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Connecting Controller to Computer via USB

Discussion in 'Phantom 2 Vision Discussion' started by mduehmig, Dec 23, 2013.

  1. mduehmig

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    All- I appreciate your patience with some basic questions I've posted here. I really only post on things that, obvious or not, really stump me.

    I am attempting to install the DJI Driver Installer and a dialog box pops up asking "Is the main controller is powered up and attached to the PC via USB cable?" I know how to attach the PV2 to the computer, but I can not find any USB connection on the controller (except for the mini USB on the WIFI Range Extender). How do I attach the controller to the computer??

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. gunslinger

    gunslinger Moderator
    Staff Member

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    You, apparently, don't have one of the newer controllers. The new ones have an external USB connector. If you just purchased it, you probably have old stock. Where'd you buy it? There's some great documentation on here that explains the process. It entails taking apart your controller (Transmitter/or TX) I'll dig it up and be back...

    -slinger
     
  3. gunslinger

    gunslinger Moderator
    Staff Member

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    This post will square you away...

    viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4394&hilit=usb+tx

    If you have any more questions, there are a lot of people on here who are very capable of getting you the answers...

    -slinger
     
  4. mduehmig

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    Gunslinger- You're a life saver! I got the PV2 from "ALL e RC" on Amazon. They screwed up the shipping and had to ship another to get it delivered before I left on a trip. They have been a mess. Should have done B&H….

    Look forward to seeing the fix!

    And just to confirm, I install the driver to the controller first? And then I plug in the PV2 and run the Vision Assistant?

    Thanks again!
     
  5. Pull_Up

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    If you are loading drivers then the software is referring to the flight controller, not the "remote controller" - more properly called the transmitter. It basically means "have you turned on the aircraft and plugged it in"? That way the driver will register the aircraft as a valid device once you load it up.

    You should have the transmitter turned on before you fire up the Vision for safety in any event, and one you have the Vision Assistant launched then you can see that the transmitter is calibrated correctly and what firmware versions you have.

    If you do need to update your transmitter using the RC Assistant (a specific bit of software for updating the transmitter firmware) then and you will need to have the transmitter plugged in via USB - as gunslinger has said if you can't see a usb port on the outside, then it's time to break out the screwdriver, I'm afraid.
     
  6. goinup

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    The controller's mini-USB port is INSIDE (I know, sounds stupid for DJI to do that, but whatever...) Loosen the 4 screws that hold it together, and carefullly (you can break wires!) take it apart to access the mini usb port. This is outlined in one of the DJI sites/how to You tube vids, can't remember. The controller has to be powered on for the computer to "see" it.
     
  7. mduehmig

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    You got it PullUp. I was calling the remote controller the flight controller. Newbee mistake. I was able to get it updated once I realized I had it hooked up correctly. I DO have the updated airframe with the USB connection in front.

    Thanks all!
     
  8. garygid

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    I opened the RC Transmitter, wanting to just find out if it needed updating.
    The 4 philips screws are the easy part, although mine were REALLY in tight,
    a bit unnecessarily tight, I think.

    BEFORE removing the back, carefully observe how the antenna is oriented
    in its plastic ring collar. Note that there is a half-circumference notch
    in the back side of the collar, and that the antenna is allowed to swivel
    only 180 degrees in that collar.

    THEN, if you MIGHT want to cut a small hole to permanently install a
    USB cable, then marking the potential exit point now is a good idea,
    while the front and back parts of the case are still mated. You can
    read about my choice of exit point below.

    Getting the back separated from the front at the plastic ring around the
    base of the antenna mount was much more difficult, but some gentle wiggling
    eventually got the back out from under that collar.

    Connecting a micro-USB cable was easy, but I decided to do the add-a-cable
    modification while it was open. Since my white USB cable was about 2 feet long,
    and I wanted to maintain its integrity, I routed it as follows in the top (looking at
    the guts... the circuit board, the backside of the two spring-return joysticks, and
    the backside of the 2 switches):

    Plug into the circuit board and route the cable up toward the antenna, turning right
    to go between the S2 switch and the white mounting post there. Continue
    down along the side between the joystick assembly and the side of the case,
    getting the cable down below the joystick wiring. Then, down to the bottom
    of the case, going between the lower right mount and the case, across the
    bottom of the case, around the lower left mount, and up the left side between
    the joystick assembly and the case, and turning right to go between the
    upper left mounting post and the S1 switch. All that to use up some of the cable length.

    Still looking at the back of the front half of the controller, I decided to cut
    a small U-shaped notch in the edge of the case, about an inch away from
    the antenna, near the curve in the case (closer to the S2 switch), to use to exit
    the remaining cable from the Transmitter.

    I cut a shallow notch in the front of the case, since it was more difficult
    to work on, just cutting the mating flange, and not really into the main
    thickness of the case.

    I cut a deeper, but mating, notch in the back of the case, through the flange
    and into the thick part of the case, so that the cable, when snuggly in the
    U-notch, would be almost even with the top edge of the flange. However,
    to make a snug fit when assembled, a tiny bit of the cable diameter
    was still not down into the "U".
     
  9. mduehmig

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    Wow Gary, your last post ought to be a a post of its own, or in a How To section. Thanks for the info!
     
  10. Studiowise

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    "a picture is worth a thousand words" Frederick R. Barnard :D
     
  11. garygid

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    If I open it up again, I will try and get some useful pictures, but one
    needs good closeup focus and sufficient light, and a way to get the
    pictures online. However, I knew, when it was done and tested, that
    I should have taken some revealing pictutes.

    It is like much of life...
    where a picture or video would have captured a precious moment,
    but many of us older folks have to rely upon a jumble of neural jello
    to store the now-fuzzy images of times that we wish that we
    could still remember.

    Oh, darling, how I try to remember... our good times together.