Cheap battery on Bang Good

Hi all,
A little education from the traditional RC Community.

All LiPos are not created equal and quality can very greatly. Plus I have not seen mention of one of the key features DJI builds into their intelligent batteries that I'm pretty sure no other 3rd party to date is doing as was evident by one of the previous write ups (Heaters, read below).

Education:
C Rating - LiPos have what is called a C rating (higher better) which basically equates to their ability to discharge current at a rate high enough to get the work done. As batteries age this C rating goes down faster with poor quality batteries and your flight time goes down but even worse the ability for your Quad Copter to respond sags.
Cell Balance - When battery packs are built cells are matched in good quality batteries so they discharge at a constant rate and their voltages will not very by more than a 0.1V average. This insures none of the cells are stressed more than another which can lead to a premature death of the entire pack (1 bad overly discharged cell basically kills the entire pack.) Phantom 2 packs had 3 cells; our new Phantom 3 packs have 4 cells providing for another chance of cell failure.
Temperature - The colder a LiPo cell is the less "capacity" to discharge it will have. We in the traditional RC keep our LiPos in our pockets during the winter to keep them warmed by our body until we use them to fly.
Storage - It is known that a LiPo stored with a full charge for a long time will degrade the internal chemistry of the battery and reduce it's C rating prematurely.
Charging - A 1hr charge time is basically a 1C charge rate which provides the healthiest way to charge a battery. Slower is even better which is what our P3S chargers provide. There is also balance charging that insures each individual cell reaches full charge together so no one cell is over charged (which can very easily lead to a battery fire that does not go out when splashed with water; seriously [We've had LiPo car fires at the field; I store my LiPos in an ammo case to protect my house during non-use]). Temperature of the battery during charging should be considered (all things I believe DJI's charging circuitry does but as we have read someone had a third party battery that reported an overcharged state and then proceeded to die (which luckily did not result in a fire).

3rd party batteries may work fine...

Hear is where I think they differ right now:
- These are all smart batteries. They track charge counts. If a DJI battery dies (and obviously the DJI Go app does tell you not to use it anymore [your choice to ignore]; DJI will replace it under warranty based on the stored use data. You get their great warranty for the extra $$ and therefore a replacement battery.

- DJI clearly balance charges each cell. Since the charger is built in, other brands appear to not balance charge (per a previous post). Buy a premium brand 3rd party.

- DJI discharges automatically for long term storage, other 3rd party batteries do not (Make sure you leave the battery discharged after a flight if you don't plan to use it in the next 10days.

- Not saying DJI does not have bumps and the road has been paved with silk, but I believe that as I see the advances DJI has taken in building their battery designs I will be spending the extra for the OEM battery and gain their warranty to protect my investment.

I expect them to last longer or be replaced under warranty.
I appreciate the long term storage automatic discharge for better longterm battery health.
I appreciate the expectation that if there is a fatal battery failure with no pre-warning that DJI will stand behind their product (yes I know of a case).
I have $500 in the air with my P3S and don't feel like having it fall out of the sky without warning, no warranty to protect my investment because I used a non-DJI battery and the possibility of it causing damage to personal property (yes, chicken little).

It's not worth the difference in cost to me (risk).

3rd party batteries may work as good, better, or worse. We have already seen cases of the third party battery not updating firmware, being overcharged (with it's own internal charger), and even if it seems fine now the battery could still fail well before it's rated life because the quality is not there and you won't know until late in the game.

Bottom line, all batteries are not the same. All the smart technology wrapped around the battery (balance charging, auto discharging, temp sensing, ...) is not the same or even missing. C rating of cells being enough, balance matching the cells of the final pack, a healthy longevity of the packs, ability to self discharge for better longevity, ...

Your choice. I understand cost can be a differentiating factor. Be Safe. OEM DJI for me.
 
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Hi all,
A little education from the traditional RC Community.

All LiPos are not created equal and quality can very greatly. Plus I have not seen mention of one of the key features DJI builds into their intelligent batteries that I'm pretty sure no other 3rd party to date is doing as was evident by one of the previous write ups (Heaters, read below).

