Can you fly a phantom 4 with a phantom 3 pro remote controller ?

[markbiatreh]

Hello everybody, I've came across the dji phantom 4 and it was being sold without the remote or the charger. I do have 2 phantom three pro drones, and so I was wondering if I could use the phantom 3 remote controller for the phantom 4 standard model. Thank you so much and I can't wait to hear back from you


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots

 

[hotashes]

Yes I currently do this, on the back of the controllers there are codes beginning with GL300.... is yours A, B or C? I use GL300A on my P4.


U.K. Side pushing the Phantom 4. Peace

 

[AerialTouch]

My P4 came with a GL300C controller stock. Can confirm that one works...



Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots

 

[John Locke]

You can control the P4 with a P3 controller, however the MODE switch will be labeled wrong. The switch still works properly, but the PSA switch actually says PAF. Just relabel it if you can't remember what it should say. The only other problem you may have is the Go app won't tell you what version firmware is in the craft when you query the ABOUT section of the Go app. Lastly, and most important, you may have problems updating the firmware in the P4 using the P3 controller. If that happens you can use the Digital Assistant app from DJI on your PC to update the P4 craft firmware. If you are in the US, you'll actually get better range using a GL300A or GL300B controller with your P4. I fly with a GL658A Inspire controller for that very reason, because the GL300C that comes with the P4 is anemic, it's the weakest Lightbridge controller that DJI has made to date.

 

[hotashes]

My P4 came with a GL300C controller stock. Can confirm that one works...



Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots

Yes the C will work no problems, as will A and B. Don't quote me but I believe the GL300C gives the less power offering least chance to achieve maximum distance. (Of course there is rule of thumb that we are supposed to keep LOS (line of sight) of the drone). Also I have a good idea that controllers ending in B (not sure if all DJI controllers or just P3 series and P4) were formed from plastic that seemed to be fragile(I.e the antenna thread etc. So as I believe the GL300A had more power output (bare in mind there is restrictions by CAA via GPS) and the P4 reduces the power of any controller to stock power when connected. I chose the GL300A for my own needs as I have modified (currently doing) my controller to get better distance on the drone.




U.K. Side pushing the Phantom 4. Peace

 

[hotashes]

You can control the P4 with a P3 controller, however the MODE switch will be labeled wrong. The switch still work properly, but the PSA switch actually says PAF. Just relabel it if you can't remember what it should say. The only other problem you may have it the Go app won't tell you what version firmware is in the craft when you query the ABOUT section of the Go app. Lastly, and most important, you may have problems updating the firmware in the P4 using the P3 controller. If that happens you can use the Digital Assistant app from DJI on your PC to update the P4 craft firmware. If you are in the US, you'll actually get better range using a GL300A or GL300B controller with your P4. I fly with a GL658A Inspire controller for that very reason, because the GL300C that comes with the P4 is anemic, it's the weakest Lightbridge controller that DJI has made to date.

Just one of the knowledgable people I got my advice. Of course I still make mistakes [emoji106]


U.K. Side pushing the Phantom 4. Peace

 

[ricphoto]

Hello everybody, I've came across the dji phantom 4 and it was being sold without the remote or the charger. I do have 2 phantom three pro drones, and so I was wondering if I could use the phantom 3 remote controller for the phantom 4 standard model. Thank you so much and I can't wait to hear back from you


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots

No remote and no charger? Hmmmm sounds like someone "found" a drone that got away from it's owner...

 

[ClaudioNC]

Does the same thing can be applied to Phantom 4 Pro Plus?
Can the aircraft be linked and controlled with RC of Phantom 3 Pro (GL300), or Inspire 1 Pro (GL658)?

 

[Nexus0105]

Does the same thing can be applied to Phantom 4 Pro Plus?
Can the aircraft be linked and controlled with RC of Phantom 3 Pro (GL300), or Inspire 1 Pro (GL658)?

