dirkclod
Premium Pilot
He does and knows what he's talking about . I don't think anyone could amp this argtec very easy as the amps have to be inline .
You would have to do some serious rewiring .
You would have to do some serious rewiring .
DBS vs ARGtek
- Thread starter Donis
- Start date
Just put something like this between the antenna and the support.
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I've got to say, I did the DBS, was super careful to keep the antenna (this in a P3P) and was all worried about drilling it and being able to put it back. A few things on that. First It did cost me, I had to buy another remote to put in the return box so Incoukd upgrade to the P4. So I now have the 300B modded and stock P4 remote. The one time I used the stock remote, for testing purposes, it sucked the fun right out of flying for me, and I get how ppl Are complaining about distance, it's more always having to adjust the antenna or remote to keep a good signal. I have 80-100' trees all around me, congested WiFi upscale area, golf course and a lake, both I can hit with a rock, houses all around, I can punch through and did 2400' out the other day, and I was a mile over the lake, to the other side, with 100% control and video downlink, the DBS is worth every penny, the Argtek seems gimmicky, sorry maybe it isn't, but let's see some prof instead of guys trying to make themselves feel better about the purchase they made. I was a little hard on my mod, saying I didn't think it was all that a few weeks ago, that because I had only used the mod, once I used a stock remote, I'm scared to not use it again. I was about 1000 meters thru trees and houses and lost signal for about 30 seconds, that's impressive, and about 4X the distance I'd get from stock. Oh and the "I don't want to drill, well, you don't have too anymore, I did mine before the new way was the deal, and even thought why don't they put it thru the **** holes, and almost did, and was just gonna leave it but I didn't and drilled the holes.
If I sell my remote, it won't be stock, it's worth a lot more modded, so what's the point there? And looks, here's a pic of both my remote and antenna and with them in the stock P4 case that I plasti-dipped and use, I dare you to say my remote is ugly, it's not, had the upgraded cables, Killer DBS mod, and upgraded the bracket, it's never going to be stock again, that's not why we mod things to make them worse, but better, sure I guess if I was gonna put those Argtek on, I would want to be able to change it, to an Itlite that is.
Ok all kidding aside because I was a little, if it really is showing real improvement then post real findings, if not, tell the truth, like I said, I was kinda hard on the Itlite at first, don't be that guy who gives a great review due to buyers remorse issues, I just don't see the hard work going into them, the Itlite was designed over extensive testing, I feel Argtek is just making money, I may be wrong, if they're awesome then we should all get them!
Here's a DBS modded remote that makes my P4 a blast and everyday I go a little further, I have 237,000 feet traveled off one battery, wait till my other two arrive Tuesday!
Mike which coax cable is that. Is it the one that's seen in the photo? I was able to fly over 1000 meters but after firmware update I can only go up to 200 meters in an open area. If it is the cable on the photo it seems it is fitted ok. Do I need to remove the glue to check?
Actually it is not a photo from my RC I just Google it. But mine seems to be connected. The video is OK it is only the signal loss. And RTH starts in 200 meters
dirkclod
Premium Pilot
The single cable seen at the lower left in the photo is your 5.8GHz controller coax and fitting that runs to the external antenna on the front center your controller. The ufl fitting is not seated correctly. Carefully remove the white 'glue' and remove the cable from the board. Inspect the fittings and make sure the 'wings' on the coax side weren't bent inward from the last attempt. Then, carefully place the coax ufl fitting directly on top of the board side and push straight down, firmly. You should feel the coax side seat onto the board. check the connection by being able to easily turn the coax parallel or horizontal to the board without lifting up. It should stay attached. Be careful not to lift or twist on the connection as it will put stress on the board.
The other two coax cables are the 2.4GHz cables that lead to the internal pucks inside the controller.
Good luck. I used liquid electrical tape, GB brand found at Home Depot, to re-glue the coax down. Let it dry good undisturbed over night.
After reading the other posts, I see this is not your unit. My error for not looking first.
I doubt this is a mechanical issue if you were flying to 1000m prior to the update. Have you tried to re-bind the AC to your controller?
I doubt this is a mechanical issue if you were flying to 1000m prior to the update. Have you tried to re-bind the AC to your controller?
Yes i have rebind the RC but no success. There should be something else. I will check the cable connections again according to @Mike's Bird instructions. Hope there will be a solution.
That is 100% not fully on
Sorry read further not your pic.
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Can you take a very close pic of it. Its hard to see it and its hard to see at that angle
I just installed a ARGTEK kit on my 3 4K. Not impressed so far. My longest flight with stock was just over 2600 ft. I was not able to go beyond 1200ft after the swap.
When I went over the spec's for just the standard antennas it is listed as 1200m for range and the spec's for the AGK is 1000m.
When I went over the spec's for just the standard antennas it is listed as 1200m for range and the spec's for the AGK is 1000m.
The longest I ever got with my stock was some where around 1100 feet So if you are getting 2600 ft stock that's pretty **** good. My average is usually 700-800 feet.
That's what I thought . When I get a chance I will post the flight log. I am going to try the same flight path with the ARG.
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