Education:
C Rating - LiPos have what is called a C rating (higher better) which basically equates to their ability to discharge current at a rate high enough to get the work done. As batteries age this C rating goes down faster with poor quality batteries and your flight time goes down but even worse the ability for your Quad Copter to respond sags.
Cell Balance - When battery packs are built cells are matched in good quality batteries so they discharge at a constant rate and their voltages will not very by more than a 0.1V average. This insures none of the cells are stressed more than another which can lead to a premature death of the entire pack (1 bad overly discharged cell basically kills the entire pack.) Phantom 2 packs had 3 cells; our new Phantom 3 packs have 4 cells providing for another chance of cell failure.
Temperature - The colder a LiPo cell is the less "capacity" to discharge it will have. We in the traditional RC keep our LiPos in our pockets during the winter to keep them warmed by our body until we use them to fly.
Storage - It is known that a LiPo stored with a full charge for a long time will degrade the internal chemistry of the battery and reduce it's C rating prematurely.
Charging - A 1hr charge time is basically a 1C charge rate which provides the healthiest way to charge a battery. There is also balance charging that insures each individual cell reaches full charge together so no one cell is over charged (which can very easily lead to a battery fire that does not go out when splashed with water; seriously [We've had LiPo car fires at the field; I store my LiPos in an ammo case to protect my house during non-use]). Temperature of the battery during charging should be considered (all things I believe DJI's charging circuitry does but as we have read someone had a third party battery that reported an overcharged state and then proceeded to die (which luckily did not result in a fire).

3rd party batteries may work fine...

Hear is where I think they differ right now:
- These are all smart batteries. They track charge counts. If a DJI battery dies (and obviously the DJI Go app does tell you not to use it anymore [your choice to ignore]; DJI will replace it under warranty based on the stored use data. You get their great warranty for the extra $$ and therefore a replacement battery.
- Cold Weather, The DJI battery has an internal heater to warm the battery in cold climate flying to prevent premature damage to the battery and increase flight time in cold weather to what you would expect. I have already received a battery too cold warning and letting it warm, the battery functioned as expected. I think it is this heater that DJI also uses to slowly discharge the battery after it hits the storage discharge time so it is not degreed during long periods of non-use. Other third party batteries (as has been commented) do not have the discharge capability and therefore I draw the conclusion they also do not have an internal heater. Maybe also why the 3rd party batteries are cheaper.
-
Not saying DJI does not have bumps and the road has been paved with silk, but I believe that as I see the advances DJI has taken in building their battery designs I will be spending the extra for the OEM battery.

I expect them to last longer or be replaced under warranty.
I fly in the cold and appreciate the heated battery technology for long flights and healthier long term batteries.
I appreciate the long term storage automatic discharge for better longterm battery health.
I appreciate the expectation that if there is a fatal battery failure with no pre-warning that DJI will stand behind their product (yes I know of cases).
I have $500 in the air with my P3S and don't feel like having it fall out of the sky without warning, no warranty to protect my investment because I used a non-DJI battery and the possibility of it causing damage to personal property (yes chicken little).

It's not worth the difference in cost to me (risk).

3rd party batteries may work as good, better, or worse. We have already seen cases of the third party battery not updating firmware, being overcharged (with it's own internal charger), and even if it seems fine now the battery could still fail well before it's rated life because the quality is not there and you won't know until late in the game.

Bottom line, all batteries are not the same. All the smart technology wrapped around the battery (chargers, heaters, temp sensing, ...) is not the same or even missing. C rating of cells being enough, balance matching the cells of the final pack, healthy longevity quality of the packs, ability to self discharge for better longevity, ...

Your choice. Be Safe. OEM DJI for me.

I would be interested to see any info on this "heater". I have seen a few teardowns, but no mention of this heater. Maybe fpvlr who is using a torn down p3 battery for a dual battery mod can tell us more, but I don't know where there is any mention of a heater. Also if there was a heater each cell would need one to avoid heating one cell more than the other. Lipo's heat up in the process of discharging, I think that the auto discharge is more than likely the cause of any heat, and once it's plugged into your AC there is a draw which causes some heat.

If you have any actual info regarding a heater I would love to see it though, but I'm guessing this is all speculation.


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Well ? I have learnt a lot after reading this information about our dji batteries, the (Warming up) which comes up on my dji go app where it says( safe to go) since updating firmware, when I first get ready to fly in cold weather 1C now (to cold for me never mind the P3,?) I understand what it means now (built in heater) great, thanks D Myers for the info, it will make my think when buying another battery,
 
Very interesting post with lots of well-organized info - thanks! So the stock batteries have a heater built into them. Is this what causes them to warm up during flight? I assumed it was the chemical reaction of the discharge. Where did you learn about the heater? Do you have any links which discusses the heater? Thanks again.
 