No. The P4P+ use 5.8Gz

 

[ClaudioNC]

Not true!
It uses both the frequencies, switchable in the list of the app, also 2.4 Ghz. (not Gz!).
Why are you saying this Nexus0105?

 

[Nexus0105]

Mmm, I jumped to conclusions, apologies. Still not sure it will work though.

 

[ClaudioNC]

Hal, I guess they sabotaged your heuristic algorithmic.
You have to be switched off, sorry!

 

[jephoto]

You can control the P4 with a P3 controller, however the MODE switch will be labeled wrong. The switch still works properly, but the PSA switch actually says PAF. Just relabel it if you can't remember what it should say. The only other problem you may have is the Go app won't tell you what version firmware is in the craft when you query the ABOUT section of the Go app. Lastly, and most important, you may have problems updating the firmware in the P4 using the P3 controller. If that happens you can use the Digital Assistant app from DJI on your PC to update the P4 craft firmware. If you are in the US, you'll actually get better range using a GL300A or GL300B controller with your P4. I fly with a GL658A Inspire controller for that very reason, because the GL300C that comes with the P4 is anemic, it's the weakest Lightbridge controller that DJI has made to date.

How much is the Inspire controller by itself?

 

[John Locke]

How much is the Inspire controller by itself?

EBAY, under $200

 

[Rob65]

You can control the P4 with a P3 controller, however the MODE switch will be labeled wrong. The switch still works properly, but the PSA switch actually says PAF. Just relabel it if you can't remember what it should say. The only other problem you may have is the Go app won't tell you what version firmware is in the craft when you query the ABOUT section of the Go app. Lastly, and most important, you may have problems updating the firmware in the P4 using the P3 controller. If that happens you can use the Digital Assistant app from DJI on your PC to update the P4 craft firmware. If you are in the US, you'll actually get better range using a GL300A or GL300B controller with your P4. I fly with a GL658A Inspire controller for that very reason, because the GL300C that comes with the P4 is anemic, it's the weakest Lightbridge controller that DJI has made to date.

Hi John,
Can I assume that if I were to use my GL300A with my P4, how do you do the firmware transfer as it is currently loaded with the P3P firmware? Will the P4 firmware over write or override the P3P firmware. I am considering doing this as I have both GL300A and the GL300C of which is currently linked and was sold with the P4. Any advice prior to my attempting this would be reassuring. I will also start a new thread so as to get your attention.

 

[John Locke]

Hi John,
Can I assume that if I were to use my GL300A with my P4, how do you do the firmware transfer as it is currently loaded with the P3P firmware? Will the P4 firmware over write or override the P3P firmware. I am considering doing this as I have both GL300A and the GL300C of which is currently linked and was sold with the P4. Any advice prior to my attempting this would be reassuring. I will also start a new thread so as to get your attention.

The P3P controller (GL300A) will always be a P3P controller with P3P firmware. It's identified as a P3P controller when connected to the DJI via internet through the app. I don't recommend messing with the firmware to gain compatibility with the P4, it may not be required.

I haven't used GL300A with my P4 yet, I use the GL658A Inspire RC with my P4. Here's what I would expect you to see with a GL300A linked to a P4. When you start the Go app with the GL300A with the craft OFF, the app will show a P3P craft, because it's connected to a P3P controller. When the P4 is linked to that GL300A, when you turn on the P4 you will notice the app will see it and switch from P3P to the P4 portion of the GO app. You may need "like vintage" apps and firmware to be compatible. IE, if you have old firmware in the GL300A, and brand new firmware in the P4, you might have problems. I'm not saying you will have problems with old and new mismatched firmware, but I've never tried that, and it wouldn't surprise me if there's issues. Especially if you have the new app with the new P4P features (tripod mode, etc), using that with old craft firmware, you may have issues. I would never expect these compatibility issues to risk the flight integrity of the craft, so feel confident that isn't a risk. The incompatibility would be new app features in the app not working, or some other anomaly.

