am I asking for disaster?
Hey Monte....remember when you said .......
You're lucky. I have the Phantom 1 which I believe has the same battery door. I found it a little tough to cram the power leads and balance plug in at the same time. I cut a small notch in battery door to let my balance plug to hang outside. This works well for me for when I have my fpv transmitter on the quad as I use this to power the fpv tx. When shutting the door, if it is having to be forced against the wiring pushing out, it will most likely pop open.
Yes I do. That's why I started taping my battery lead over and notched the door for the balance lead. I use it to power, headlight, fpv tx, or the small digital voltage alarms. Everything has velcro.
I did that taping trick and I think it's going to help. But from watching your video, I would almost swear my power lead is just a tad shorter, which makes it a bit harder to guide it into the battery door recess.