Yes drawing current out of the battery at a high rate will auto warm the battery. If 1C charging is the equivalent of 1hr to full charge (it is), than a 20 minute flight is drawing current out at 3C. That is pretty light duty for today's battery technology and is not going to generate much heat. In traditional RC I have planes that last a scant 5minute flight and we are running 30C batteries in them to get the performance we want (3D aerobatics). Those batteries come out warm. They're hot if they are not performing well to the 30C rating because they are being asked to work harder then they want to. (It comes down to internal resistance.)
 
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I will find the reference to the heater. I read about it before purchasing the P3S. Yes drawing current out of the battery at a high rate will auto warm the battery. If 1C charging is the equivalent of 1hr to full charge (it is), than a 20 minute flight is drawing current out at 3C. That is pretty light duty for today's battery technology and is not going to generate much heat. In traditional RC I have planes that last a scant 5minute flight and we are running 30C batteries in them to get the performance we want (3D aerobatics). Those batteries come out warm. They're hot if they are not performing well to the 30C rating because they are being asked to work harder then they want to. (It comes down to internal resistance.)

When the IMU is warming up that is in reference to the internal equipment (barometer / Gps/ etc) not the battery.
I still haven't ever heard or seen anything in regards to a battery heater built in & still don't think there is one.

If you are referring to the message in the photo below, that is a safety message reminding you to warm the battery up to within the safe operating range before flight , it does not mean that a heater has been activated inside the battery. I'm not trying to argue or anything I just have not ever heard this heater idea before and don't think it makes sense, but I would like to be proved wrong if I am.
71af2ea246d0528c247343fccaeb6201.jpg



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Understood and agree that the warmup message is referring to the electronics stabilizing and calibrating and not the battery itself.

Will look for the reference later tonight and will update my post if I am unable to locate it again.

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Understood and agree that the warmup message is referring to the electronics stabilizing and calibrating and not the battery itself.

Will look for the reference later tonight and will update my post if I am unable to locate it again.

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Don't take it the wrong way but why would DJI be selling standalone battery heaters for the smart batteries if they had one built in? You must have read some misinformation or maybe someone was confused and thought the standalone battery heaters had something to do with the p3 internals.

There is definitely NOT a battery heater in these batteries as far as I am concerned. The heat generated is by the draw / chemical reaction inside the cells. As for the smart discharge feature this is due to the smart "brain" part of the battery located in the cap applying a small load to the battery to slowly use power until the battery is in the safe to store charge range.


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Since we can find DJI p3 bats for about $125 it does not seem the $97 price tag is all that good for a non DJI
 
In Canada the price is $210 - 240 Canadian dollars .. Or $135 Canadian for the clone.
It's worth it to experiment in my opinion, I know it's not for everyone but I'm giving it a shot! I'll use it in my advanced until I'm comfortable putting it in my pro


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@D Myers , do you use Thunderpower, Flightpower or Pulse batteries in your airframes? Your post would seem to indicate experience & knowledge and with LiPo's and their characteristics.

That said, I used to buy TP and FP batteries for my electric heli's and planks. A single 7S/25C 5000 mAh battery used to be $350. That is until Hobby King entered the market. Now, a battery with higher discharge rating, more capacity and lighter weight is $66. $80 Thunderpower 3S/2200mAh/25C are less than $12 now. My chargers show their internal resistance equal to the name brands. Can't speak for longevity yet as I can only really fly from April - October here in Upstate NY and haven't worn any out.

My point is there are other aftermarket batteries that are good, or better than the stock batteries included with some aircraft. Most are less expensive. I've listed some examples below. There is simply not enough examples yet of aftermarket battery success in the P3's, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. We need more reports. Also, fortunately or unfortunately, I have my three DJI batteries and do not have a need for any more OEM or aftermarket packs.

2200mAh 3S 11.1V 25C LiPo Battery | HorizonHobby

ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 25C

ZIPPY Compact 2200mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack

SD
 
Thanks for the info SD!!! I also have 3 batteries between two p3's so I ordered one of the banggood clones ... There will be a little bit of a wait though since it's coming from China !! Lol but I'm excited to see how it Holds up !!