For starters, simply link the craft to the controller without changing any firmware. With props off, start up the craft motors at home and rev the motors like you're taking off. Make sure it appears to be OK with the camera linking and showing a video feed.

I do not recommend updating firmware unless you absolutely have to, as that may introduce other unwanted problems. Try linking only and see how that works. You can always relink the craft back to the GL300C if it doesn't work out. And as stated before, if for some reason you have to update the firmware in the craft, you'll need to relink the craft to the GL300C to accomplish that, as the GL300A will unlikely facilitate that task (that's what I have to so with my GL658A). But... as I mentioned, resist updating firmware to avoid the nanny state. On the other hand, if you have the most recent firmware already installed, and the most recent app, things should work fine.

There are ways to back-rev firmware, but I've never done it. You can google that if interested. DJI doesn't not support back rev of firmware, but hackers have figured it out and have an archive of firmware out there you can get.

 

[Damo31k]

You can control the P4 with a P3 controller, however the MODE switch will be labeled wrong. The switch still works properly, but the PSA switch actually says PAF. Just relabel it if you can't remember what it should say. The only other problem you may have is the Go app won't tell you what version firmware is in the craft when you query the ABOUT section of the Go app. Lastly, and most important, you may have problems updating the firmware in the P4 using the P3 controller. If that happens you can use the Digital Assistant app from DJI on your PC to update the P4 craft firmware. If you are in the US, you'll actually get better range using a GL300A or GL300B controller with your P4. I fly with a GL658A Inspire controller for that very reason, because the GL300C that comes with the P4 is anemic, it's the weakest Lightbridge controller that DJI has made to date.

Hello i live in uk my gl300c gives me around 4 miles each range test flight one time i had just over 4 miles so when you say weak signal what exactly does this mean thanks i see 4 miles as a lkng range for a standard p4

The P3P controller (GL300A) will always be a P3P controller with P3P firmware. It's identified as a P3P controller when connected to the DJI via internet through the app. I don't recommend messing with the firmware to gain compatibility with the P4, it may not be required.

I haven't used GL300A with my P4 yet, I use the GL658A Inspire RC with my P4. Here's what I would expect you to see with a GL300A linked to a P4. When you start the Go app with the GL300A with the craft OFF, the app will show a P3P craft, because it's connected to a P3P controller. When the P4 is linked to that GL300A, when you turn on the P4 you will notice the app will see it and switch from P3P to the P4 portion of the GO app. You may need "like vintage" apps and firmware to be compatible. IE, if you have old firmware in the GL300A, and brand new firmware in the P4, you might have problems. I'm not saying you will have problems with old and new mismatched firmware, but I've never tried that, and it wouldn't surprise me if there's issues. Especially if you have the new app with the new P4P features (tripod mode, etc), using that with old craft firmware, you may have issues. I would never expect these compatibility issues to risk the flight integrity of the craft, so feel confident that isn't a risk. The incompatibility would be new app features in the app not working, or some other anomaly.

For starters, simply link the craft to the controller without changing any firmware. With props off, start up the craft motors at home and rev the motors like you're taking off. Make sure it appears to be OK with the camera linking and showing a video feed.

I do not recommend updating firmware unless you absolutely have to, as that may introduce other unwanted problems. Try linking only and see how that works. You can always relink the craft back to the GL300C if it doesn't work out. And as stated before, if for some reason you have to update the firmware in the craft, you'll need to relink the craft to the GL300C to accomplish that, as the GL300A will unlikely facilitate that task (that's what I have to so with my GL658A). But... as I mentioned, resist updating firmware to avoid the nanny state. On the other hand, if you have the most recent firmware already installed, and the most recent app, things should work fine.

There are ways to back-rev firmware, but I've never done it. You can google that if interested. DJI doesn't not support back rev of firmware, but hackers have figured it out and have an archive of firmware out there you can get.