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Evening all,
Spent some time looking for that reference to the internal heater and have not found the direct reference I thought I had read when I first was researching AP Camera platforms. I updated my post above to pull out all the references to "heaters". Aside from that I hope the other information is useful for those thinking through it for themselves. I hope there are some premium brand alternatives in the future that are more affordable than the OEM; I'm not convinced we are there yet or that there is enough data compiled to show such.

@Solar Deity Yes I have flown Thunder Power & Pulse (not Flight Power) and have plenty of Turnigy batteries. Both Thunder Power & Pulse are premium brands that cost extra $$ for the quality... (for a reason). Turnigy is not a bad pack either, but far from premium and does not put up with the same abuse I put some of my aircraft through. Turnigy is also about 1/3 the price of the premium packs. Big difference is, I can dead stick a plane in by gliding it and autorotate my heli in if the pack drops out before expected. Multi-Rotors drop out of the sky when their props stop. I can afford to drop my 3D printed Tri-Copter out of the sky and print new parts; I'm not about to do that with my Phantom 3.

I'll wait for an affordable premium Phantom pack before I buy my third battery. Maybe LimeFuel will get to making a pack or one of these other premium companies with a track record.

I look forward to the testing P3P is going to perform. Best luck and look forward to your results. Wish we could chart the internal cell resistance of the battery over a bunch of flights; that would tell us a lot about the quality of at least that pack.
 
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I have some bad news D Meyers,
I was also hoping that limefuel would step up to the plate and make us a reliable / quality battery like they did for my p2.
I emailed them a few days ago and heard back from them, they said they will not be making any batteries for the phantom 3.
I asked if it was planned in the future or if there was a reason, I just got told essentially that they won't be doing it and they are not interested in doing it in the future. It was kind of a let down but I'm hoping this clone I ordered will hold up as decently as the DJI ones do (which isn't a hard task)

e9de71d6a585aa20af77b9d472022cfb.jpg



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@D Myers , do you use Thunderpower, Flightpower or Pulse batteries in your airframes? Your post would seem to indicate experience & knowledge and with LiPo's and their characteristics.

That said, I used to buy TP and FP batteries for my electric heli's and planks. A single 7S/25C 5000 mAh battery used to be $350. That is until Hobby King entered the market. Now, a battery with higher discharge rating, more capacity and lighter weight is $66. $80 Thunderpower 3S/2200mAh/25C are less than $12 now. My chargers show their internal resistance equal to the name brands. Can't speak for longevity yet as I can only really fly from April - October here in Upstate NY and haven't worn any out.

My point is there are other aftermarket batteries that are good, or better than the stock batteries included with some aircraft. Most are less expensive. I've listed some examples below. There is simply not enough examples yet of aftermarket battery success in the P3's, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. We need more reports. Also, fortunately or unfortunately, I have my three DJI batteries and do not have a need for any more OEM or aftermarket packs.

2200mAh 3S 11.1V 25C LiPo Battery | HorizonHobby

ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 25C

ZIPPY Compact 2200mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack

SD
Like this one made in northern England
 
Thanks with the update Mr Myers & p3p Canada, O well regarding the heater its keep in your pocket for warming up when cold ? 0c here at moment, to cold for me 2, hope the copy batt, p3p proves fine, regarding the ordinary lipo,s we have a good (British battery) here in UK called Overlander made a bit different than the Chinese ones,
 

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Thanks with the update Mr Myers & p3p Canada, O well regarding the heater its keep in your pocket for warming up when cold ? 0c here at moment, to cold for me 2, hope the copy batt, p3p proves fine, regarding the ordinary lipo,s we have a good (British battery) here in UK called Overlander made a bit different than the Chinese ones,

I have an overlander charger and it's just a Chinese charger with a overlander sticker stuck on it.

Are the overlander lipo batteries rebadged?
 
Just as a general practice with the regular LiPos we have for our hobby, I suggest you purchase a charger with an IR (internal resistance) meter built in or a stand alone IR meter (Turnigy makes a half descent one). With it you can measure the true C rating of the battery and monitor it as it ages. You want to measure it both when full charged and when discharged. Good quality LiPos will maintain their C ratings across the entire discharge range while cheap or dieing packs will show a drop in C rating. This is where a "soft" feeling comes from as you get towards the end of the pack.


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