 

[John Locke]

Hello i live in uk my gl300c gives me around 4 miles each range test flight one time i had just over 4 miles so when you say weak signal what exactly does this mean thanks i see 4 miles as a lkng range for a standard p4

For a P4, it's highly unusual for CE controllers to get 4mi range, you're very lucky. Is this with or without windsurfer? Itelite antenna? CE compliant controllers (UK GPS locations) are inherently weaker than FCC (USA) compliant controllers. If I measure the output of the GL300C (FCC) here in the US when connected to a P4, using an RF meter, compare that to a P3P (FCC), there's about 23% less signal strength with GL300C vs GL300A, and about 50% less than GL658A. I've read that most UK pilots don't get anything close to what you're getting for range, so keep doing what you're doing.

 

[Rob65]

The P3P controller (GL300A) will always be a P3P controller with P3P firmware. It's identified as a P3P controller when connected to the DJI via internet through the app. I don't recommend messing with the firmware to gain compatibility with the P4, it may not be required.

I haven't used GL300A with my P4 yet, I use the GL658A Inspire RC with my P4. Here's what I would expect you to see with a GL300A linked to a P4. When you start the Go app with the GL300A with the craft OFF, the app will show a P3P craft, because it's connected to a P3P controller. When the P4 is linked to that GL300A, when you turn on the P4 you will notice the app will see it and switch from P3P to the P4 portion of the GO app. You may need "like vintage" apps and firmware to be compatible. IE, if you have old firmware in the GL300A, and brand new firmware in the P4, you might have problems. I'm not saying you will have problems with old and new mismatched firmware, but I've never tried that, and it wouldn't surprise me if there's issues. Especially if you have the new app with the new P4P features (tripod mode, etc), using that with old craft firmware, you may have issues. I would never expect these compatibility issues to risk the flight integrity of the craft, so feel confident that isn't a risk. The incompatibility would be new app features in the app not working, or some other anomaly.

For starters, simply link the craft to the controller without changing any firmware. With props off, start up the craft motors at home and rev the motors like you're taking off. Make sure it appears to be OK with the camera linking and showing a video feed.

I do not recommend updating firmware unless you absolutely have to, as that may introduce other unwanted problems. Try linking only and see how that works. You can always relink the craft back to the GL300C if it doesn't work out. And as stated before, if for some reason you have to update the firmware in the craft, you'll need to relink the craft to the GL300C to accomplish that, as the GL300A will unlikely facilitate that task (that's what I have to so with my GL658A). But... as I mentioned, resist updating firmware to avoid the nanny state. On the other hand, if you have the most recent firmware already installed, and the most recent app, things should work fine.

There are ways to back-rev firmware, but I've never done it. You can google that if interested. DJI doesn't not support back rev of firmware, but hackers have figured it out and have an archive of firmware out there you can get.

Hi John,
Thank you so much for this indepth explanation on how too. I will do what you recommended and test but it will have to wait until next week as I am currently away from the drone. regards Rob

 

[Mitchp4p]

Compare;

Phantom 4 Transmitter

Operating Frequency 2.400 - 2.483 GHz
Max Transmission Distance FCC Compliant: 3.1 mi (5 km)
CE Compliant: 2.2 mi (3.5 km)
(Unobstructed, free of interference)
Operating Temperature Range 32° to 104°F (0° to 40°C)
Battery 6000 mAh LiPo 2S
Transmitter Power (EIRP)
FCC: 23 dBm
CE: 17 dBm
MIC: 17 dBm


Phantom 3 Pro Transmitter

Operating Frequency 2.400 - 2.483 GHz
Max Transmission Distance FCC Compliant: 3.1 mi (5 km)
CE Compliant: 2.2 mi (3.5 km)
(Unobstructed, free of interference)
Operating Temperature Range 32° to 104°F (0° to 40°C)
Battery 6000 mAh LiPo 2S
Transmitter Power (EIRP)
FCC: 20 dBm
CE: 16 dBm
MIC: 16 dBm